They are located using sleeves or hollow dowels. I used dowel pins on the rear mains. The notches ground into the lower edge of the cylinders are to clear the REM rods. Taylor Engines set the block up to use 2 piece SBC rear seals. I use the tan high performance seals as they are a little narrower. The outer edges of the AL adapter is where they leak. The oil migrates around the AL seal adapter so the fix is to seal the joint between the AL and the block with good old JB weld. And, no, it doesn't weld the cap to the block
That's the system I like best on old engines too Cap location is repeatble and less apt to weaken the cap.
Bluto, You can also use precision studs and billet caps or use your old caps with studs. repeats great and if you use a new rear cap its easier to cut any seal design. Very important to line bore and then line hone the better the machine shop practice the better your engine will run freely and smoother. The engine should be blue printed as they go paying very close attention to every detail. fixturing is number one in my book! Bill S
Bill S Everyone has their way of doing things I like the sleeves. The require no clamping force to locate the cap The studs must stretch if them don't the cap is not tight The how can you get proper crush. Without crush heat transfer suffers. I think here are several reasons for the development of tri-metal steel back shells. I do like the oil pump
Thanks, HotrodA I am thinking about moving your way TN. I hate the cold weather and want to retire and move south. maybe Tallico but I need to find out all the do's and don'ts I would hate to move and find out they don't like old cars and hot rods.
Bluto, I don't think I follow you on the no clamping force and heat transfer. The studs have a ground register area at the parting line that the cap slides over the same as you would have with a hollow dowel and does not affect the clamping force. My bearings are designed with crush they have to have or they would move around in the bearing housing. Heat transfer is not a problem at all. Thanks for your feed back there seems to always be another way to skin the cat so to speak. Just wondering do you live the east coast usa? Bill S
Hi Bill S We live in Poland .... coast here is in the north I guess I always look to High Speed and then reduce the revs and stress It may not come into play with an engine run at high revs of nano seconds at a time The thinner the sheii the faster the heat is transfered to the caps and block The strongest and thinest bearings are Clevite 77 style but again if the motor isn't loaded hard it's all overkill. Sorry I didn't see a step in the studs I am the guy that slides into first on a walk. And like we both say there are many ways to get over the problems.
Bluto, Poland you said? I am a Tool and Die maker by trade 5 year training 41 years ago, Poland has some of the finest Tool makers! I worked with one as an apprentice. I doubt the weather is any nicer in Poland as it has been here the last 2 months, too cold for me anymore. I will post a better picture tomorrow of the studs they are under cut radius in 2 areas and they can stretch but the tensile strength is very high I can not remember at this hour but I believe 240,000 psi after heat treat. Bill S
Tellico Village or Tellico Plains? My folks have a cabin about 45 minutes from Tellico Plains, in North Carolina. That area is great. It can get a little hot in the summer but the spring and fall are amazing and it definitely won't be as cold as what your dealing with now. Seems to me old cars and hot rods would be a perfect fit around there. In my area everyone would be jealous because your cars run and theirs are yard decorations. A hot rod in those mountain roads would be tons of fun, but the As might struggle a little.
HotrodA-you wrote "Red Rocket, that's some beautiful stuff. Your machining?" Looks like Bill Stipes germ free shop to me---is that what the S stands for Bill? Herb
Sorry it took so long to get back to you. The Gallivan is an eight valve head with the intake and exhaust valves at 110 degrees to each other plugging into a hemispherical combustion chamber. Still working on pictures of the patterns and cores which fill a box 3'x2'x3' high. I heat treat everything that needs to be machined
Very interested in the thoughts on studs I have had problems with head studs in the past. I am about to fit my Rutherford head which requires long studs or bolts what are the thoughts on this and also the use of sealants/ lubricant on the shaft of the stud [The head is ally] thanks Rusty
Jaguar, that is Tellico plains area if I have time to go look this spring and see whats all there. I need to be able to get supplies like steel and alum etc to build my car projects I don't know whats in that area only heard it pretty county with lots of hills and trees. I was hoping to get away from the humid weather in summer being up in the mountains. I have about 5 more years to work yet but thought of planing now. And Yes Herb that is me. I don't know about germ free shop but we do try to keep it clean. More people seem to know me then I them, too many names and the older I get the more forgetful I am!
Thanks for taking the time to get this information for me. I appreciate it. I'm assuming this must be a crossflow type of head. Really looking forward to seeing all the patterns and core pics. Thanks again, Mike
The Jalopy Journal
