Thanks dudes, Haha, I was wondering if anyone was gonna notice that. No room up front for the radiator. Basically, I'm building an early 50's style race car for the street... But being a street car, I can't just set the engine back and make room. I don't want to lengthen the wheelbase or extend the nose. This thing needs to be concise! So... the radiator is going in the trunk.
Are you building scoops under the car to get air IN the trunk? Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
One big scoop... just a large duct in front of the rear axle that will direct air right through the radiator.
"Probably had more than a few T restorers rolling over in their graves. This was a NICE decklid!" Not to mention a few rodders! Isnt that what Howells is for?
Good thing you still have the skeleton key for the decklid. One free kick in the**** after they roll over in the grave!
Wow Andy this is one chile ride! Remember the 'e' is silent! And don't let Leroy eat any more eggs. Josh Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Body back off for some finish welding... Main floorpan done... Steering... The undercowl structure needs some gussets and triangulated bars yet, but it does actually steer!
Those are "some" cragars getting dusty... I sold those other ones off the van, "those" belong to Leroy, they are also for sale... brand new tires. Inquire within. Thanks Jon!
when u set up you front and rear,how'd you figure your caster and pinion angle? i understand the weight of the motor/trans and everything else will change things.
Thanks fellas! I build 7* into the front crossmember with the frame at the desired rake. In a spring behind setup like this, I leave the spring perches loose until the engine/trans/body/interior/fluids are installed and everything is sitting where I want, then I tack them in place, remove the nuts and weld them up solid. This particular front end is fully adjustable for caster as well. For a closed drive rear end, it's pretty simple, just put the rear crossmember at or close to the same angle as the torque tube at the calculated ride height. Because the engine and trans are mounted kind of high in this chassis, the rear crossmember is 3* up toward the front. With a more typical engine/trans placement and less kickup at the rear rails you can usually count on level to be pretty close. Works well for me!
gas, brake, and clutch... left foot clearance bevel on the framerail. I got an email asking about my clutch pedal setup. It's just an F1 pickup Z bar cut up and modified to fit with a ? pedal welded solid to it. If you look close, you'll see a big jamb nut on the right side of the cross shaft, that's how pedal position/freeplay is adjusted. I cut the shaft in half, welded a 9/16 fine thread bolt to one half and a flathead generator mount nut to the other.
You certainly love slopping around in the muck. These builds positively start of with the filthiest parts you can find and then all of a sudden***** comes together and blooms into these beautiful cars. I think you're filthy. I think those air cleaners are keepers I think those heads are stolen I think I call dibs on shotgun when you get this thing sideways at Latimore Valley...if there's even a passenger seat. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
It's funny... I also used to say to myself, "well, when I get a parts washer and a blast cabinet, I'll clean everything up before I mess with it..." well, there they sit in the shop and I'm still playing with dirty parts! In this case though, it's mostly because I'm not sure if my ideas will actually work until I flesh them out in reality. Why waste time cleaning things up that I may not end up using, right?
nice looking hot rod sir. I dig your "cowl cage" . Still in amazement of where you ever scrounge up these rare Weiand flathead parts. love weiand stuff.
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