I may have a line on a good B engine. Does anyone know where I might find a magneto side drive ? I have a good Edison Splitdorf magneto to fit a side drive.
I put another gauge on the external pump. We got 50 to 75 p.s.i. The gauge on the dash of the car has been checked at the same p.s.i. I'm getting plenty of oil into the gallery. The other gauge, put on the line, between the gallery and the rocker box on the head, verified that there is no pressure head being built up in the oil gallery. In that I've already replaced the side cover gasket; I'm pulling the pan. The only problem with that is getting the RTV, slathered on by another mechanic, to release the pan. RTV used liberally in the engine, might be my problem. Who knows??? Incidentally: There IS a pressure relief valve in the system. It's in the external pump; and working fine. I really appreciate the input. Every little bit counts. I took the car by the shop of a seasonrd race designer/builder (he's forgot more than most of us will ever know). He was as puzzled as I!! JK
OD, could the feed line from galley to rockerbox be blocked? I have found balls of silicone blocking ports and bearings. Maybe just remove the fittings and verify clear. J
Thanks John, Yes, all external lines are clear ard running oil through. The system has about 14 quarts of oil running through it. The oil is trapped in a bunker (below the pan), isolated from the crankcase by two horizontal baffles. The oil is pulled out through a GM vortex shielded pickup. A non- pressure 1" line takes the oil from the bunker to the pump which is driven by the crank. From the pump, an 11/16th" line (tested at a pressure of 50 to 75 p.s.i goes to the filter. Two 5/8" lines go to each side of the main gallery. A 1/2 inch line, which has been tested to 100 p.s.i., goes from the gallery up to the cylinder head. There is a restrictor on the head. I hope to see what is inside, sometime today. The pan needs to come off anyway, to get rid of the gobs of RTV. I've got good results with clean, straight parts, good gasket material and Permatex Hi-Tack JK
This is a little off topic, but I thought I would ask here. I would like to go to Bonneville this year. I need a room. If you know someone that has an extra, please let me know. Thanks .
Fellas, I have a model B banger with an original 6:1 Winfield head, a Winfield 'R' cam, and two Winfield down draft S-AA carbs. I've always had issues with the front carb leaking gas, not only externally but internally into number 1 & 2 cylinders. I've re-kitted the carbs which has taken care of the external gas leaks but the front carb still leaks gas into the intake ports for cylinders 1 & 2 if the roadster is sitting there parked. I've included an image I found on-line of someone else's Winfields so that I could point out from where I believe the leaks are originating, please refer to the attached image. I would appreciate if anyone had any experience with these carbs and could give me some tips or advice. I've also provided an image of my little banger. It's only the front carb that continually leaks gas, thanks. Chris
Fuel is leaking past the needle or it is not set properly. Have you checked the fuel level in the float chamber? Does the float needle appear to be seating correctly. You can carefully lap it in with some fine grit . . Fuel level should be at the bottom of the threads at the fuel level port in the side of float chamber. Book says with engine running I set them with fuel or fuel pump on with engine not running. It sounds as though the needle is not set right . See if float lever is not reversed or loose. If it needs to be adjusted remove lever from cover to bend, old pot metal may break bending lever in place. Also check float for pinhole leak. shake it, see if it has any fuel in it. Put it, the float, in a pan of hot water and look for bubbles.
Bore sizes? Had a test bore of my early 28 model A engine, at .100 over it looks like the pitting will not quite clean up in the bad cylinder when taken to .125. As I planed using insert Snyder's rods, I could use the other insert rods they sell for running standard Chev 283 pistons? Anyone using oversize Chev pistons in their "A", 283, 327, 350? The block is going to be tested for wall thickness and offset bored first (to keep the gap as big as possible between cylinders) but looking for info on running such a large overbore. Thanks Rich
Hey RussTee, I'm using a rebuilt factory mechanical pump with no regulator. I understand that Winfields are very sensitive to fuel pressure applied. Would a regulator set to 1 - 1.5 psi be needed?
Winfields should handle up to 2.5 lbs easy if not then lap the float needle. I think the 32 ford fuel pumps put out about 3.5 lbs
I was also thinking around the 2.5 range therefore a reg may be needed I like to run two seperate fule lines from a one to two fuel block to try and keep equal pressure to the carbs
I wonder how his parts would mate up with the Donavan aluminum model B engine ? For the last couple years there has been a guy trying to sell one at a local antique tractor show. These being all antique tractor guys, nobody has bought the engine. Last year I didn't have my coupe and had no use for an engine. If it's still there this year I may jump on it.
I reread your post and see that you wrote the carb leaks while sitting. If the engine is not running it is not pumping any gas so I don't think it is too much pressure but the float needle is allowing the gas to leak and over fill the carb, maybe ! It would help if you would post any updates !
Well, I think I've found the reason for the loss of oil pressure. I dropped the pan. At first, everything in the crankcase seemed clean and in order. However, After uncovering the oil bunker below the pan (I've got an series of horizontal baffles that traps about 10 quarts of oil, well below the crank), I found a twisted piece of metal that looked like a strap. Looking closely, it appeared to be thinwall bearing material. I peered past the crank and rods to inspected the cam closer. Sure enough, the rear cam bearing area still had another fragment of bearing material protruding from the block. The engine is coming out (no mean feat). It remains to be seen what further damage might be lurking; and the reason for the failure. JK
OD, There have been many articles written on oil galley mods for the B motor. I would pay particular attention to crank feeds and restrictors. Good luck, John
What would be considered traditional engine bay detailing for a banger please show examples of say airfilters coils fuel lines ect I am finding it hard to find examples of this other than the likes of miller type race cars which of course where highly detailed it would be nice to see some examples.
WARNING: The photos you are about to see are graphic in nature and may not be appropriate for all audiences! Finally found time to dig deeper into the spare engine...not pretty! I measured the end play of the crank at the timing gear/front bearing cap with a feeler gauge. Used the .007 gauge in the pack, shifted the crank, and remeasured with the .007 removed. It wouldn't go in! Sooo.... I removed the rod caps to find: The rod journals, from 1 to 4: Pulled the head, found: Cylinder #1 bore: #3 cylinder has a broken top ring. All cylinders look like #1. Lastly, I wanted to remove the main caps, but several turns of these yeilded no progress: Am I missing something on removing these square-head bolts?
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