Technical Is there any coating that is impervious to brake fluid?

That makes it easier, no flushing required.

 

I have been using this product:
https://lucasoil.com/products/problem-solvers-utility/synthetic-brake-fluid-dot-3-4
Not silicone, its is synthetic.
I have dot 3 in my Comet with Baer brakes all the way around, works great and does not seem to eat paint.

 

It'll leak right through that

 

You Sir are a prophet.

 

If you are used to a firm pedal; silicone fluid may take getting used to.

 

Paper? No flushing?

Did we change the subject?
I should pay better attention.

 

I am pretty sure rust is impervious to brake fluid.

It's also traditional.

 

All brake fluid is “synthetic”

I find modern catalysed paints aren’t bothered much by brake fluid if it’s cleaned up right away.

 

Not mentioned but Imron paint but it was the best paint I ever found in an industrial application. It was used on cars but it could kill you in the booth.

 

Rust sucks. I'm not a patina guy...

 

I dont know how a chrome plater would be able to keep the bore in tolerance, obviously they make it work.
I would think that a freshly chromed master could be bored and sleeved by a place like White Post restoration.

 

Not generally a problem because plating won't go into holes unless special fixturing is done.

 

If your pedal feel is any different than conventional fluid than you have air in the system. Silicone fluid is difficult to bleed, it is very easy to end up with air in the system. You cannot pump the pedal during the bleeding process like you would do with conventional fluid. You have to be very gentle with the pedal or use a vacuum pump at the wheel cylinders or have a dedicated pressure bleeder to get good results.

 

Honestly, I am a creature of habit. I doubt I will convert. It would be easier for me to just plate the MC.

 

I happen to have a couple of qts of Imron black, so last week I shot the brake and clutch masters with it, hoping that it is a tough as its reputation. The seat frame, riser and probably the grille gars and bumpers will get the same treatment. 56 Dodge 1/2t

 

When I inherited my dad's 55 Tbird, I discovered he had put a note on the master cylinder that said, "Silicone Brake Fluid Only." The car had the original single-circuit master and drum brakes. The brakes functioned as well as any non power-assisted drum brakes, and I had no complaints about pedal feel.

 

I have never owned anything that had DOT5 that I know of. I'm sure it is good stuff, but I have a lot of crap running the old stuff.

 

Worked for a fellow in Michigan who had a water blasting business doing work mostly for GM cleaning out their paint booths at the Lordstown, OH plant, the truck plant in Flint, MI and the Camaro/Firebird plant in Van Nuys, CA. Extremely high-pressure, high-volume pumping units throwing a 3/16" stream of water out of the nozzle at 8500-10,000 PSI. You could saw right through a telephone pole in under 8 seconds. I built the trailers for these units and painted them with Imron. The Imron withstood accidental direct hits from the water blaster, having hoses and equipment loaded time and time again and contact with other equipment as the units were moved from location to location. Really tough stuff. I reckon it will hold up to your brake fluid.

 

I’m afraid that the Imron everyone remembers is long gone. Last time I checked they had converted to a bc/cc.

 

Well, that just sucks!

 

I have used the Eastwood paint on 2 vehicles and am very happy with it.
I didn't have my pressure bleeder on tight and made a mess on one of them. Cleaned it off w/ brakleen and the paint looks fine. Only comes in cast color though.

 

To me; it has always appeared that brake fluid migrated under the edge of the paint at the cap or cover and spread destruction from there.

 

Unless it’s a race car…the positives of silicone far outweigh the negatives. Zero issues with paint damage for the win.

 

Maybe the fluid was different back in olden times. We did three cars with a jug of silicone fluid from the Deuce Factory when it was the new hot thing, all simple systems, four wheel drums and a fruit jar single master. All had that tiny bit of softness at first touch. While we didn't have those whiz bang vacuum suckers and wouldn't even think to invest in dedicated pressure ball; I could bleed brakes. Back then it was noted that the fluid was slightly compressible. Maybe the current stuff is different.

 

Fortunately (for me) the Imron I'm using on the 54 that I mentioned earlier is old stuff. Old enough that the hardener is in a qt rectangular screw top metal container. Still good after all these years.

 

We have recently been experimenting with air cured Cerakote.
We sprayed some on a panel, and poured some brake fluid on it, and left it for hours.
It did nothing to the Cerakote. Colors are a bit limited though.

 

I was wondering about that. I have been reading their website recently.

 

By the way, all of the brake lines were OEM, nothing fancy. However, I will be using braided SS and SS hard lines when finished with Wilwood front disc conversion.

 

Mine is just black rattle can engine enamel. I touched it about a year ago with a brush, blends in fine on the rough casting. It's not a leaker and not a show car.