Technical John Deere Blitz Black Problems?

I just had my '55 Chevy sprayed with John Deere Blitz Black--- it looks great, but the paint is so "soft" that even lightly contacting it leaves a "shiny" scratch mark--- not deep, but permanent none the less. Has anyone else had issues with this or have any ideas as to what the problem may be?

I never heard anything but how tough this paint was when I decided to use it.....

Now I have to figure out if I need to repaint the car before we put it back together.

Any info would be helpful!

 

Did they use hardner when they shot it?

 

I just checked with the shop and the only thing they used were John Deere thinner and reducer....

 

They should have used hardener too.




Don

 

Hardener is optional. It should dry to the touch within an hour or so. It's just an enamel paint. If they used the wrong reducer or put it on to thick, it may take longer to dry.

 

They claimed it was drying about as fast as they laid it on, and the paint has been done for over a week now. If you draw the backside of a fingernail over it softly, it leaves a line that looks like it was drawn with a lead pencil.?

 

Then they did something wrong. They may not have waited long enough between coats. About all you can do is park it in the sun and wait until it's fully dry.
They shouldn't have used thinner and reducer. It's either one or the other. Enamel based paint requires reducer....thinner is for lacquer based paint.

 

Sorry your having a prob,but shiny is always the way to go,primer was not a finel finshed,it was on the way an some never got to the shiny,yet no one I knew though primer even looked good in the 1950's or 60's,but why todays trend of dull paint is even around is a wonder to me. Maybe ya can buff it shiny an you'll be good to go.

 

I used it on my truck and had no issues at all.Was the first time I painted anything in a number of years.Just followed the directions on the material.I used the jd thinner as recommended.It did seem to flash pretty quick.I just put down one lite coat with the second a little heavier in about 10 minute span.It was dry to the touch in less than an hour.Its pretty durable and easy to fix if anything happens.I did seem like it liked to orange peal pretty easy if you laid to much down.

 

had the same problem, would mark if you just touched it with a soft cloth. the only way I could get it off was wet sanding. would never use it on anything

 

Old style enamel paint takes at least a month to fully harden, esp. without hardner. Remember in the old days you were told to not wash your car for at least a month after a paint job. You will have to be older than 45 to remember this.

 

Thanks for the info!

 

What you are experiencing is a common this with flat paints,whether its a utility paint or a flat latex house paint,,they are not designed to be washed and stay nice looking,,the finish is just like primers,they streak & scratch & leave shiny spots.

That is the reason I switched to the Kirker S.G. finish,,it's been on my truck for 8 years now and still looks good. HRP

 

Let it cure, as mentioned above. Then, soap, water, the finest scotch Brite, I think it's white, get the scotch Brite from an auto body supply, not the grocery store. The scotch Brite will even the finish out. Go in straight lines, not circles.

 

I used a similar "Agricultural enamel" with the correct thinners and hardener, it was soft as poo for a couple of weeks, but eventually hardened up to a very durable finish. 115 degree weather helped this drying process too.