Hi, Do you guys know the best route for getting plates? Given, that it has no make or model and only a bill of sale. Thanks
It all depends on where you are. Might be easy, might be a nightmare. I would start by trying to find engine or ch***is numbers
''Invent'' a number, stamp it on frame,then tell your state that it is a number that some other state ***igned it when it was first registered years ago. Your state can't do anything to you if they say it is a lie, because you can tell them that the story came along with the car. Be devious. Herb
Anyone know what this hub cap is, and I would like to buy one too, please. Oh yeah,ha, what the torque spec on these lugs?
cool car! 6 lug on a 12" wheel? never seen that before. Is that cap home made? looks like a spindle grease cap attached to a hub cap.
Hire an auto registration service to acquire a ***le and register the car for you (one that is experienced in handling vintage cars). Ask vintage car owners in your area who they use. I've said this before; "the $$$ you pay the experts to do all the legwork will be more than saved in headaches, frustration, trips to the DMV and churning stomach acid". What applies in New York state may be 180 from what someone tells you from another state here on the board. The service should be able to establish a VIN and hopefully a vintage year ***le. Possibly, it'll end up ***led as a 1928 Willys, etc. There is the avenue of buying a vintage ***le from a "***le collector" and stamping the #'s in your frame but this is usually looked upon as fraud. Let your registration folks advise you. You DON'T want a 2015 special construction ***le.
I like your little car, what are your plans for it. I would restore it to at least drivable condition and then address all the other areas of concern.
Where I live registering a car is not difficult and since computerized record keeping came in they can run the numbers in minutes. Check with your state DMV there should be some procedure for registering home built cars.
I would guess it's a 1928-31 chevy hub, but please blow it apart for further ID. But the Chevy hub has a spin-on grease cup, just like the ones on your pictures. And the 1928 chevy 3 piece plate wheels has the same kind of plates around the wheel studs and held on by the lug nuts. That can be the reason why we can't find the 6lug 12 inch little wheels. They migth be Opel laubfrouch 4/16 PS (hp) wheels re-drilled with the chevy parts on both sides. But if you blow it apart and takes some measurement I might be able to do some detective work and find out if they are what they look to be. The things you refers to as hub caps appear to be a flat piece of Alu held on by the grace ot the grease cab. Regarding torque spec, if they I indeed are old chevy parts, there is a good page full of old manuals from GM. I try find the link. https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits.html
Your wheels and hubs are modified Model T Ford items. It was common practice to take 1926-27 T brake drums and weld a 12 inch rim to them, SEARS and Montgomery Wards sold them. That six lug bolt pattern was used up into the 1960's maybe even later in custom made Midget Racing wheels. That hub cap is an aftermarket T item, just plain without the Ford Script. The cap in the photos on the left is a Chevy from the 1920's so is the T cap, ID is 2 3/8 vs 2 1/8.Bob
Note the screws in the outer rim, they were installed to keep tires from spinning off the rims. The cutout around the valve stem is unique, I've never seen that on the early wheels. Bob
If it is a Whippet engine they kept making it for the Willys 33, Americar and WW2 Jeeps and for some time after WW2. I don't know what parts interchange but if you look up the AACA bulletin boards, or some Jeep restorer boards someone must know. The Americar and Jeep engines were much improved, made more HP and lasted longer than the early versions. So not only do you have a better chance of getting parts they are better parts.
Hi Everyone, I am sure thankful for all your input. many nice comments and supportive suggestions. I looked up the Chevy lug cover; no dice, so until I can find a peculator with a big enough top I will have to keep searching for the aluminum lug nut cover. I plan to drive this car to shows, and possibly participate in a local vintage rally wit her. Thanks again Dave
The other guys migth be on to something on the grease cap, I don't have them for my 1928 chevy projekt. If you look at the two pictures below, the one being your own. The center black part, looks very similar to each other. On my chevy there is a ring like that on the inside of the hub, where the wheel studs goes true. And there is one ring like on the outside of the wheel, with the nut on top. Or you could say it's inside ring, hub, drum, wheel and outside ring. With stud going all the way true it all and a nut with a big chest on the outside. From the wheel side it's impossible for me to ID the hub as is, but pull it apart. Abd since on the early pictures I see parallel springs I would say 4 spring frame and then it's most likely a Chevy or another GM frame Abd front axle.
To register in NY, all You need is a vin # , a weight slip(farm/s**** yard) an a receipt that is back dated at least a yr., just don't put on the form that the previous owner died, Because Then you need a death certificate! Learning curve there... I went to my local sheriff's department an they will check out your vin # an issue you a vin. Verification form, proof of ins.,your all good to hit the DMV, You'll get a non transferable reg, and a month or so later you'll get a transferable
I received this Email a few days ago. Your fellow HAMBers might be interested to know that the engine in the cute -Is this a Willys?- mystery vehicle [ http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/is-this-a-willys.995053/ ] is indeed a Whippet engine, a Model 96. The Model 96 engine was first introduced during 1926 with 134 cubes and was stroked into the 145 cube Model 96A version in 1929. The Model 96 used a water pump that could be rotated to adjust fan belt tension and the exhaust header pipe connected at mid point along the manifold. The Model 96A apart from the longer stroke had a conventional type of bolt on water pump (with adjustable pulley for belt tensioning) and an exhaust manifold with an exit at the forward end. I mention the exhaust manifold because at first glance the mystery engine appears to be a Model 96A with the header pipe attachment at the forward end of the exhaust manifold. Looks can be deceiving and in this case certainly are because the mystery engine has the earlier Model 96 style of water pump and water outlet. These two parts are not interchangeable with the later Model 96A engine because the engine block casting is a different shape at the front end for these components. The 96A exhaust manifold, as fitted to the mystery engine, isn't interchangeable with the Model 96 manifold either but in the case of the mystery engine a hot rodder has been at play changing the pattern of the two centre manifold attachment bolts in the side of the engine block to adapt the later more efficient exhaust manifold. The Model 96A exhaust and inlet manifolds can be reworked to accept a downdraft carburettor and the underneath mounting flange for the updraft carby converted to function as a second exhaust header pipe outlet if the owner is looking to hop it up a bit. BTW in case the owner is interested the only major part from the later 1933 to 1938 Willys 77 engines that will bolt directly on is the cylinder head. This head swap is commonly done to boost the Model 96 compression. 1939 and later Willys and Jeep engines had an altered head bolt pattern so the later heads will not bolt directly on unless prepared to weld an insert into the head and machine it to suit the changed centre bolt position. To show what can be done I've attached photos of a Model 96 engine block fitted with both a modified post war Jeep cylinder head and the later improved Model 96A manifold ***embly that has been converted to mount a downdraft Stromberg carby and dual exhaust header pipes.
What a great little car! Score one for the home team. (Just don't start a "Show me your Willys" thread- could get weird!)
Not my information. This comes from Ted Robinette in Australia. He sent it to me to post, rather then posting himself. And I find it very interesting and thank Ted for sending it.
Late to the party again, what a great little car with cool proportions. As a Willys guy I can also say its a Whippet engine, its the same as the 1929 96A I had. Would love to hear the cars history . JW
WOW, what a great find/buy - nice early homebuilt. Go back to seller and try to get more history - maybe who owned farm/barn years ago. Old local garage owners may have info. It is a beauty. Would love close up or hood ornament. Sure to be popular car on H.A.M.B. - now answer everyone's questions.
Hi Gang, There was a roll pin in my coil, I was bewildered, anyway It had to go to make room for the new coil wire terminal.
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