Like a split or rusty seam? Yup. empty the tank below the leak point. Make sure you wire brhsh it good to get the flakey rust off, and clean it good with brake cleaner. I recomend JB Quick, because it sets faster so there's less sagging. -Jeff
If you go to all that bother. Why not just remove the tank, throw some rocks in it, shake the shit out of it... And use an internal tank sealer. Not hard to do. Other than maybe having to buy new tank support straps.
Mac used it in the panels gas tank, and has worked like a charm. (Since last year anyway...watch he comes home cursing like a madman because of a leak.)
Alvin Products LAB METAL is actually designed for that purpose, never used it but you can find it in Eastwoods Catalog.
And a good friend of mine,Rick Norton used it on his gas tank to fill a crack and it has not failed since......that was 5-6 years back....I used it to fill some pinholes on my 97's and it sealed like a charm....it just wont work on bonding two parts together(like glue) .again thanks to all for the info on my previous post!
J.b. weld will work temporarily, whether it's a month or years. All of the prep work that you would have to do it would be just as easy to weld it or have it welded. A lot of prep work will be necessary either way you go about it. What is the tank out of? Are you planning on ever getting rid of the car? Done properly the welds will last you a lot longer than the tank will. Maybe there is a Hamber in the area that does welding? Anyone??? Just my $0.02..
JB weld is glorified duct tape. For a temporary fix, just to get you out of a bind, I'm sure it'll work. I'd look for a more permanent repair or a replacement.
I can tell you that the gas tank radiator patch that I put on my blazer twelve years ago has never had a problem, bought it at the auto parts store like two sticks of clay. knead two equal parts and stick it on like a wad of bubble gum and forget it. I did it as a roadside repair. didn't even wipe the tank off because it was leaking like a bitch in Sacremento. I hoped it would get me back to Portland. I watched it like a hawk for a few day then forgot about it (except for times like now)
Use Permatex Gas Tank & Radiator Repair. http://www.permatex.com/auto/autouc.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=80884
I used JB Weld and fiberglass strands on my tank where it had a thin spot with numerous pinholes about 1 1/2" square. Seems to be holding up fine.
I wouldn't do it. Get something that's designed for constant gasoline exposure - I'm sure there are plenty who have had good luck with it. But that's all I'd classify it as - luck. I'm a big proponent of JB Weld, but it is the modern duct tape (I like that analogy)
I charge people an extra $35.00 to remove their "fix" prior to actually welding it. Weather it's a boat or a gas tank... When it doesn't work it just makes it that much harder to weld. 1) Wash it out with soapy water 2) Rinse 3) Fill the tank with water. Leaving a slight bubble. This pushes out the fumes. 4) Rotate tank so the crack/hole is on top and the bubble is behind the crack. 5) Now weld/solder it. Some old timers will solder a penny over a puncture, too. JB Weld? Man oh man... JOE
in an emergency you can also rub a bar of soap (ivory seems to work the best) over the crack or pinhole. seals it right up. i fixed some pinholes in my '65 vette tank with it and it lasted for years.
I tried it once. It worked for a few weeks then started leaking again. Just fix it right the first time; unless you're out in BFE and need to get home.
Well, I had a bug back in my vw days, and it was severly lowered, so much so that the tie rod rubbed the bottom of the gas tank, and eventually rubbed a hole in it. I emptied the tank, flipped it over, cleaned the area, and slathered on some JB. Waited a few hours and put on another, thicker layer for "abrasion resistance" Put it back together and drove it for a couple more years until I sold it. Never leaked again.
The Jalopy Journal
