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I've been asking a bunch of questions, here's the project...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by whitewallslick, May 3, 2004.

  1. whitewallslick
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 279

    whitewallslick
    Member
    1. oHIo

    I started collecting parts to build a t-bucket when I was in high school (late 80's), even made a little book back then with sketches of all the details I wanted to incorporate. Over the course of several years, my plans for the bucket changed several times while my taste in cars developed. It got to the point where I had a mess on my hands. A lot of the problem was the learning curve my poor bucket endured. I've decided to tear the thing back down to bare frame & start over to fit where my tastes & style have settled.

    Here's a before pic:
    [​IMG]

    After stripping the suspension down & removing the pickup bed, one of my buds gave me the leftovers of a '37 Ford project he recently sold. I slipped the '37 front & rear suspension under the frame to check things out.

    Plans for the front are to scrap the stock spring, split the wishbone with Ford tie rod ends, convert to a spring over the axle setup, suicide perch under the spring, & juice brakes.
    [​IMG]

    Plans for the rear are to swap the axle tubes side for side so the spring is ahead of the housing, convert to an open drive, juice brakes, & I'm still unsure about the radius rods.
    [​IMG]


    Steering will be drag link starting with a '54 F100 box & stock ball-type pitman arm (thanks Trailer-Ed), tied to a hoop style steering arm. The F100 drag link will be hacked off & mated to longer tubing & a ford tie rod end.
    [​IMG]

    The body is from Speedway, I've glassed in a 3/4" plywood floor & a total performance trans tunnel. Grille shell is an original steel piece, the first part I bought back in 1989.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Wheels are stock '37 wide-5, haven't decided on rubber yet. No caps for sure.
    [​IMG]

    Also started on the open drive conversion, $300 is too rich for me, I'm gonna figure this out myself. Took measurements, drew up the profile in Autocad, & cut out the plot for a test fit. If someone can take a measurement of the id of a torque tube, I'd appreciate it. Since I've broke the 200 post mark & everyone's so dern helpful here, I'll make an extra conversion kit for a HAMB auction.
    [​IMG]

    That's enough for now, I'll post more pics as I progress, time to get back out to the garage & get those dang rear drums off .... WWS
     
  2. Unkl Ian
    Joined: Mar 29, 2001
    Posts: 13,509

    Unkl Ian

    HAMBer Smokey made his own open conversion.
    If it's not in the TechOmatic,someone else might have saved the info.
     
  3. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 6,205

    atch
    Member

    whitewall,

    you might want to read this: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/showthreaded.php?Cat=&Number=78277&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=14&vc=1

    unfortunately, the pix are long gone on posts that old.

    fortunately, i've got the thread saved as a file on my hard drive, so here's the pic that goes with smokey's explanation:

    oops, i can't separate the picture in the file from the rest of the file.

    i e-mailed the file with smokey's post to you using the addy in your profile.
     
  4. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 6,205

    atch
    Member

    looks like unkl and i were typing at the same time...
     
  5. whitewallslick
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 279

    whitewallslick
    Member
    1. oHIo

    I'm not going to mess with any torque tube pieces. I called my local spicer dealer & he's going to work with me to find a yoke & seal. The seal support shouldn't be too bad to fabricate. This is Speedway's kit, looks like a simple sleeve presses into the machined plate. Tig the backside so no welds show. Anybody have the part number off the seal in Speedway's kit? WWS

    [​IMG]
     

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