Technical ***January 2024 Banger Meet Thread - Happy New Year***

Is any one else using this combination, a nu-rex timing strip and a Yapp small diameter pulley. I installed these yesterday, set 0 or TDC using the pin and my timing marks do not agree. The pully is premarked for 20 degrees retard and 30 degrees advanced. When the motor is at 0 by the pin, the 0 mark on the pulley is at 9 degrees retard on the nu-rex. Am I doing something wrong, or should I just remark 0 on the timing strip?
Warren

 

Pretty sure the front cover timing pin does not set TDC- it positions the crank/cam at the point where you would set the distributor points to open. Some smart person needs to chime in and tell us what the crank position is when the pin is engaged. You might ask over on Ford Barn.

 

This might shed some light.
https://www.fordgarage.com/pages/timingcovers.htm

 

"What the Hey! Doug!" Did you catch my car going from universe to another? Or was that some darkroom chicanery? Wild shot, never-the-less!

I feel that I have to apologize for the harsh words about the WRA. However I think that they would be well served that along with their 'Play Days" the should have learning sessions including written exams for all aspects of oval racing for to ALL . This instead of the usual Driver's Meeting instructions before they go on to the track.

 

Will have to have a read of that one...

I dropped into a mate of mine locally & he's putting a B motor together, welded on C'weights, we were chatting about piston options & aftermarket rods,
What combo have you guys used?
It looks like 283 pistons are the right bore size, & SCAT make rods in different lengths but only in A big end sizes.

 

So this weekend was mine to work on my own junk, made pretty good progress.
This is a old style build, scrounged pistons from 283 Chevy, modified "B" rods etc.
So, yes 283 chevy piston was proper bore size, but the CH is not high enough to make up compression.
I found this set, or 1/2 set of TRW 283 11:1 pistons, it should net 9.5-10:1 on the Gemsa head, good enough.
These rods are bored and honed for Volvo bearings, bushed for Chev pins and narrowed.
The main caps are 7075 alum, main bearings 1055G TRW CL77 and 2 pc Chev rear seal.
Of course crank is drilled and welded rear flange. This is going in my coupe with a SOHC Gemsa head.

So just a few comments, the Scat "A" rods are pretty good, I think the crank will be the weak link with 1.5 dia pin.
I did a motor with them, 4.5 strk billet crank and 11:1 4 port Cragar head, transmissions are now a problem.
AER Antique Engine Rebuilding was offering "B" rods and this is probably the best bet, especially if they offer it with Chev pin bushing. Crower and others offered them in the past, I hear rumors but not touched any.

IMHO, pistons will be the issue for 3 reasons;
1. most modern pistons are now metric dia so look for something like 98.5 dia.
2. Compression Height, controls final CR, most modern pistons are much shorter than stk Mod "A/B"
3. Rings package, the modern rings are necessary for better oil control and reduced drag.

If you are going to race this, custom pistons are the only way to go, I like Ross, get your wallet out.

Best, John

 

Thanks John, great info, my friend's engine will be a street only, bar a possible blat at a dirt drags,
What Rods did you use in this engine? Stock crank/stroke?

 

All things said; if you are to be running that engine much over 3,000 R.P.M; put a harmonic damper on the nose of that crank. Without that it is not if; but when you will break the crank back near the rear main & flange!

 

The normal VW distributor retards #3 cylinder. It's the one shrouded by the oil cooler so they wanted that cylinder to run a little cooler. The 010 Porsche distributor has the all firing correctly.

 

The timing pin does not set TDC. This is the best method of getting true TDC - https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/accurately-determine-piston-tdc/
When pulley diameters are different the distance between each degree will get smaller as the diameter decreases. Find TDC and use the scale that is on the pulley.

 

On another note, anyone seen this style of A fan before?

 

I've only seen 1/2 of one before - but they are notorious for breaking. Buy one of the aluminum ones.

 

I'm not sure I'm following - did the Yapp pulley come with the timing marks? or were the marks transferred from the timing tape? I'm not trying to be a jerk, but the timing tape is only for one certain diameter pulley or balancer...

 

Yikes! Is that one of the riveted ones?

 

The Yapp pulley comes with the timing marks. It doesn't matter about the diameter of the pulley, 0 degrees is still 0 degrees. The Nu-rex timing strip is stationary and mounted to the front engine mount bolt. The timing pins brings the motor to TDC or 0 degrees, I have the head off. Wait a minute, I was reading somewhere that they used two different motor mounts, one with 9" spacing and the other with 6.5" spacing. Is this correct, because if that is the case, the 6.5" spacing would align the marks.
Thanks
Warren

 

The fan through the hood looks like the cast model. Different beast completely. Several styles shown here.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...l1311&_nkw=model+a+ford+fan+blade&_sacat=6000

 

I was pretty confident it was a different type of fan, I have a few original pressed/welded types, this is the first I've seen like this with the rivets... Another mate who has rebuilt lots of bangers hasn't seen one before either

 

Yes 0 is the same on both pulleys - but diameter does matter when reading degrees. To make it simple draw a circle with a 36" circumference then one inside it with 18" circumference. 360 degrees on the out side circle will have 10 degrees per inch. On the inside circle there will be 10 degrees in every 1/2 inch.
The timing cover (is what I assume you are calling engine mount) went through several revisions. The B had the timing hole in a different location. https://jmodela.coffeecup.com/t_covers.html

 

Yes, I see what you mean. I'm going to get rid of the Nu-rex and make a nice pointer closer to the pulley and forget this visual distortion. The A pin detent was a 0 degrees and the B I think was at 6 degrees.
Thanks
Warren

 

Riveted fans like that were common on British cars, I have one somewhere of a '50s Austin.

 

Sad news:

Sad to say a pioneer in modifying Model A's has passed away yesterday, Ron Mosher

.

 

Yes
Ron passed peacefully yesterday at home
All too quickly for those close to him
Not sure yet about services but will update as is released
J

 

Mark your calendars for April 14, 2024 4 Ever 4 is holding their Antique Nationals at Irwindale Raceway in SoCal.
https://www.foureverfour.com/

 

If anyone is looking for a damper for their engine. The guy in New Zealand has them in stock now.

 

What diameter, are they degreed, how much, who is the guy?
Warren

 

OD is 5", not degreed, $350 delivered, Murry Horn (sorry he is in New Zealand) horn@xtra.co.nz.

.

 

thanks
Warren

 

Anyone going to Turlock Swap Meet, we will be in the building across from the building with the snack bar. We are in the corner by the roll up door across from the license plate guy. We're 2 spaces down from Steve Serr and the Miller High Speed Head booth. See ya there!!

 

Are you bringing a plethora of goodies to ogle and buy? I'd dearly love a set of fine tooth straight cut timing gears.

 

If anyone takes pics of random banger stuff at Turlock, I would love to see some pictures.