Hot Rods J.D. Terry's '34 Roadster

Thought I'd do another build thread from the shop (Race Street Garage), although I don't have near as many pictures of this one as I did of Sam's coupe. This one was a pretty old "restoration." We heard a couple different stories about it, but it kinda looks like a brush painted then rubbed out lacquer job from the '70's. Its really hard to tell. But it was time for this stocker to become a hot rod, while keeping the old paint largely untouched.

I apologize again for the lack of pictures, but I'll try and sum up the chassis modifications. The engine started out as a '57 Corvette 283 with an original dual quad intake and carbs. It turned out to have some problems and eventually we ended up with a later 283 but kept the original intake setup. It is shown early on with a Zips water pump riser and fan, but we did later go back to a stock short water pump and electric fan. We fit the engine and a Cory Taulbert T5 transmission into the frame with some front crossmember modifications, custom made engine mounts, notching the center of the X-member and making a new transmission mount that bolts in between the back legs of the X. We used a SBC to '40 trans adapter, then a '40 trans to Muncie adapter (I know, confusing) to keep the use of a factory style cross shaft clutch release setup. We made brackets to use stay-rods for the clutch too.

The rear end is a '40 with a Hot Rod Works axle conversion and a shortened torque tube. We kept a '40 rear spring in it by modifying the spring to fit the '34 crossmember. Front and rear springs are reversed. Front axle is dropped 3.5" and wishbones are split. Factory pedals were kept and (sorry again for no specific picture) we utilized some of the stock mechanical brake linkage pieces to reverse the pedal pull into a push for the master cylinder mounted farther back on the X-member leg. We re-worked a stock parking brake handle to mount off of the transmission and pull the intermediate cables connected to the Lincoln style brakes. Tube shocks at all corners. Neal Jennings provided the steering box. The stock firewall was modified for engine clearance and we installed a new flat floor into the body before putting it back on the chassis.

 

The original windshield posts were chopped 3.5" and all the original holes for side curtains and wind wings were filled. A new aftermarket 2" chopped windshield frame was chopped additionally to match. We chopped the original top irons and remade a couple of them from scratch, doing a few masking tape and poster board mock ups along the way. The original dash was completely filled, then we cut a bunch of holes in it for a full set of original rebuilt Stewart Warner gauges. To work with the new steering box and for a slightly more comfortable steering wheel angle, we lengthened a '35/'36 column drop. The transmission cover was made entirely from scratch. Finally because the car is so low up front, we modified the front fender braces for extra clearance. We also added a sway bar and bump stops to the front suspension which does a great job keeping the tires out of the fenders.






















Exhaust is 2" all the way back with a pair of Cherry Bomb old style mufflers.

 

With the fab work sorted out, our resident electrician Mark Veltkamp wired the car using all of the appropriate stuff. Glass fuses, cloth wiring and cable lacing. We touched up some of the chassis and firewall trying to match the "patina." We sent some goodies off to chrome including the dash...and JD said why not chrome the trans cover too? So we did! The car was almost wrapped up and made it to Pistons & Paint in Denton, Tx, and the Gathering at the Roc last year.










But the car wasn't complete without the top, and there was only one person who coupld do this car justice. That was Paul Reichlin. He had some old material that came off of I think a Lincoln. The top isn't perfect in every aspect, but it is perfectly fitting for this car. While we had the overall profile already sorted out, the side window matters just as much and he nailed it (as he always does).

 

It also took a trip to the roadster show this year, featured in the Suede Palace. A couple of these I took myself but others were blatantly stolen from the internet and I'm sorry for not keeping track and giving credit!

 

Great job! Looks perfect.

 

Very nice rod.

 

Oh yea!

 

That is a very tastefully done little car. Nice work.

-Abone.

 

You guys do very fine work!

 

Stunning.

 

Beautiful Rodster with just the Right Stuff! Awesome photo, how would you like to come home to this pair?!

 

You guys at Race St must be inside my head because that’s exactly how I’d do a 34 roadster!

the profile of the top with the stance is killer!

 

Needs a pair of Smithy’s. Hehe.

 

Thanks for posting this build thread @Anderson even if it was a very short one. Now I'm waiting on posts on either your roadster or Sam's new 32-5 window.
On J.D's roadster are those 36 headlights which replaced the originals and how are they mounted?
And you mentioned fitting clutch rods and I could see them in your pics. Why are they fitted as I've never noticed them in other builds?

 

Any chance you have photos of the front sway bar set up? Thats a lot to package in an early car.

Car looked fantastic at the roc, give it a couple years and no one would believe it hasn’t been together for decades.

 

Nailed it. Thanks for the photos. Snowman ⛄️

 

Well done!

 

Thank you! The headlights are just BLCs. We did use the aftermarket dropped headlight stands for them.

Since we used a factory style clutch lever setup, when you press the clutch it is wanting to push the engine forward. It’s using the engine/transmission mounts as an anchor for the leverage to disengage the clutch. So we put clutch rods back in it to keep it from trying to push the engine into the radiator, and since it’s a torque tube setup, from trying to pull the rear end forward.

 

In a ‘33/‘34 there is just enough room between the radiator and lower grill pan for a sway bar. We weld a piece of 1-3/8” tubing into the frame and use the bushings, bar, and end links we get from Roadster supply. The bar is splined and then we have to bend the arms just right to fit between the fender braces and shock mounts, then use male/female rod end linkage to a tab we weld on either the wishbone yoke or spring perch - we have done both. Shock placement and angle makes a big difference in being able to do this, but is also limited by the drivers side shock still needing to clear the upper steering arm. There’s not much room for error! We’ve done this in a few cars now and it makes a world of difference.

 

@Anderson excellent work! Did you add a ring to the police speedo to make it wider? Mine has a very thin rim. Thanks

 

Very cool.

 

Thank you! I’m not certain what was done to it. I think it was rebuilt with a new face and converted to 140 mph, but don’t know about the ring. Pat Pryor did all of the work on the gauges.

 

Thanks for that @Anderson, do you know who carries the dropped headlight stands as I have a nice pair of 682J's which I'd like to put on the wife's 33. Was not aware that they were available.

 

Cool!

 

I have police speedos with both kinds of rings. The rolled on kind, and the wider double step which actually has a couple screws holding it to the housing.

 

Thank you, I didn’t notice the 140 maximum.

 

Nice work indeed. That thing is juuust right.

 

Thanks for posting! Nice to have the details even though I have known J.D. and his dad for a long time and have seen the car at a few events.