Is this a model A banjo? What year?

I was out at my local treasure stash and came upon this rear end. Can anyone tell be what year this is from? I am building a rpu and need parts. I am going to use a model A frame.



Is this a set Can I use the front too?

 

Yes, It appears to be model A rear end (spring over axle) and a model A front end with the wish bones split.

 

year? too hard to tell..they look alot alike for many years..i have one that looks like that out of a 1928 tudor..

 

there might be someone on here that may be able to tell you exaclty, but im sure they are going to need more info than those pictures tell.

 

You'll have to swap the brakes on both axles if you run them... no problem though there's a tech in the archives.

The rear bones look all wavy though!

 

Those are all Model A parts. Can't give an exact year but all were 99% the same.

 

yea... them bones are shot to hell...

 

Are you saying not worth trying to make them work? I don't have a lot of dough so this is a budget build.

 

they're all "budget builds" my friend... but no, even if it ment i'd have to save for a month, i'd pass on them bones... bones are pretty easy to come by tho. if the price is right on the rear, get it.

 

What is"the right price" for the rear end?

 

On a banjo rear the quick way to spot what year it is and if it's a model A is were the spring mounts. The A rearend mounts on the top of the Axle.

 

I would not give over $20 for the rear. It is probably full of water and not usable. You might get some parts is all. The front axle is worth more. I can't tell how rusty. If not too bad the front axle might be worth $50. Just what I think. Prob BS

 

The front does not look like a "drop" axel. What is this axel called. It's an I beam with a downwrd bow.

 

it's called a stock Model A ford axle

 

all that stuff is stock model A from 1928 to probably 1931 or even possibly later

 

good model a rear axles run $80-100. I agree, not over $20. The front might be worth in the same range. Pitted axles and frozen kingpins are bad.

However, if it will clean up...sell the model A mechanical bits and swap in some later pieces. Sell what you don't need. I got a free wishbone and spindles by parting out a 48 front-end.

 

Is that rear good for anything other than running a banger in front of it? I'm not sure what engine he plans on running but I didn't think they would hold up to anything more than stock horsepower.

 

A model rear ends will handle up a stocker flatty's horsepower, but not more than that.

 

I must agree. I've seen a SBC wist the hell out of the insides of one of these.

 

Do you absolutely need to use an 'A' rear end? I've got an 'A' delivery wagon with the stock engine and it's not exactly easy at 40 mph.

 

This is west Texas, It doesnt rain here. Still thanks for the advice. If it's cheap enough will get it.

 

Soit is a rough ride? Sorry for the dumb questions but I am learning.

 

Not so much a rough ride (well, it's a damn rough ride, but not because of the rear axle IMO) rather than there being a whole load of noise and the feeling that if you pushed it past 40 (hard to do) you might encounter an 'exploded view' of your differential.

If you plan on doing ANY more than city driving, go with a more modern axle. Depending on what you're building (I can't speak from experience, I do restos mostly with mods under the hood) I would use a muscle car rear axle. They can hold up to the torque and RPMs.

 

The welds on the top of the housings are common from 29-31...

If you take an original spring apart, grind the worn spots out of the leaves, bevel the bottom edge of the leaves and lube them really good, they don't ride too bad...... But it's a 70 yr old ride...

 

So no doing 70 on the highway? I am trying to build a "traditional" hot rod. SO I am trying to keep it as true to the erra as possible. I would like to be able to drive it 4 hour to Austin though.

 

Grab them and save them,you may be able to trade for something later.Never throw stuff like that away or pass it up ...It's impossible to find here in OZ nowadays ,when 10 years ago I could find it anywhere I looked. The axle housings make cool lakes headers ...

 

I say pick them up, they aren't making them anymore. Future trade fodder.

Both axles are model A. The rear is definatly 29'-31', also early 32'. Easiest way to tell is the spring perches over tube and also the torque tube flang is round. After mid 32' the flange is scollaped. The axle is good for up to about a 90 HP flattie. I have one in my A, and I cruise up to 70 mph all day long no problems. Good axle to start with, just do not throw too much HP at them or abuse them.

The front axle can be sent out for a 3" drop and are used in many early rods.

 

I have A 32 in mine roadster( same guts) and I can do 80 mph(+not for long) get 3:54 gears but that will cost 300.00 buck. how rusty is the drive shaft? it it's pitted don't miss with it. it's weak point is the 3 spider gear carrier. when you let off the pinion gear trys to move away from the ring gear and then the carrier housing will fail. so don't down shift too hard. the trans won't like it etheir. also 200+ plus hp will kill everthing. so stay away from sbc

 

I drove mine on the rolling bones reliability run. 3 days all day and A few hell rides at night. (before the beers) good times!

 

It's Model A, doesn't make a lot of odds on the exact year. I run a stock front and rear (with the addition of a quickchange) on my A sport coupe. It still has the A motor, albeit a little hopped up putting out in excess of 100 horses and it all works just fine. It gets places in the 65-70 mph bracket with no problems at all, it did before the quickchange as well though now I get better gas mileage.