My wife and I inherited a 1954 Ford. My father in law purchased the car in 1982 at which time it was in great condition. About 12 years ago the car was undergoing the process of an engine mod and new paint when it became abandoned in the backyard. As of last night the car is now in our possession and ready for new life! We have so many ideas of what we would like to do but do not know where to begin. PLEASE HELP! I am excited to find and join this forum to have a resource of experience to help us through this process. I look forward to meeting some of you on the road and at local events. I do have a couple of questions though, can anyone tell me what model this is? I think it is a Customline but cannot find any badges to confirm. Also, where do we begin with bringing this car to life? I am starting today with a vacuum to the interior. Thanks for the help!
Welcome from Michigan. That;s a good looking Ford. V8, auto. Like the visor, and, is that tinted gl***?
From your data plate you have a 239 yblock, 54, manufactured in Dallas, Fordor sedan. 73B is a Fordor Customline Sedan M is Sandstone White B I was unable to find a listing for the upholstery. The car was manufactured on the 15th July 1954 Check this link for a brochure for the 1954 Ford. http://storm.oldcarmanualproject.com/ford1954.htm Great score by the way. Regards
Nice car! I also have a Dallas built 54 Customline Fordor. First things first, does the engine turn over? If so, you can probably get this car running and driving for no more than a few hundred bucks if you can do the work yourself. So let's start there... See if you can turn the engine with a socket and a ratchet, try it with the plugs out or loose and see if it turns over smoothly. Then we can walk ya through what it's likely going to need to get running, and then what it's going to need to be roadworthy. ***uming the major components are functional, a car that's been off the road for 10+ years generally needs about $800-1500 in parts and repairs to be somewhat reliable. Here's what I do in the case of a car like this... Rebuild all the brakes. New wheel cylinders,mhardware, hoses, lines, master. Flush system. All the rubber hoses under the hood get replaced. Once it's running again expect the water pump to start leaking on ya (it might not but don't be surprised). Belt? Replace it. This includes heater hoses! Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, condenser. Oil change, oil filter. Change all driveline fluids and lube/grease/repack everything on the car. Remove gas tank, flush it out. Rebuild carb with $50 carb rebuild kit. Plan on rubber fuel pump diaphragm being bad, budget for new pump. Might be a good idea to get radiator flushed and tested. If it needs a new one they are under $200 (use mid 60s Mustang 6 cyl rad, they go right in). oh yeah.. Fuel... Replace the rubber fuel lines. New tires. Bias ply white walls like I use are $700-750 or so with shipping, install, etc. Modern 205-75-15 narrow white wall radials are a lot less. They look goofy but are cheap. Wide white wall radials are expensive and... Well I don't like em but lots of people do Oh yeah, black walls don't look silly on a car like yours eithermsomif I were going the cheap radial route I might flip em to black walls. So, if you've done ALL THAT on a car with a reasonably Good engine, trans and rear end you've just eliminated most of what will leave you stranded. That's largely what I did to my car and I now drive it pretty much daily.
Your first investment should be this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1952-1953-1...anuals_Literature&vxp=mtr&hash=item5d2c23239a also one of our members Retro Jim has on CD-ROM the 1949-59 Ford Parts Manual for $12 shipped to your door this shows every component of your Ford in exploded views so you will know where every part goes as well as the part numbers which can make finding parts EZ,just Google the part number.We also have tons of info here in the Group archives to help you just ask.
Welcome! I'm in Burleson, TX. Not a close neighbor but not all that far away, either. rld14 has given you a great outline to follow to turn your long-neglected Ford into a functional ride. But first, as he suggested, let us help you get it running again. Once you've determined it'll turn over freely, post again and we'll walk you through the process of waking the motor/transmission up after their long nap.
Thanks to all for the great information and the details about the car. I am going to follow the process provided by rld14 and get the parts manual as suggested thanks JeffB2. I will have time next Monday to get started and will keep everyone posted on what happens. Very excited to get started. Why didn't I do this sooner?
If you need to rebuild the steering or suspensions, I have multiple pictures and I can give you very detailed directions of how to complete the job.
Thanks 54 Hotrod. I am guessing it will need a rebuild since it has been sitting so long. I would also like to change the engine with a little more power which will require a change in rear end and suspension I believe.
The reared in mine is the same as original but the drive shaft is different. These cars were set up with freeway gears in the reared and I've never had a problem with mine. I would get the CD that Jeff put a link to and the one that Jim sells. I have the paperback of the 52-54 manual and the CD jim sells will give you all the other information you should need.
Well... The stock rear is fine for close to 300hp, which would be a really stout 312. You don't need a 9" rear end just yet. As far as power goes, a stock 239 has 130hp, even a 292 with a 4 barrel will have around 200 and move that car along fine. What were your plans for the drivetrain?
So I called it an early Friday because I was excited to get started on the car. I pulled the radiator and all the plugs which was a joy in itself. I cannot get the crank to turn. Any ideas of what I should try to make sure I am doing everything correct. I was hoping this motor was good. I checked the oil and ****** fluid and both look good.
This has come up before on the HAMB many times so here's what you try.Remove the spark plugs and empty a spray can of PB Blaster equally into all the cylinders and let it soak overnight at least 12 hours with the plugs back in then try rocking the crank back and forth with a breaker bar,if it still is stuck get a large bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil and pour that in thru a funnel into all the cylinders and let sit at least 12 hours then get the breaker bar back in action again,90% of the time this will free it up.Before rocking it remove the plugs,during the soaking time just hand screw in the plugs only to keep the chemical from evaporating faster.
About the rear end they can handle a fair amount of power especially with an automatic which will be easier on it a 302/5.0 swap with an AOD is about the best way to go because of the high numerical gears in these rears.
Great news. I was able to get the crank to turn over with a breaker bar. Can't really say it was smooth but I did turn it several times. Should I proceed with re***embling everything, changing the oil, and trying to start? Should I clean the gas tank before doing anything?
Good to hear that you were able to free up the engine. If you are still intent on changing engines, I would take that one off your hands, but I couldn't get it until later this year when I get back from deployment. I agree with Jeff when it comes to a 302 engine swap. I don't have one but I can tell you for sure that the 351W being wider than the 302 makes things difficult.
Since you got it moving with the breaker bar go ahead and still put the Marvel Mystery Oil down the cylinders,no doubt the rings will have stuck from sitting and this should help free them up,also put the Marvel in with the first oil change.I would have the tank cleaned old fuel can turn into a varnish and unleaded leaves a chalky deposit as well.I had my tank boiled out at a radiator shop for $60 looked like new and they also leak tested it.While it is out undo the line from the fuel pump and plug it off at the tank end then get an aerosol can of Berryman Chem-Tool or Gumout and fill the line up and plug it off while the tank is at the shop then blow it out with a compressor so much gunk came out of mine I replaced the fuel lines,maybe you will be luckier.
What I'd also really strongly suggest you do is what Jeff said, keep turning it with MMO in the cylinders.... see if it starts to smooth out. Once you get it running the rings will still be sticking, so expect quite a lot of smoking. Also make sure theres not oil pooled in the cylinders once you try and start it, as that can hydrolock the engine and cause expensive damage. Oh yeah, I'd also remove the valve covers and look for a few things before you try and start it. 1) Make sure the valves are opening and closing as you turn the engine, watch the rockers. If you have a stuck valve stem we'll go over that. 2) Make sure the heads aren't all sludged up, and that the oil p***ages are clear. Good stuff so far, glad you got the engine unstuck!
You absolutely want to drop the tank and have it cleaned before you try to start it. I didn't do this to mine and the result was two cylinders with bad rings. I was planning on swapping the 239 for a 312 anyways so not that big of a deal, but I wanted to get at least one year of cruising in. Live and learn. You can see pictures and a couple videos of my tank here - http://1954vicky.com/my-1954-ford-victoria/look-what-was-in-my-gas-tank/
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