I pulled these plugs from my car is it running lean? Sent from my SM-G920W8 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
It's not running way too rich...probably pretty close to where it should be. But they sure are strange looking plugs.
They're e3 s I've been experimenting new parts and I ended up with the carb that nobody in the planet recognises (too old) we bought a 69 impala with a 350 and we know not a thing about it Sent from my SM-G920W8 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Should I do some fine tuning ? Adjust a few things here and there ? You seem to be the only guy that isn't being a douche lol ^ Sent from my SM-G920W8 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
I don't know how it's running, you can only tell so much looking at spark plugs (and I apparently can't tell as much as some folks can!) If you have some indication that it's not running right, like it's surging at cruising speed, sneezing when you open the throttle, or stuff like that, maybe you need to tinker. You didn't mention anything, so I ***ume it's running ok?
and yeah, some guys here are kind of hard on new folks, especially when they start out by showing us something that's not really part of traditional hot rodding, which is what this forum is all about.
Like Jim said, they look pretty close to what you'd like to see. Is this after some in town driving or were they run for a while at highway speeds? Are you just running pump gas? A couple plugs seem to have a distinct yellow color on the ground electrodes, but this may just be the lighting in the picture. A yellowish deposit used to indicate a fuel with a high sulphur content, but modern gas blends use little or no sulphur anymore. Years ago Shell gasoline used to leave plugs looking that way.
Car seems to be running great no issues what so ever but could retard the timing a little but the car is cammed but runs a little rough on idle driving seems to be perfect Sent from my SM-G920W8 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Do a bit of reading on the Internet about the E3 spark plug. You may decide to choose a conventional plug if you replace them. The colour doesn't look too lean
I'm 16 this is my first car just curious and poking around on the Internet haven't experienced rich or lean looking plugs in my high school auto shop and I actually switched from ngk iridiums I used the e3 conversion chart on their website but the ngks were fouling every drive spitting and sputtering so I swapped them out to the equivalent e3 plugs runs amazing and has more power than the ngk now was just curious if it's running leaner than usual Sent from my SM-G920W8 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'd tear a strip off you....... but you say your 16. So I tip my hat to you for turning a wrench and asking and learning. Keep at it.
Plug color looks just fine. The roughness at idle may well be the cam.What type of cam is it? Do you by chance have the cam card giving the cam specs? I would try doing a compression and leakdown test and check carefully for air leaks around the carb and manifold .If you have a points distributor I would check to be certain the point gap is correct and in any case that the cap,rotor and plug wires are good.In other words do a good,careful tune up and inspection before you do anything else.Good luck.
Thanks for all the help guys the car was running so bad because the electric choke wire was on by a thread lol stupid little things set you back anyhow I'm buying a rebuild kit for the carb God knows how long it's been since a good cleaning looks like a whole lot of sludge from 87 gas Sent from my SM-G920W8 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Listen man don't let these guys get your goat about those E3 plugs. While I have never owned a set nor even seen a set go with what works for you. As to what is written on the net, or doing a search on the net, welllll that needs to be taken with a grain of salt as well. I mean it is after all the inter-net, if you believe all the **** written there you are starting off two steps behind in the beginning. Also if you are trying ( and I am not saying you are) to get a performance read off of those plugs to help with the tune. The pictures you are showing do "NO" good what so ever for that purpose. To read the plugs for that purpose you need to look at the bottom third of the porcelain down inside the plug. You will need a purpose built tool that not only magnifies but illuminates the inside of that part of the plug to get the correct read. You also will need to do the reading of the plugs after making a full throttle p*** and shutting the engine off immediately. If you drive the car or let it idle you change the plug so that you cannot get an accurate read.
Glad to see another 16-year-old interested in cars! Congratulations! Anytime you purchase an older vehicle, good idea to check things out: For engine running purposes: (1) Compression test (2) Ignition tune-up (3) Fuel delivery system check But even more important to check brakes, exhaust, and tires. As to the E-3 plugs, they probably are not as good as the hype might have you believe (the extra ground terminals tend to shroud the spark more than a conventional plug); and probably not as bad as some might have you believe. I do not remember any manufacturer using them as standard equipment. If they were really as good as the hype, some of the manufacturers would use them in their performance models. But they DO function; since you have them, no need to replace until they actually fail. If an engine is running very lean, the car will lurch while cruising. Not bad, but it won't be really smooth. And the exhaust often smells like rotten eggs. Also, a lean engine will generally run hotter than normal. Reading plugs is an art. After 60 years playing with vehicles, I still cannot really do it well; but as Hombre stated above: If you are going to try, it must be done by running the engine with load at wide open throttle and killing the engine while at wide open throttle. Any other condition will influence the condition of the plugs. Also, just read your comments on 87 octane fuel. MANY engines are designed for 87 octane fuel. Do not believe you will get better performance by using high octane if your engine was not designed for high octane. This link may help: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Octane.htm Again, glad to have a 16-year-old with us. Welcome to the hobby, and invite your friends. Jon.
Back in the dark ages when I was about 16 I sat through a training cl*** put on by Champion Spark Plugs at a NHRA National meet. Basically he showed how to tell by the color of the porcelain around the electrode how to tell if you had the proper heat range for your tune. The mistake people make is getting ready for the test. Let's say you want to know if the engine is running lean/rich at a certain speed. You need to put in a fresh set of plugs then run the engine under load at that speed for about five miles then immediately put it in neutral and shut off the engine. Coast to the side of the road and pull the plugs for a reading. Other than having access to a dyno it is the only accurate way to read the plug heat range. I agree with Jim, a set of AC R45TS plugs will get any SBC down the road, cheaply.
The AC plugs with a T in the part number won't work on the 1969 and earlier heads, though Make sure you get the ones that match, early heads use a gasket type plug (R45), 70 and later heads use a tapered seat plug (R45TS). the S means it's an extended tip plug, which is not so important one way or the other.
Could removing the plugs from a HOT engine cause thread damage? I know it's not a good thing to do with aluminum heads. dyllon: Be sure and put a dab of anti-seize compound on your spark plug threads to prevent seizing, galling and difficult removal.
I've never used anti seize on plugs in iron heads, and never had a problem. But I don't use those funky modern stainless steel plugs, either....I might be temped to use the goop with them....
Dyllon, Not to be another ****, but your entire car doesn't meet this forum's rules. This is a great place, but the members get uptight when you stray from the flock. As for your plugs--- the saying goes "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". Good luck to ya and congrats on your interest in old cars.
Squirrel, Oh no! GOOP isn't for plug threads. You will find that adding just a dab plug threads is a real plus.
Looks like his only possible issue was running a bit odd at idle and he solved it with his choke wire grounding out on a bolt it seems. Though I had to laugh when you said no one knew what kind of carb it was because its to old. Your car is a new car to most of us, did you figure out what the carb is? If not post a photo. ~ loop hole around your car being outside of the forums year cut off is just don't mention what vehicle it's in. Trouble shooting a small block in a muscle car is the same as if it were in a 30's car
Um, I wouldn't call a small block Impala a muscle car, just sayin' (my first car was a red '68 Impala with a 350), not to mention the avatar....
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