Is there some epoxy used on the new cars

I've worked in aerospace for years, and with the advent of carbon fiber components, we use adhesives for nearly everything. When prepped correctly, the stuff is amazing. I've glued together the spars, stringers, and skins of wings that fly at over 65,000 feet at -60 degrees F and flap like a gooney bird and the stuff stays together.

The adhesives for metal are equally as amazing, but again, the surface prep work is crucial. For maximum bond, the mating surfaces need to be roughed up with a minimum of 80 grit, preferably co****r. The mating surfaces need to be clamped tightly and evenly. For a drip rail, I would recommend dry-fitting the part in place, and if possible, securing it with #40 Clecos (.098). Make a witness line on each side of the rail with a Sharpie, then remove the rail. Rough the surfaces, then ****er the back side of the rail with the panel adhesive. Secure the rail back to the body with waxed Clecos. You must use a mold release on the Cleco or you'll never get it back out. The adhesive will squeeze out of the edges, so use a bondo spreader or a similar tool and remove the big chunks and then wipe the excess with a rag soaked in acetone or a similar solvent. After it's cured, remove the Clecos, and do a quickie swipe of adhesive with a single edged razor blade and fill the .098 Cleco holes.

Panel adhesive is not a cure-all. Sometimes, welding is a better solution, but don't overlook the performance of a quality adhesive. The stuff is amazing.

 

Most all rain gutters or drip rails are filled with seam sealer from the factory...when I say "filled" I am not saying that the trough is completely full of sealer, it's just that the inside surfaces are coated. The rationale for this is that on most vehicles the drip rail is made up of more than one piece of metal...and in most cases the rail itself is sandwiched between the roof panel and the side panel. These places where the metal is joined is prone to rusting as the water will seep into the seams if they are not properly sealed. Since the seam sealer is contained within the confines of the trough, there is no reason to apply filler over it as it will not be seen unless you look down into the rail. I use the 3M 08306 Heavy Bodied sealer as opposed to the free-flowing sealer because I want the sealer to stay in place until it sets. I use a popsicle stick to drag the sealer smoothly through the drip rail, this leaves little sanding to do after the sealer cures. Once cured the sealer can be painted with no further need for filler coat...it should look just as it did when it rolled off the factory floor with the only difference being that this sealer will never shrink like the OEM stuff.

 

prep prep prep a bond line is all prep
Standards and methods exist they create amazing results . Check an OT Airbus 380 OT a Boeing Dreamliner

 

A lot of these posts remind of a bunch of cackling *** hens !!! If you don't wanna use it don't use it. But don't downgrade it if ya haven't tried it !!! What a bunch of whinning. It's real simple either do or don't. 3M panel bond was actually developed for some Audis,where they have steel door frames with aluminum outer skins,if you can figure another way to bond the two different metals have at it.

 

I like to fix metal with metal.

 

... especially old metal.

 

went to Covells website today after seeing he will be doing a cl*** at Gambino's in San Jose. Didn't see any DVD's about glue.

 

CharlieLed, thanks for the Smartflix link I didn't know you could rent those DVDs. I bought them some time back..

 

How nice for you! I gotta ask, Is ignorance truly bliss ? "Bliss" for me is finishing a restoration or build knowing that I did everything humanly possible to insure a high quality LASTING restoration. Including researching the latest and best materials. If that's too far away from traditional for you I'm really sorry.....but there are some on here that are a little more open minded, and also understand the value of someone with knowledge on a subject giving information they worked hard to gain.

 

I like to repair metal with metal in order to make a quality repair that will last forever. I'm funny like that.

 

Did you even read the thread? Nobody that knows anything about these products has suggested using anything but metal. This is just simply a method of attachment that in SOME applications provides some benefit. One benefit not mentioned is corrosion protection. But seriously, I'm not going to waste any more time trying to enlighten you. BUT Please tell me how you make your repairs last FOREVER........If the factory that built it can't accomplish that then you must be GOOD! So tell us, I'm always open to learning new things