Hi all! Almost ready to put together my type "59" flathead.. spec's: -domed, 4 ring pistons (looked ok, so set of new rings) -Edelbrock heads (old ones) -Offenhauser dual intake -Holley carbs -Isky valvesprings, one-piece guides, and set of new valves -solid, adjustable lifters (where inthere, with stock Ford-cam) drive-plan: -4 gear (M41) with overdrive (laycock-type d) -16" spokewheels ->QUESTION: For intended daily road-use, I had my eye on the Isky "max-1" cam, I read a lot of stories about how great these cams are? So as a cherry on the cake I'd put one in. But! What are the troubles with the lifters? Will it be a problem if I re-use the lifters that I have? (last overhaul of the engine was in '74) Also buying new lifters doubles the price, so if it isn't really necessary, that would be great news! cheers from Belgium
this one sounds just great I think.. it's a merc, and has three carbs, so not really the same setup, but this is my goal with the engine.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGLqF0w6DiM
If you can find a machine shop that can re-machine the lifter faces you'd be OK... other wise "new cam-new lifters".... There have been some quality issues of late with Isky cams... reported here by a few members. Do a search.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwbDeXM88Yw&feature=g-upl&context=G2b50311AUAAAAAAAAAA Another Isky MAX 1
hmmm, this sounds like a potatoe rolling from a cliff, compared to the other one?! I'm an ignitionfreak, so I hope that will be the difference!?
another point are the seals of the valve guides, I tought I was running eight short, but in the 'a sweet sickness' movie, one guy mentions that no seals are required at the exhaus-guides? Now not any of the books I've been reading says anything about this.. I have bought an extra 8, only remaining question is wether I shall put them in or not..
It wouldnt hurt to put seals on the exhaust side too, but use anti seeze on them. Guys on the Ford Barn swear buy the L100 grind for everyday use. Ask on the early V8 forum at Fordbarn.com
now the Schneider 294-cam is being put forth.. should be kinda equal to the max 1? anybody driving this?
I am not familiar with the Schneider 294. I have a Schneider 260F in mine and could not be happier. I read some earlier post about some guys having timing issues with there Isky cams.
thanks for that! there might be a number-mixup, can't seem to find it on the site either.. I'm especially interested in the range of rev's, I'm not intending to build a race-engine, so stationary is quite important..
For strong bottom and midrange use a 1007B grind but I wouldn't get one from ISKY have one ground by one of the other grinders the L100 is supposed to be a fairly radical cam
The flatty in my Model A is alot like the setup you have; I like the Max 1 I put in her. Plenty of torque with the 775x16's, the MA's stock 378 banjo and the 39 3-speed with 2.8:1 1st/ 1.6:1 2nd. She'll cruise all day long at 2500 rpm/60 mph. Not much of a video, but I wanted people to be able to hear the engine through the Smitty's: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9x7BC-AM4g Here's a link to another recent thread about the Max 1: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=703580
Do your homework first. For the money there are a lot better choices than a Max 1.As already mentioned above, ask around over at the Ford barn. Many of those guys have decades of experience building Flatheads. Heres a little discussion about the Max 1 from some of those guys http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35253&highlight=max1
great advice this was! I've been nosing around about setups before, but you never know the whole setup in these youtubefilms, sound is overall kinda weird through the net, with the ignition I can go all sides (twostroke-trained), just want a streetcam, with very exact measures actually, just want it to run as exact as possible.. about the multicarb-idletroubles in the links I was thinking of better springs tot keep the valves shut, I'd get rid of one breaker in the ignition and put an electronic on the remaining one, the baseplate would have to get an outside steered advance mechanism (sorry about the awkward english sometimes) there's a bunch of plans waiting, so stock won't do. But not for racing, moreof detailing the original (?) to get back on the cam, I think I'll go for the Schneider then. Next question are the lifters .. I have solid adjustable lifters inthere, not worn, but visibly (slightly) used... would it be necessary to have these flattened, not to have disasters following? I'll run in gentle, and have loads of other work, so no stress on performance.. my guess is it'll run, and keep running, even with perhaps some extra ratlle to solve later no?
Agree with krooser; new cam, new lifters. There's just too much at risk if you wipe a lobe. Re valve seals. I'm not sure how much you really gain in a flathead since the valves push up; you don't have the problem of oil running down the stems into the ports like an OHV engine. I'd actually be more concerned the valves weren't getting proper lubrication by adding the seals than burning a little oil without them.
here's a pic of the lot: right-right is a guide with the seal, the one next to it has none. centre left is the old valvetrain, and left-left the lifter. tried to get a reflexion in the top, to show the amount of wear
You want original / old Johnson adjustable lifters….new ones cant be trusted (china) Have them redone by a real shop that does flathead work. If you want it to sound like it has a cam w some lope …. the last one you want is the Max 1. The only one I ever used was all wrong when we went to degree it …. sent it back and got another (that was correct finally) but the thing sounds no better than a stocker w headers.
thats some good advice, these lifters fit perfectly into the block, they're quite heavy too.. finding a shop that does flatheads here will be fairly impossible, but I know some good 'metalmachining companies' around here. so only thing that needs to be done to them is flatten out the contactsurface right? or should they be re-hardened too? thanks for the contructive replies! cheers
No not flat …. they are to have a radius on the face …. that’s what makes them rotate in use ….that’s why you need to send them to someone that know what’s up Yours should be hallow if there the real deal ///// not heavy solid ones.
ahaah, that was the link I was missing!.. so if the noses of the fresh cam don't align with the worn in ones on the lifter, you might run in a fresh trail that sticks the lifter in one place and grinds it in his seat? that would basically mean that measuring the wideness of the new cam, and comparing to the stock one that used to be inthere, would learn something? monitoring wether the lifters are turning around would also be nice then, and the hollow parts in the sides that are somewhat spiral also get a meaning now.. would hollow lifters turn more easily because of more accordance to the vibrations of the engine? getting extra oil on the valveguides is also a fresh point of thought.. man I feel like I was 13 and got to know the small details about 2stroke engines.. might also sound a bit as a 13yearold on this ghehh it's a lovely chord, this flathead (like a 2stroke, you need to get all the strings accorded, to get the best ot of it) cheers and thanks
Lifters to use with your new cam; NEW ! Very well worth the cost,.... And,.be sure to use plenty of the cam mfgr's recommended assembly lube. There is a great thread on here, re; breaking in your new cam and lifters,..a good read. Johnson adjustable lifters, as already recommended. Replacemet flathead valve guides all come with the grooves for seals,..cheaper to just make one style, which is ok. Must be used on the intakes,...I have no info re; also using them for the exhaust guides,...Anyone ? 4TTRUK
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