I'm a JB Weld fan, use it for lots of stuff, but I'd opt for welding on this. Do it right and you'll only do it once. You couild use lead, if you know how. I've had dura-glass work OK, too, but welding is the best way.
I've not seen a lot of highly respected build threads gooing in the JB weld to gap the chop on this forum, or using it to metal fill a set of hand fabbed bat wings. I have seen a guy use an aluminum roof from his shed to metal work his 71 LTD as well, as a matter of fact I had one hell of a time not rolling over it on the instate at 60 mph when it caught wind and wanted to greet the side of my truck. There are many paths to achievement, chose the one with the least ass apples and the trip will be more pleasant.
I have a friend you fill all the trim holes on his '48 pontiac with JB and back all the holes up with a penny that was 15 years ago, sold the car about 2 years ago and still looked fine. I laughed my ass off at him when he done it, he said that it would out last the rest of the car.
that rear end mounting is nothing compared a pic i had on my old computer, it was a front end that was held in with trailer hitches. i stole it off here a couple of years ago. that was crazy scary looking.
Once I had to use a rear fender that was full of pin holes after blasting. I taped the holes on the outside and J Bed them on the inside - put on a nice heavy coat of epoxy primer. It has held up now for 8 years. I also once filled a antenna hole by J Bing a patch to the under side. I only do this on primer cars
In 1990 I experimented using JB weld for body repair. I installed patch panels on both sides of the car, and also patched holes on the top of each front fender. On one side of the car I made conventional welded repairs, on the other, I attached the patches with JB Weld. I still have the car, and twenty years later, each side is still holding up just fine - you cannot tell any difference one side to the other. I talked to a chemist who had concerns about the life cycle of two part epoxy, but this obviously hasn't degraded to the point where it shows after 20 years. About 10 years ago, I contacted the JB Weld company and spoke to someone there about using this product to attach entire quarter skins. They did not recommend this as a good repair for unibody cars because of the stress, and the structural nature of unibodies. Just my two cents - I've had very good experience with this product. I've used lead, weld, and polyester fillers. I've heard all the different opinions and take them as they are - opinions. But properly prepared and applied, each has it's own merit. I bet most of you've seen metal rust, and lead corrode, and I also bet you have seen old pieces of Bondo that appears ageless. Polyester and epoxy has a very long life cycle. It's all in the preparation and correct application. Old Skool is cool, but that doesn't necessarily make it better.
My experience with JB is if it isn't an important repair works great. Soon as I really need it to work it fails. I would weld the holes. Trick is to put a magnet on each side of the hole. Absorbs, the heat, and holds the metal. Then cool the metal, and the magnets, before you do the next hole. I oxy acetylene everything with very little warpage. But I've been welding for 30 years also.
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