Good step in drilling holes in the cap. My wife had a similar problem with her O.T. 318 Dodge, dying when warmed up (in cold. damp, foggy weather) Tuneup artist that she is, she pulled the cap and noted it didn't have a 'vent hole', so she drilled one only, (.125") Never another ignition problem. She mentioned it was a red flag when she noticed there was no hole, as there always is. Normally?
Hi guys. Answering to the last replies, the cap on the last post i shared isn't mine. It's mr Chaumont Bugatti's cap that he sent me pictures of so as to show where and how to drill the cap. I have the spring and point that is attach to it, no problem. And the engine shut down because at least 5 teeth (approximaetely a 100 degres of the circumference of the gear), where most badly dead. Have a good day. Regards. Rod.
Good afternoon fellow members. Some news from across the ocean !!! I finally received my gear, washers and springs from F.IE's mr Miller who was very helpfull in helping me understanding and trying to solve the issues i had, as you all did and i'm very thanksfull for that. I'd like to install the parts to restart the rod but i'm not fairly sure how to properly put the washers and springs. I don't have any blueprint or pictures to help me out with this. Maybe someone on the forum could share his experience with me. Thanks very much for your help. Looking forward to reading from anyone. Have a good evening. Regards. Rod.
Joe Hunt has the instruction's on their website. It might be easier to read them there, than for one of us to try to explain it to you. Also, the website has picture's for reference.
Yes thank you. I manage to print the How to instal the mechanical advance plates and figure out how to put the sprins on though the pictures are not of very good quality...but it's done. The mag is back on the car. I'll post back when i have restart the rod. Be safe and thanks a lot.
Make sure you use a set-back timing light to check your total mechanical advance - as even with what "should be" the correct advance plates - they can vary quite a bit. I bet you had fun getting the mag bottom to get through those plates . . . is always a science project! LOL
Good evening and thanks for the answer, it's really appreciated. It was a bit of fun indeed but what i did to make things easier was to slide the spindle in the advance plates first, then slide the base and it went quite well. I started the engine 3 days ago, i did as suggested in the Joe hunt instructions, with the buzz box. I first had a bit of difficulty to start the engine and had to twist the mag, it started again and it runs rather well but not very very smoothly. I don't know if it's part of the fact that i change the cam but it's a very mild one, nothing extreme. As i wrote months ago, when i check the mark on the damper with the strobo, it is up to " 12 oclock", right on top of the damper, way out of the engine tag, as if i had maybe 50 degres of initial timing !!!!! I try to figure this out but i don't understand why it is so. If i turn the mag clockwise to reduce the advance, the engine dies. I put the clamp of the strobo on every other plug wires to check if maybe i offset the wires but the damper mark was way out of sight... I'll try to get a video of what i have and post it soon, it may be more usable.
Lots of folks have had issues with the damper outer ring sliding/rotating on the hub - when it obviously is not supposed to. When the ring slips, the timing marks mean nothing. I had this issue on a recent SBC 350 - had to replace the harmonic damper. This is a pretty common problem.
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