Technical ***July 2020 Banger Meet Thread - Four Is A Good Number***

what is the bar from rear end to the wish bones for ?

 

Open drive shaft ,no torque tube?

 

With an open drive line the pinion wants to rotate up under acceleration and down on braking The torque tube kind of works like a lever to keep that from happening
The picture is one I found hear on the hamb not mine

 

Open drive triangulation link, from experience, not sufficient.
Don't ask, hairy ride.

J

 

25mercury, SOHC Fronty and a Schubert block that is the stuff dreams are made of. Any idea what oil pan you will use with the V8 trany. Gary in MN

 

Ford tied the radius rods and torque tube together at a trunnion,allowing the rear suspension to oscillate freely. Heim joints with two or three different anchoring points cause a bind.Worked on an automatic transmission conversion that had no torque rod to transmit axle roll..the radius rods worked loose,the axle rolled 20 degrees on acceleration..the cat who did it said he had a bunch of conversions to do,asked me if I wanted in on the deal...nope..

 

Too many build split wishbones and turn the rear end into a ginormous sway bar. Not of the faint of heart.
The set up pictured will work nicely as it will not bind. What I am referring to is the third link attachment points (may need more reinforcement and possibly larger link). I know this from experience, breaking the top link, then the drivers side radius rod and turning the pass side into a rainbow. It happened pretty quickly, in about the first 50 ft of a pass.
The new setup is quite different.................John

 

Block home from Bob. A bit of a mock up going on here.

 

Check Hot Rod Works item # SKU-1153 , Good picture of bar on open rear app. for 35 to 40 rear.. made mine up to use with reinforce stock rear rods. Adjustable tie rod link kit from. Speedway

 

I'm hoping/thinking that that puny 'bar' is not taking the place of the torque tube !!

 

I know this torque arm stuff is off topic . Acceleration and the puny bar “ might” be ok but stop in a hurry it will give up. Also with the radius rods joined how does the drive shaft fit in the picture.? Ok lowering the front pivot point will work to clear drive shaft, but will certainly screw up drive line angles to way less than ideal .

 

My radius rods hook under the transmission as the old did with a boat thrown. But I took it out for a test ride without this arm and twisted both of them up when I hit hard acceleration just try it on a Hill . Had to buy new radius raj and then add AA support under the bottom of the radius rods them stiffen him up Then at the torque arm double shown at rod works using 316 steel pieces on each end and I made up . So far it seems to be working. I'm running AT5 with a quick change rear in open draw a shaft.

 

The pivot point is key,it has to pivot smoothly,Ford put a trunnion the apex of the suspension triangle.Ford also used the driveline for rigidity,this allowed the use of a flexible frame,the frame is not designed to bear the full load of alignment and suspension,its more of a platform for the body.

 

i was just curious , as my little banger , open drive shaft (s-10) , is using after market wish bones as is my front . coil overs in rear with a pan hard bar . seems to be ok ...........

 

Used 1/4” strap welded on the seam of a stock radius arm 15 years ago and never any issues. B engine with T-5, CRAGAR head puts out 59 HP at the rear wheels

 

My next one will have coil overs and stabilizers on the rear,that system works well with an open driveshaft. I am going to box the rails too,the pan hard transmits load to the frame in a different way than ford designed. Going to keep my stock A chassis and running gear car as well,like the way a model a handles and rides.

 

https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7450&p=110790#p110790
Good thread on a homemade Bosch mag belt drive system.

 

** john i agree . seems like if rear rolled , it would crush the little link .... but ive told told i dont know crap .......... so go from there .............. steve

 

Steve,
not to worry, there are a ton of "Old wives tales" on the web and unfortunately old cars are attracted to them.
The upper link in the picture is in tension upon acceleration (the housing wants to rotate the top rearward)
Braking is just the opposite, that would cause the link to compress.
In the car I had a similar setup to this, at the drag strip it pulled hard on the rod and snapped it off, when that happened, the housing rolled back breaking the passenger side radius rod and bent the left on to a large arc.

The current setup is a '35 axle and brackets with spring over the axle housing (in "A" frame and spring)
I made up the radius rods from 40-43 wishbones, welded to '35 brackets and then added 1/4" thk web on top of the arms and tied into the '35 brackets. These come together under the trans with heim joints. I no longer have the top link.

 

Those certainly look stout...

 

I have been fighting my banger for 2 weeks now. Starving for fuel, idles great, revs great. Get in to go around the block and quits like it doesn’t want to leave the house. Replaced carb, fuel pump, bypassed filter, ran from a hose stuck in a gas can. Which has same gas from the tank. Hard to start, need to shoot starting fluid. I just noticed the two liquids in the fuel bowl. Water?
I have been running this thing for a year and it all started when I took the driveshaft header off and put reds header on. I did leave it sit outside for a couple weeks and it rained, but tank is freshly painted and sealed with new cap. Got me baffled.

 

Yup, that's what water in gas system looks like , i.e.- gas floats on water, eh!
I'd drain system, clean and put fresh fuel in and you should notice a change.in its running.

That clear sight bowl was a good idea on a model A.

 

I took fuel pump line off and pumped a gallon out into a can. Fuel in bowl swirled around and cleared out, must have cleaned it out into the can. High idle for half hour and started a few times. Sure seems better, but not enough guts to take it on the street yet. Maybe tomorrow
I will drain this and refill with fresh. This one kicked my ass

 

I had a similar trouble with my 31, low flow from the tank, used some compressed air blew back from the fuel line into the tank, better flow now, debris in the fuel tank, is my issue I think.
Brendan

 

Fuel injection hose clamps don't cut into the line and clamp better..

 

Those certainly look stout...
yes it does look good . guess im lucky on my set up .
thats water !!!!!!

 

I will amazon some of those clamps

 

I would recommend not using amazon clamps
Better quality is available with something like Earls brand
You get what you pay for
J