Projects I've Always Wanted A Flathead!

As long as you are using all new bearings, it shouldn't matter that the rods go in different holes.

Once you have the block dunked and magged, if it turns out good have the internal p***ages sandblasted clean. My flatty had this done and it normally rolls down the road at 170 degrees.

 

I am pretty sure that the crank will have to be ground because of some rust. So, I will most likely getting new bearings.

 

Just keep in mind that machining a flathead block includes a valve job. Also the later blocks have no seats, so you should install hardened seats as well. It's usually between $800-1500 to get a block done right.

 

Well, the flatty shed a few pounds today. I still have some rust to get out, but it's definitely looking better. I picked up some Evapo-Rust and am going to try it out before taking it to the machine shop. I was going to put the heads back on, stand the block on its end, and fill the water jackets with the rust remover. However, I threw away the head gaskets. Is it possible that I can do this without the gaskets, since there is no pressure? Or, will the solution leak out?

 

My friend mic'd the cylinders and the engine has a standard bore. I feel that it has never been overhauled. When taking out the pistons, I did notice the numbering on the rods and rod caps. I was very careful to put them back together exactly as they were removed. Thanks for the advice on the crankshaft. The one that I am going to was removed from a stuck '50 Merc. It has some pitting on the journals, so it will likely need to be cut. I'm hoping that we only have to go to .010".

 

Congrats! I just picked up my first as well. '41, I think. Even came with a clean 94, and exhaust manifolds!
Tuned in for updates. (It's easier when you can learn from someone else's mistakes.)

 

I would resize the big end of the rods if you are going to reuse them. Then it wouldn't matter which hole they go in. Be sure to do all your inspection on the block before you get too far into the rebuild, they are notorious for cracks.

 

Congratulations!! Looks like a great find. Yes, please stay tuned. More mistakes are on the way. Ha ha!!

 

Thanks for the info. I have been looking for miscellaneous parts, but won't make any purchases until the block is confirmed to be good. I noticed that you are from Lindale. I was just over in Gladewater last weekend.

 

Update on the Flatty...... I have taken it to the machine shop and am waiting to hear back on the condition of the block. The gentleman who I am using worked in the engine shop for Reher-Morrison for 22 years. He was recommended to me by a close friend. I am eager to find out if I have a good block to build!!

Switching gears a little (pardon the pun)! We had some work being done at the house yesterday, and I started talking to one of the guys about my Flathead. I told him that I had the 3-speed Ford transmission, but that I was not going to use it. He mentioned that he had, what he thought to be, a 4-speed Muncie. I asked him to send me pictures so that I could look into it. Turns out, it is a Saginaw. I have posted pictures below. I have read some threads about Saginaw transmissions not holding up in a higher horsepower, racing application. Question is whether it would be ok for my Flathead cruiser, that will probably not put up more than 150 hp? And, consider it to be a core, what is it worth?

 

Yes a Saginaw can hold up to a flathead. Also, be aware that a new Hurst shifter might cost more than the transmission, so that one with the shifter already there could be a bargain.

 

Congratulations for taking on the challenge of a flathead! To clear up a few things, it does not
matter which hole the rods go back into if they have the matching rod cap on them that you took
off. As for the main caps, a straight edge will be of no value to match them back up.
Believe it or not, after working in an engine building shop for a number of years, I can actually
match them up by feel.We often had people bring in dis***embled engines w/unmarked parts.
I don't live too far from you. I'm in McKinney,TX. I have a buddy that lives in an airplane hanger in Paradise,TX. that I need to go visit anyway. There is a shop in Yantis,TX. that I would trust with a
flathead if you need them. It is owned by a guy named Tinker (903-383-7676). His son is on the HAMB.
"wbrw32" on here also knows him as do most racers in north Texas. Glad to help if I can.
Sounds like you are hooked up with an experienced flathead guy. You need someone with experience.

 

If you check-out those main bearing caps I think you will find they are each different. You have a photo so it will be no problem to decide where they belong. Harley

 

Soak shifter and rods in mol***es solution then use HP air to dry. It will be like new; oil, install & adjust. I think the Comp+ is better than the Indy variety

 

Picked up the transmission and shifter for $100. Hopefully that was a decent buy.

 

i have definitely made a more high stakes gamble in the past, and lost. i bet it was a good wager on your part and I hope You have the best of luck!!!

...i should add, that You are lucky to have enthusiastic, knowledgable flathead fellas on this HAMB that are willing to lend a hand! The way i see it, You have already won!! ...the smooth runnin V-8 when you're complete will be the bonus prize!! Keep up the good work, man!

 

Well, it has been almost a year since I have posted here. Life happens, you know! My wife and I sold our home and moved into a duplex; while we build our new home. In turn, I had to put a lot of things in storage until the new place is finished. Our storage unit was broken into a few months ago. They must have been ground keepers at a golf course, since they stole my clubs, my chainsaw, and my weedeater (along with some other tools). Luckily, they didn't touch any of the flathead parts!! In the past year, little progress has been made on the engine. This is not all bad, however, as I really don't have anywhere to put it for another couple of months. But, I was able to get the block vatted and magnafluxed. Turns out that the block is in very good condition. There were a couple of small cracks, but nothing in the seats or the cylinders. I have provided pics below.

 

Here are a couple of more pics. One shows the 8 new exhaust seats, and the other shows the cylinders after being cleaned up. They cleaned up at about .015. So, a question that I have is should I have them bored to .020 or to .030? In all of my ignorance, my initial thought is less is better. But, I would think that availability and cost may also be a determining factor. Any input would be appreciated.

 

Back at it again! Needing some advice. I have located a 4" Merc crank that has been ground .030 on the rods and .010 on the mains. What are your thoughts? Will the cost of bearings be much more than going with a std/std or .010/.010 etc?

 

Can anyone recommend a shop in the Dallas / Fort Worth area that would pressure test and sonic test my block? I am going to bore it .125 and want to make sure that the cylinder walls will take it.

 

I wouldn't bore any more than needed for cleanup. First, because you want all the cylinder wall possible to keep it cool. Second because there may be rust pits in the water jacket you won't find until you bore it big. Third because you may want to bore it again someday after you wear it out.

 

Wow, started out as more a stocker, now we want to go big with a .125 bore. I'm with Alchemy, I'd bore it as little as possible so it has a future life. I got a nice crack free block here but it needs to be bored but it's already .125 over so it's basically junk. Unless your planning to race it I dought you would really feel the extra cubes from the seat of your pants.

 

The 8CM in my roadster could have been built standard but decided to go .030 to "clean" it up. Should have gone .060 as the pistons were a lot cheaper. It runs great with Edelbrock heads & intake w/dual 97s, an Isky cam & Mallory electronic distributor, 3.70 gear 9" & S10 T5. 1800 RPM at 60 MPH.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I may end up going with .060 bore instead.

 

It's been a long time since my last update. But, things are rolling once again. I ended up having the block bored .060. I went with Egge pistons and Hasting rings. I don't know what I was thinking when I tore the engine down, but I managed to s**** (or give away) the camshaft. Turns out, I needed it for the re-grind. I was able to find a stock cam and am having it sent to Pete in Washington. He recommended a 1007B grind. I was also able to get my hands on a rebuilt Merc crank that had been cut .010/.010. I am also about to pull the trigger on an Edelbrock Slingshot intake, to be used with my 94 carbs. Hopefully, this build is gaining some traction and there won't be such a long delay before the next post.

 

Hi where and who did you use for the machine work, i live in south fort worth, any help on shops would be appreciated Thanks.

 

us too