Technical ***July 2020 Banger Meet Thread - Four Is A Good Number***

I understand there were two stock b cams,one higher than the other.I defer to you guys that grind,I use calipers and measure lobe height,and nod my head like a donkey when the words duration and actual lift get thrown around..

 

Seriously?

 

Yup- a Stipe 340. Really nice piece and got here in a week! My old cam was badly worn in the distributor gear.
New cam gear and drive gear, advance slots polished up good in distributor...
-I might actually be able to get my timing sorted in an educated way. I like the look of the combustion chamber in my Brierley head. I just rounded off the sharp edges from machining. I shall report...

 

Gotta find a push rod and use it to run the wolf whistle..that would be annoying huh..

 

Where have I been, somebody must have lifted a rock.

Still no word from Tod about the 5 main. "getting closer"?
So frustrated with this whole ordeal.
I almost think he is afraid to finish it.

.

 

I'm trying to think of a good alternate use for the fuel pump lobe, wolf whistle is good heheh

Another thing- Big thumbs up to Steve at Bert's Model A. Always good service, even hand written notes on invoices.
-Super fast and no rapeage on shipping. I can't recommend them enough!

 

Dan,
sorry to hear that, at this rate TB and TB are in a dead heat.
I missed a Donovan motor last month by 4 hours, not that I really needed one, but you know.........

John

 

just mho ............ steve

 

Donovan and 5 main blocks..good lord you boys like expensive horsepower..


Purely from a business perspective there is a whole lot less risk casting heads than casting blocks..just like inserts vs poured bearings..

 

Expensive? It depends on your perspective.
If driving down the block to get a pint, yes, if trying a run at Bonneville, no.
My best run at Bonneville took 21 seconds to cover a mile. Burned the valves out but the rest is still together.
When asked about the experience, all I could say was that it is like sex, didn't last near long enough.

John

 

I understand racing but never got into it.Money is nothing but fuel for the fire..hell my kids would be eating the putty out of the windows If I stuck that needle in my arm..no doubt.They say a man needs to know his limitations..

 

Railcar
The only way I can participate is to make my own parts
I never said it was smart
The satisfaction is seeing it run

j

 

Well, I've been talking to Jim Brierley and decided to go with one of his heads for my B-engine.
Hopefully I want regret my decision.

7:1 CR and a .040" relief over the pistons.

 

Mikko,
While I do not run any flatheads currently, I can tell you this.
Jim's sparkplug position is advantageous over the stock location, much better for performance.
With that said, you will need to limit the amount of total ignition advance from stock.
Not knowing which distributor you have this can be done with springs if automatic.

John

 

Yes, Jim told me that about 20* advance was max for his head.

Was thinking about using a FSI distributor since they seem to be the only distributor that are available new and easy to get a hold of.
Would prefer something like a vintage Mallory or something like that but it seems difficult to find a good one that is not worn out, atleast here in Sweden.

 

You might want to consider a stock Model B dist. I believe they only have 20 degrees total advance and they are period correct. Plus they are easy to play with.

 

Stock Model B dist. would be an alternative.
They are centrifugal advance and not manual like the Model A, correct?

 

Yes that is correct. Just make sure there is no play in the shaft and the bushings are good. Also check for bad springs in the weights area before you purchase one.

 

John I imagine the intensity of the rush is outstanding.The joy and satisfaction of seeing your work perform is something a check writer will never witness.

 

This is Dave Renners instructions for modifying the B distributor. Drill a 1/16th hole in the cam screw as well #12211 to allow you to lube the inner shaft..Pan is correct,inspect flyweight plate for cracking and spring condition and the inner shaft for galling. I drilled my upper plate for modern points and condenser.Once you do those lube mods on a good distributor you're golden,I run a bosch blue 35k coil with mine,mapped advance @ 1 degree per 100 rpm with a cheapie tach and strobe light,dead on.

 

thats what poor peeps have been doing all my life

 

Did mine end to end brother,mechanicals,body,paint, interior..hell I even broke down and mounted my own tires..next time Ill farm out the sandblasting,no matter how poor I am I'm not doing that again..

Some areas my skills are adequate,some areas they are lacking.as the french say "c'est la vie", such is life..

 

******* my minds eye sees what i want to build , but my hands arent so talented . i see if it will work , then figure how to make it look better ......... or not

 

I have done machine work all my life, blessed with the ability to do it.
Now, body and paint is another story
My buddies tell me I should be an interior decorator, I can paint curtains everywhere.

J

 

Finally was able to get everything back together and start rippin around in this old beater.Seat of the pants dyno says the fresh motor with all the goodies pull pretty good.Need to get the special head finished and see how that works.

 

Communicate with the fellows at FSI. They were talking about changing their advance to use Mallory springs and they may incorporate a advance limiter...it's worth a call or email in my mind or...go with a Model A dizzy and work the lever...

 

Ahww, you got head gasket
Glad you found time to drive the beater...that's what it is all about

 

what do you think it is ??

 

Funny how things work out sometimes.

Today I got a hold of a Bosch distributor from an old Volvo or something, modified to work on a hopped up 4-banger. It was free so I'm going to try it on my engine and if it doesn't work out, I'll contact the guys at FSI.

 

You and I are on the same page, mine came the other day and is in the new engine I'm putting together. I'd post a picture but it would look the same. It is a very nice piece of craftsmanship. I'm going to be interested on how it performs. I was in the process of putting in the drive for the dizzy/oil pump and the main body is cracked, broken in two. I was thinking about a new one so as to eliminate any vertical play that might mess with timing.
On another note...
I installed the 'Modern' rear main seal, the one you have to stretch over the crank flange. In their instructions, they say to pressurize the assembly thru the drain tube to leak check...the leak was between the cap and the block.
I'm starting to think that is probably where most rear main leaks are...not out the back. So I put a light coat of Loctite 5699 between the mating surfaces. It is setting up and I'll see where it leaks next..