royal purple has a water wetter that is supposed to be better than the original water wetter . i think the generic is water from the tap . bill , your car will be mad if you dont at least talk to it ! ..................... steve
About the intake manifold for the Ford/Weber carbs. Does the Pinto carb use the same intake as the one built for webers? Can you buy just the intakes for them, and how do those Pinto carbs work. I have a couple I was going to use on a dunebuggy but ended up keeping when i sold it.
Good advice Bill, I like to wander up and kick my tires while I have my car at our friday night sonic cruise pretending its someone elses car to see what newbies to the scene react like . I am gonna go on a late afternoon cruise right now as stated last night. Gotta get out and enjoy em fellas.-Weeks
If I can't driver her hard... I like to rub her headlights... ;-) At the end of this week I will have driven my car every day to work all but three days in 4 weeks I wish I got better the 13 mpg my truck only gets about 15 and the car is more fun so if I have to go to work I am going to have fun getting there
Hey that used radiater only had a 50 50 garantee on it if it blew in half , you own both pieces.. Hope this is not a problem.
Shittt that things held up great Ken, I appreciate it alot still. I had it hot tanked and checked, painted it with a hi temp paint and have drove the hell outta my car with it on there the whole time. I may swap with a B radiator eventually as I have a Holy Grail item in my collection now. A real Model B Grille shell with insert both are ORIGINAL un messed with. IDK though, when I mocked it up on my car it kinda felt as though I gave her a nose job. Wierd to get a part I have wanted for a long time to just go hmmm its kinda outta place.-Weeks
Weeks, I have enjoyed a Cheeseburger at the Sonic in Bakersfield on a Friday night a few years back. It is quite a "show" Bakersfield is really a "carguy's" town. Neat cars and neat people. Almost all the guy's I know live in Oildale. We used to go to the March Meet and the Hot Rod Reunion every year. Floyd Hanson (fat boy) would set up his barbecue made with a 32 shell (commercial) behind the stands and cook spam and hot dogs on it while Jim Richardson would barbecue Lamb chops, served with fresh French rolls and this was free to all.I believe a local Sheep grower donated the chops and another car guy worked at a local bakery and brought the rolls. "Those were the days my friend" " We thought they would never end" Boy's, it is hell to get old!
I just replaced the stock Model A Ford Engine in my 1930 Pickup with an inserted presurized balanced Model A Ford Engine topped with a Charlie Yapp 7:1 CR Riley Two Port OHV Head. All was going well with setting the valaves, setting the timeing until this morning. I began to fill the radiator with 3 distilled water for the inital start up. After 2 gallons went in I heard dripping and it was coming from between the head and the block on the drivers side just above the water inlet. It is just a drip in 4-5 places. My question is: Do I continued with filling the radiator and start the engine with the drips assuming as the engine heats up it will allow the head gasket to seal? The head gasket is a solid copper gasket and the head has been torqued to 65 ft-lbs dry so far. In looking throught he spark plug holes, the cylinders look dry and a long Q-tip pocked into each spark plug hole also come out dry. Any advice or comments appreciated. Dave
Dave these things don't heal themselves.... I have found the prayer dosen't even help..... but having dbeen a sinner for so long perhaps I have forgotten how. Please fix this BEFORE starting a new motor!
I suggest you either check the block or head and see how flat it actually is. Here locally a few people who have purchased the Snyders high comp head have immediately had to have it milled till it was smooth and flat. The problem you described I had also with my head to block seal pissing water out. As a greenhorn in the hobby in comparison with most of you banger brethren I lack first hand experience and have to learn stuff through trial and error at times just like anybody else. I put my engine back together and was ready to fire it up for the first time. I used a cheap-ass head gasket from chinnnn-aaa (get a good one American made felpro is what I use now), had not gotten the head milled to take care of any warpage from 79 years of its existence, and I did not use a copper head gasket sealer (first head gasket was aluminum ). I would get it milled, good felpro 3-layer sandwich head gasket, and the copper spray sealant, then you should be ready. Just my .02 from experience.-Weeks
Dave- A solid copper gasket will never seal unless both block and head are PERFECTLY flat--within a thousandth or so, and then will need help from some type of sealer. Sandwich gaskets allow more joint irregularity because they compress in the close areas, and then touch at the wider spots. No way in hell are you going to compress that solid gasket (ever if annealed) with the number and size of the head studs. I wrote to Yapp about this when he started sending the first heads out, and he ignored it. The second batch, he changed to a composition gasket. Send him the solid one, and tell him you want one that works in exchange. He will tell you that your block isn't flat enough (which it probably isn't- but then neither is his head in all probability). If he tells you that there is nothing wrong with the solid gasket,ask why he changed. He has a very limited knowledge about engines. Herb Kephart
When you pull the head lightly drag a fine long file csross the block In addition to everything else I bet the area around the head stud/bolt holes has pulled up some..... please chanfer these holes. And don't forget to fiile the edge around the top of the block and head Clip a small chunk offthe gasket's corner. This allows you to measure the gaskets crush. If you measure every 10flb pull and the measurement suddenly opens you have studs pulling or starting to streach Check the measurement in 24hrs later you may be surprised I hope not
with the leakless water pumps how often do you guys grease the fittings if at all? i have a small slow leak form the bottom of the shaft closest to the engine. will a pump of grease fix that or should i just replace the seal? im not sure if the leakless rear nut and seal illiminated greasin it? also heard to much grease will just blow the seal out
I agree with Herb's last sentence! There are such things as Sodium Silicate (not positive on spelling) that flows into gaps and cracks and seals as the engine cools and it is exposed to the air. Years ago it was called egg keep and it was the main ingredient in liquid block sealers. But, there is no mechanic in the can! I'm wondering why you chose to start with a "Solid" copper head gasket. That is a usually a fix for sealing very high compression and takes special preparation as stated before. 7 to 1 is not considered high The copper gasket must be annealed before each time and surfaces must be dead flat! I don't think they will seal on the finish left by some surfacing machines, too coarse. I just spoke to a firm in Lancaster Ca that manufacturers solid copper head gaskets and they have an annealing service. You will have to use something like Hylomar (Their recommendation) on the gasket and especially around the stud holes and as Bluto said you must look for "proud" threads in the block. I believe C Yapp makes a composition gasket. I have tried to use a solid copper gasket and never did stop it from weeping on the left side. One other thing to remember C Yapps head gaskets are different than the ones made for an original Riley head and according to some are not interchangeable as C yapp changed the configuration of #1 cylinder combustion chamber.
I went with the solid copper gasket because that is what came from the engine builder. I do have a couple of the composition gaskets that Charlie Yapp produced. The interesting part is that the weeping is only occuring on the left side of the block.. The right side seems to be good. With these, should I apply the copper paint to both sides of this type or use it straight from the package. Dave
Shoot I did not realize you were dealing with a Riley set-up, doesn't the Riley require a special head gasket? Or can the Felpro gasket #7013 I have shown above still able to be utilized? Pardon my not knowing just speaking from my experience with stock compression Diamond heads and high-comp heads designed off of the original Model A heads that were high comp heart shaped ported with B cast on top of them that have been re-popped persay.-Weeks
This engine is new and I expexct cist you some money. Please don't hurt it needlessly. Take your time and take it apart. Find and fix what is wrong! In the long run you'll know more about your engine and save money HONEST !!!! There are many guys here willing to walk you thru this here. It could be as simple as the gasket. I would suggest a little WD 40 in the bores for now just incas there is water you don't see. Cheap insurance
As I said, my problem was with the left side also. I mean, here you are building a "hot rod" so it naturally stands to reason that you need to use the solid copper as this is race stuff, must be! I tried the solid gasket on an engine that was 9.5 to 1 and, although I never detected any sign of water leaking into the cylinders I just didn't feel like I wanted to run with a weeping gasket. I tried some radiator sealer but after discussing the problem with some serious race people I took it off and tried a $8 plain composition gasket from Antique Auto. With some of those Winfield "Crows foot" Heads there is a very thin web between the valve chambers and a "stock ""B" gasket will over hang. The plain composition gasket held for a couple of runs but blew at a hillclimb when I told my son that he should be turning 3 grand when he dumped the clutch in a 2nd gear start. So I have the copper gasket hanging on the a wall as a conversation piece. I use copper sealer on both sides unless the manufacturer recommends some other sealer.
Whatever you decide to do to fix the problem, follow Bluto's advice for now. I have always felt that IF your block and head were flat enough to seal with a copper gasket, they are flat enough to seal with just a coat of Halomar--after all, there is no guarantee that the copper is uniform thickness within a thousandth. On my four cylinder Chevy, I lapped the block and head together and use no gasket. I did, just for safety sake, cut O ring grooves around the water holes in the block surface, but if I were to do it again, I would forget the grooves, and just use Halomar. Herb Kephart
Herb, what are your thoughts on useing aluminum spray paint as a sealer? I read a long time ago it was suggested. It seems like it should work because it can be put on in an even coat, not like brushing the copper coat.
back when head gaskets were steel , we always used silver paint to seal them . silver is the only one i know of that works for sealing .......... old time fix ...... steve
Nob!! Not only does bread come sliced...... even in PA BUT Copper Coat comes in a spray can!! Herb I have UK Gal.s (5qt) cans of Hylomar they are cheaper than just a few tubes at Pepboys
New thread has been started fellas for August...... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=498092 I found out very early this morning. Its got some cool happenings about a banger running Bonneville.-Weeks
Nobod- Silver paint works fine, as others have said. Harley used silver paint INSTEAD of head gaskets on their flathead 45" K models, both stock , and racing. Aluminum head and cast iron cylinder barrel running a lot hotter than a liquid cooled engine--lots of expansion and contraction differential --and it still worked. Harder to clean off than Hylomar when you pull the engine down though. Herb Kephart
First road test yesterday. Ran out nicely, but it loads up unless you stab the thing. Two 97s might be a little much. I'll try to rejet them first, but may end up going to 81s. Only thing left is to hook up the overdrive. Concluded the night at Santa Paula Cruise Night with a pint at the pub. A good Friday night.
i tried everything with my 2 97's on a 4 banger . could not solve the rich problem to my liking . went to 1 97 on scalded dog manifold . it got faster & much better to drive ! went back to colder plugs even ...................... steve
Not even a rattle of a lug nut before I was draggin ass and my wheel passed me at 30 mph. Good for one's prayer life.
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