Projects Introducing the Roofus Special

looking good! Cant wait to see it on the ground.

 

Speaking of on the ground, I played with front end pieces too....trying to figure out what my upper control arms might look like. I did a comparison of front spindle relative to the bottom of the car and the current rear "ride height". ...the front is about 2.5 to 3 inches lower (spindle higher). It ought to be fun trying to make this crazy mismatch of parts sit right.

 

I put a vacation day request in for this Friday. I'm gonna work on it again this weekend.

The pieces are finally falling into place. Hopefully I will have motor mounts after this trip.

 

The 6'5" boy doesn't fit quite as well as my daughter did, but nobody can resist the chance to make racecar noises.






The goal for the weekend was motor mounts.
First I needed to figure out what the motor would attach to. Before I could do that, I needed to figure out exactly where the steering would be....
I started with a brace from the firewall cop car brace to the front crossmember.




then thought about going from that diagonal to the front framerail swoop




I buzzed in the diagonal and added a brace to that


The steering crosses from the outside (at the column) to the inside (at the rack). I neede to figure out where the middle shft is going to be.






I cut apart a Toyota four runner steering sector (partially to see how it was put together)




I made an adapter bushing to match up the splined section I needed to the crush section








The bushing started out as a 1.25" collar that I ground down to 1"


trial fit before welding

 

bzzzzzzz


I have steering!


still a lot of decisions to be made on how the whole underhood bracing will tie together.....
Started on the other side


not a whole lotta room next to the oil filter


I didn't get around to motor mounts...too much basketball watching.

 

2012 Redneck Rumble. I want to see you there driving the Roofus Special.
You can do it I know you can.

 

You might ant to get a support bearing that will slip over the steering shaft and mount it on that diagonal brace. Would be easy since the u-joint between the shafts bolts on to both shafts.

 

I'm not real sure if I'm happy with angling the front braces out to the outer frame rail like this:

I kinda think they need to go to a radiator hoop or something.

 

I don't really do all that well with meeting deadlines, but it would be nice to make some real progress this summer.

 

If the braces are going to be covered by the hood I wouldn't worry about them. Looks like they could extend to the front crossmember if you want them to be straight. IIRC the grille shell you intend to use extends forward enough to cover them if you do that.

 

After studying the pictures for a few days....I really don't like the look of having a horizontal piece going from the diagonal to the arch of the front framerail. Also the motor mount attachment point needs to be lower on the frame.

 

I took a second swing at motor mounts this weekend. trying to use the factory jag mounting scheme wasn't working for me. I think the mounts need to be lower.

Inside the frame rail, just behind the x-brace is where I'm thinking for the frame pad.


more posterboard




couldn't tell crap with posterbaord. I needed metal.

more recycled WWII dodge 4x4 ambulance turned hunting buggy. This was a rear fender.


set free with fire


found something round to add shape


first look


second look (bolted down)


other side






My plan was to tie the two sides together with a brace that would run under the oil pan. The top section looks like it will be flimsy no mater what.

Add gussets to the outside too? (mounting bolt would go down through the gold colored tube)




Not really sure these parts will be used either.

 

I wouldn't put gussets on the side with that tube brace in the center. The tube will carry all the weight. As long as that metal is about 1/16" thick you should be fine just like it is.

 

Also considering gusseting between the tube and the curved piece and the vertical tube would be cut down to 1/2 height.

 

That won't hurt flipper, but the way the angled tube is welded in the tube carries 100% of the load. The curved flat plat could be cut out with just a flat on each end of the tube without affecting strength at all. I'd leave it just for looks though. A gusset between the tube and plate WILL stiffen/strengthen the tube, of course.

 

How about rolling the edges or running a bead(round rod) on the outer edges & eliminate the tube?

 

Why not have both? It dress it up a bit and you can never have too much support for that jag motor. Farnas right though, the tube will carry the weight so make sure its a good weld.

 

I really want flanges around the eges, but have had a hard time figuring out where they could/should go. ....the mounting bolts are in the way!

Anybody got an idea for a better shaped mount?

 

Fun Thread.....now i am late for work !

 

Great thread, enjoying the buildup. I would say keep the mounts as you have them now, add a gusset between the tube and curved metal with some vanity holes cut in the gusset for visuals. Also really really hope you keep with the idea of leaving the transmission exposed.

 

I hope to get a chance to work on it over the long weekend. It would be great to get the motor mounted and the car slid forward on the table so that the front suspension area could overhang the table .....maybe start installing front suspension?

 

The small tube gusset wasn't cutting it. I needed to do something more substantial, but not super heavy. I also decided the mounts needed upper biscuits.

I wanted a flange to go around the buscuit, but didn't have the right size tube...so I made my own. ...from cop car kick panels.

I started by making a strip of flat stock.


wrapped around a piece of roll bar tube


it worked!


Now that I had a better idea what I was making, I cleaned up the end




time for sheetmetal gussets






the top bolt hole was the hard part to figure out. I sleeved it and then cut the sleeve down.





I welded the circles first (welds under the big gusset)


and added speed holes


socket fits great on the top bolt


with a rubber

 

Now the other side.

The passenger side mount is shorter due to the engine offset (more foot room for me). I had to cram things closer to get it all to fit. hammer time!

 

Now to give it something to bolt to






trimmed to sit on the X-brace




test fit






did the same thing for the other side


I now have a mounted motor!

 

Now to test out my idea for using the Ford leafspring. I have no idea what sort of spring rate this car actually needs.

I bolted it to the crossmember and let the ends rest on the control arms




too high and this thing was solid as shit! The weight of the jag and my fat ass on the crossmember didn't hardly budge it!

pull out a bunch of leaves


better


but still not much movement. you think the rust has any thing to do with that? ...duh!



I cleaned up the leaves and greased everything up (and pulled one more leaf). ...lots better!




I added some of the removed leaves to the bottom of the pack to raise the pack (lower the car)






close enough until the car gets more weight. I'm sure I will have to fine tune it some more.

 

The engine mounts look real good! The shackles on the ends of the spring will bring it back up an inch or two, but the lower arms should have a slight down angle with no one in the car. Should be about level (I'd still like just a slight down angle) with two passengers sitting in it -- tow your size to level the lower arms. Then you really need at least two inches of up/down travel (four inches altogether) -- three (six total) would be better!! Add a short rubber bumper to the frame where the spring can bottom out. You may need to notch the bottom of the rails a little, at least into the recessed flange, but you have room.

 

After bouncing the car on the front spring, it sure was hard to not set it on the ground and bounce it on both ends.

Before I get too carried away, I need to flip it over and weld the bottom sides of a lot of the joints.

 

Somebody on another site questioned my test of the spring rate. Do y'all have any input on the subject?

 

From another forum

So this spring will hold less weight with a-arms than it would with a straight axle?

That just seems strange.

 

Having a hard time deciding on if I should take the rusty truck to the Bunny Run or work on Roofus.

.....I really need/want to do both.