Re the manifold either use adaptors or custom build Re distributor I have stripped an old Simms mag kept the end plates and reduction gears [half crank speed] and am making a distributor drive to that I will make a gear oil pump out of aluminium stock to fit in where the magnet was and use the side drive I looked at making a cdi ignition but it was getting complicated and looked non trad 'keep it simple stupid' your pops motor should look good hope mine will turn out similar
About Radii ..... this looks small ..... IT'S NOT. The crank is FLEXING and if there are reduced or damaged, like scratched by the crank grinder, the crank will fail! May not in your lifetime but that's the point of the tiny radii All engines internals are dynamic ..... the pieces are trying to leave the block and can't restricted by the blocks structure and the forces short direction moment. OK You say what keeps the crank from hitting the bearings and the rods from touching everything and wearing out very quickly? First part of the answer is oil! The oil has a PSI rating. Like water it in non-compressable when the crank and con rods move toward the bearings they can't touch because the oil is there. If there isn't a good supply of premium oil at the correct temp to do its job everything does touch!! And failure results...... This is only one reason why splash fed engines are not as good as presure fed..... at high speed ...they have a limited supply of clean fresh oil. Why can I run my splash fed engine for 10's of thousands of miles? Simple ..... You don't push it past it's limits very often. Again remember the oil is able to do it's job ..... even splah fed because the loads are within the design limits. Nothing magic. You start blting on speed stuff and running the motor at the edge or beyond it's design limits and boom crash..... The loads are too great. You have overcome the individual parts stress points and load design. Oil pressure is good..... the crank is fed nwe oil all the time. Comes out those itty bitty holes in the crank ...... as the holes are spinning the oil goes from the middle, where the is, to the outside across the bearing surface to spill out at the edge. This ''oil wedge'' clean fresh oil! AND it has to be there the 'Wedge' must be maintained remember. This is the reason for clearance. Clearance gives a place for the oil the be. As it moves outward it is continually replaced by more oil . Like water out of a hose...... Not only is the oil pump pushing it but the crank is spinning oil is flung to the outside of the crank also by this. If you don't hve a place for the oil to move freely no wedge..... BANG! So you need side clearance so the oil can spill out the sides and it is being replaced. OIL IS ONLY ABLE TO DO IT'S JOB FOR A VERY SHORT MOMENT! The squeezing of the oil wedge raises the oil to it's temp limit and it must cool a little NOT TO COLD. Just back within it's limits to maintauin the wedge As you push an engine it's internal loads go up dramatically. Improved oil flow are required. As more oil is pumped into the wedge, more clearance is needed between the crank and bearings ..... and you need more room for the oil to exit.... increased rod side clearance. If you try to hold the oil in it will not maintain the wedge and BANG If the guy building your hot rod motor doesn't know this move on.... take your money to someone that does. If he acts like it's your motor and not his move on. You must be as informed as your builder. AND he must act in your behalf to build your engine to accept increased loads..... if not .... BANG Go get a copy of ''Speed secrets'' .... there are no speed secrets in that book only common sense explained over and over again I am on my first cup-0-coffee so excuse me for typos and anything I have left out. You have questions? Don't ask please unless you have read and understand the book...... And please remember EVERYTHING IS MOVING. Not only round-round and up/down but every other direction possable. Even front/back! You have to keep the parts from touching.
Thanks Bluto what are your thoughts on modern oils what would you recommend many years ago Wes Cooper wrote to me and said that you should not need to use shell bearings provided the metal was of the right kind and you could keep the oil up to them i trusted his advise as he was one who would know pity he has gone this is why it is important to share information now and of course skills
I have 300 gal here of oil a friend makes in the US. It's an old style that I had some imput on. Change the oil often if your racing it's cheaper than motor building Poured babbit doesn't shed heat as ouickly as thinwall inserts. I like being able to drop the pan and change suspect bearings easily I never had a DNF with real race cars That doesn't mean I didn't have to do a ton of things between morning qualifing and afternoon racing. In the pits my cars were always on stands everyone was cleaning and lookibg for a problem BEFORE it hurt/killed someone. Racing REAL RACING all parts are stressed and will suffer...... You must always keep looking. My drivers were trusting me with their life.
Totally agree I now run shells however I now run old style penzol oil and if I cant get that I go to the budget general store about the only place you can buy old time oil i change the oil much more often than recommended so it almost never gets dirty i have never raced cars but have raced boats preparation is every thing and yes there is a big difference between a street driven car and a full out racer I love the look of a Hal but because my cars are street driven would probably not use one[do i have that choice] I tour long distances often on rough roads so I try to use parts which will give no trouble and are easily replaced but I certainly enjoy a well built special or race car met a guy in Sacramento with a trailer queen as very proud of the fact it only had about 5 miles on it after 6 years he took it to displays and shows and did not build it that would leave me dead but still he enjoyed it
couple pages back there was a HAL starter question here's ours We'll strip the car over the next days...... more photos to follow We need 16 and 18 inch Dayton wheels if anyone has some No spare gears for this diff.....
Thank you for your support..... Bartel&James ustta say that...... It was the king cheap wine pop drinks for those that are too young to remember... For the first time in over a dozen years the blood vessels feeding my heart are 100% open...... I am hoping that this means the reset button s indeed pushed! To those of you out there that have a bad heart I can say that if they can fix me you've a chance...... I have over 4 inches of stint in my heart now ....
Bluto; My god, you aren't just a pretty face are you? Wow! Are we ever lucky to have you and thanks for taking me (us) to the next level!! Ron
There are fewer retactable pens...... no races here only real goal is to be with my lady as long as I can...... already told her I want oatmeal for our 25th wedding celebration dinner......
Here is some more information for the diehard "A" "B" fans. Maybe fans is not a good term, builders or tinkerers might be a better one to use. I have been using, running, V8 flywheels for some time. Bought my first one years back at Long Beach in the amateur section, an 11.5 lb Al with ranked out holes that I bushed. My car weighed 1500 lbs. so it worked well. Had to go through all of the starter drive conversion and suffer through the hard assin' that comes with the learning (breakage) curve as with most modifications. So I took it further and installed one in a set up in a stock"A" bell housing. This being another AL unit from REM that weighs 16 or 17 lbs. Then I swapped engines and am now putting the 2 port in the RPU and as this will be my wife's driver I thought to use a stock flat head V8 flywheel at just 30 lbs. Should get her off the line easier. Well, guess what, it don't fit! So I scales (measure with small metal ruler) a stock "A" and use that dimension from the starter ring gear to the OD of the "A" wheel. Now, I don't have immediate access to a lathe large enough to turn it so what the hell, I just throw the rotary table on the mill and have at it. I cut .125 off of the OD, a lot of dialing, and it still wouldn't clear. The stock "A" bell housing has raised portion on the inside in the area where the wishbone ball fits and that was where it rubbed. So I took it back out and cocked the head over to 60 degrees and commenced cutting the corner off of the flywheel. Moved it over another .125 and it seems to fit. Hope this will save someone else from a hassle. It weighs a little less than 30 lbs, now.
Hi Guys The "Ulmate Banger" sub-thread seems to have gone quiet, so I thought I would use one of Dan's posts to kick it off again He has mentioned too of the subjects I am most curious about ............ stroking, and current versions of OHV conversions So ....... what is everyones experience with stroked Bangers and ........ what is the relative pro/cons of the 4 OHV heads Dan has mentioned. I have seen picies of the Serr Cragar and it looks like a nice piece ........... the others I know less than nothing about and of course I note that the Yapp Riley wasn't on the list, and the Frisk heads have already had a explicit report multiple times here. So lets "Bench race" stroking, and OHV heads .........
If you want to race get a Cragar if you want to win get a Riley (J Brierley just posted that quote on the barn in a similar thread based on heads) The only OHV that beat my Winfield repop stroker flathead times at the 66 hill climb were 4 ports. I believe the name is Fisk, might be wrong. I guess you missed the earlier discussions regarding strokers. I know of one that was offset .125 and it had over 20,000 miles on it but it was a flathead driven on the street mainly but ran the Antique nationals and hill climbs. I don't know of anyone at this time with a stroker OHV. I guess the initial expenses of building the OHV preclude the expenditure of the additional cost of setting up the stroker which can be on a short fuse. Ask Dan. Also, there are cubic displacement limits at some venues. I would suppose the "D" with a Al. Miller type would be the ultimate dual use but cannot compete in most "Vintage" events. These are just random thoughts off of the top of my head. As to the Yapp or Fisk heads neither has proved themselves at local events.
The cost of racing is always established by how much someone else is will the beat you. The fellow making the 5 main is a nice guy, dedicated, but they are really a way off still
I agree we are on the fringes of advancing banger technology at this point in time the only proven technology is the model d and that has been around for a number of years however I follow with interest the thread on the Hamb where a head is being milled from a billet of aluminium this is not the first time this has been done the ardun banger head is something similar but does not seem to have huge following . If we look at the modern Toyota twin cam motor fuel injected supercharged and super fuel efficient. I have seen mention of another block being developed cheaper and 5 main carb wise we have not developed much beyond old sidie v8 carbs or the 1930s winfields is this just following tradition or are we stuck in a rut. Most of the well known overheads were developed by individuals often with not much more than home workshop facilities why are we concentrating on repopping the old heads [much as I love them]Tradition is good and that is what the HAMB is all about but should we concentrate on hiding modern tech inside our motors????
Went to visit a fellow crazy one time. He had 4 valve twin cam model T head he made in High School in the 30's Sadly he is gone and so are the castings and patterns
Where to Porters end up on that scale? The "Since 1931" bit has me thinking they're banger appropriate. -Dave
Whoa...hold on..wait a sec, back up the hot rod.....Gallivan's ORIGIANL PATTERNS SURVIVE!!!??? Holy cow...you have no idea how BLOWN AWAY I am right now, it has always been a dream to put one of those babies on my 26' T roadster! .....So how many of my kidneys do I need sell to borrow that pattern and make a re-pop for my roadster?
I'll need to get them down and take some pictures. I have 5 casted unmachined heads sitting on the shelf. here is some history. <TABLE style="WIDTH: 100%; BACKGROUND: #e5e5e5; mso-cellspacing: 0in; mso-yfti-tbllook: 1184; mso-padding-alt: 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt" class=MsoNormalTable border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%"><TBODY><TR style="mso-yfti-irow: 0; mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes"><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; PADDING-BOTTOM: 3.75pt; PADDING-LEFT: 3.75pt; PADDING-RIGHT: 3.75pt; BACKGROUND: #f2f2f2; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #e5e5e5 1pt solid; PADDING-TOP: 3.75pt; mso-border-right-alt: solid #E5E5E5 .75pt" vAlign=top>Here is the information from the log book, stacks of notes, and writings on the boxes of the Gallivan DOHC patterns. The first entry indicates that George Lyons purchased the patterns at a government auction of Jack Gallivan's assets. Jack must have messed up. George Lyons sent the patterns to Joe Jagersberger (the RAJO man) to convert the valve actuation to the cup rack system. Joe Lencki borrowed the patterns next. Next there is a reference to Slim Rutherford which I can't make out. George Lyons sold the patterns to Charlie Kozen. Don Lockwood bought the patterns from Charlie Kozen. Joe Gemsa borrowed the patterns and casted some T based heads and then converted the patterns to mount the head on the A/B block. He used cog belts to drive the A/B cams. The patterns then went to George Parker and they were reconfigured to the T block. The patterns then were sent to Chuck Davis and he made two samples. The next user was Russell Potter who "lost" the gear tower patterns. Tony Vershoore was the next to cast up some heads and remade the lost gear tower patterns. He returned the head patterns to Lockwood and sold the gear tower patterns to Dave Szumowski. I purchased The patterns from Don Lockwood in 2008 and some gear tower castings from Dave Szumowski. There are some excellent articles about the Gallivan heads and others on Northwest Vintage Speedsters web site, www.nwvs.org Go to the technical section, click on vintage Ford articles--by subject, then under RAJO click on RAJO DOHC or Speedsters-Fronty-Rajo. In the meantime you can go to my website, which my kids have created for me, to see pictures of some on topic racecars. Also check out the link to Gary Bridge and Iron at the bottom of my home page to see some dynamite iron. www.buymegivemetakeme.com <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o> </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
The Jalopy Journal
