I removed the badly cracked drip rain caulk from my Belair the other day. I mean like 100% gone, the metal underneath is fine. I plan to prime and paint over the caulk. I got some 3M Drip Chek caulk in a tube. I masked off the roof and the edge of the stainless steel rain gutter. I then applied it per the tube instructions, 1 side only. I believe I removed the masking tape too soon and it disturbed the caulk quite a bit. At the worst I will have to do that side over. Last night I made a test-piece using some scrap aluminum sheet. I laid down the tape, applied the 3M stuff. I would say it is now 13 hours "cured". I took the tape off and it still tore the caulk a little. The edge is far from clean. I am totally in with using something else, even that caulk tape I had heard about, but cannot easily find. On my Ford, I used a caulk-gun type caulk and it was so hard to apply, I wrecked one caulk gun and my hands were killing me after. I don't think it was a 3M product. I have an auto body supply house close by, any suggestions, thanks in advance.
We used to apply the 3M dripchek and then depending where it was, just smooth out the edge with your finger. When I say 'depending where it is' means if there is a chance of slicing your finger on a sharp edge use a piece rag with wax and grease remover on it instead to smooth it.
2 part seam sealer is what I use. It sets up pretty quick. Your paint store should have some and a gun you can rent. Some is DTM and some require primer first
2 part 3M PANEL ADHESIVE is what a friend and 3M rep recommended, and it was awesome! It smoothed out so easily for a perfect drip rail, I couldn't believe it. It also has a rust inhibitor, and I believe it can be applied over bare metal or epoxy primer. It sands super easy. This was 7 years ago, so maybe they've since added a 2 part (drip rail)/ seam sealer the above members talked about.
Second this! Any seam sealer will work, if there is surface rust there, you may need to give it a treatment first. Once you lay a bead down, use your finger dipped in acetone to make it flow stupid smooth over the top. Great finishing technique for getting those adhesives like glass on the top side where you can see em.
Thanks all, I picked up a SEM product locally, $24 a tube, caulk gun type. My mistake with the first one was pulling the tape off too soon and it took the sealer with it. It is quite runny. I masked things off as not to get it all over the paint north of the drip rail. I know I have to prime and paint after it cures, trying not to make this a major project. Plus I'm not sure how sandable the new product is. I'm lucky to have done just one side. When it was cooler in the afternoon, I went out and removed most of the 3M stuff. Next I'm going back at it with a heat gun and a little mineral spirits as that is easier on the paint than lacquer thinner. I would have to be a brain surgeon with that. How would acetone be? I just want to get as much as possible out, in case the 2 products do not pay well together. In comparison, my Ford was one-and-done with that stiff tube of caulk I used.
I wish I had seen those sealers, mine was the standard caulk gun tube. BUT... it worked very well. I had gone out earlier and cleaned more of the 3M stuff off. Started on the 3M side since it was the cleanest. That side I needed to do about 75% of the rail and it blended well with the old caulk. I saw that it has a "pot life" of less than 10 minutes, anything past that and I'd have a real mess. The other side was more like 95% and what I learned on side 1 helped a bunch. The tape came off cleanly, I went in the order that the caulk was laid down on. I am going to have to go back and fill in some lower areas today. There are not that many. I could try the 3M product, but I'd risk something going potentially bad. Thoughts? I would give the SEM stuff ample time to cure. Next I'm going to need to clean the area so I can prime and paint (all rattle can, Transtar primer and paint from these guys: https://www.automotivetouchup.com/?...UYES_mWB1jCTKn42PP2FIgxrgdDCc1tgaAj7jEALw_wcB). In the past I have used Prep Sol, no idea if it still exists. I will hit the paint shop on Monday. I'll have the paint in a few days.
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