Thanks for the video daddyo!! wish you had left the camera on all day, I could have hung out and watched that stuff for a long time...Thanks
Problem with thick shells is that the don't transfer heat as quickly as thinwall design. So no matter how thin the top coat is thinwall steel backed bearings will always out preform thick ones in a high load application. This is why boring thick bearings and fitting thinwall bearings isn't an effective high load solution. A good and steady supply of clean oil at 80C is needed as well
Hey Daryl- Aint nuttin worse than being ignored by friends! I dug a crank out and measured it- These are "accurate" to within possibly a thirty-second of an inch. If you need something closer PM me and I will get it for you. A,B andC I didn't measure, but you can get there from the other dimentions. D is 4 5/32, all dim's in inches (sorry about that) a- 3/8 b- 5/8 c- 3 d- 3/4 e- 1 1/2 f- 2 15/16 g- 1 1/2 h- 5/8 i- 2 1/4 then there is an unlettered space, (which is 5/8) J- 7 3/16 (INCLUDING the unlettered 5/8) k- 2 3/16 then the timing gear seat- 13/16 then the pulley seat- 2 1/4 Hope that this helps--but that wide center main messes things up every time. Years ago I remember reading that there was a crank from a Hercules Diesel that would fit (or could be made to fit) but don't remember if it "fit" an A or a B- probably a B. I had a 4 cyl Herc. here at one time, but it was 1 1/2 Fords long. Herb
Thank-you Herb, that will help a lot. 'Imperial' measurements are fine & +/- 1/32" will be more than sufficient for an initial look. Like an A, both the engines I mentioned have a larger spacing between cyls. 2 & 3. Hopefully it is enough.
Side drafts Some of the pics are out of place but I'm sure you can figure them out. This is a group of pics showing the various components of my new set of sidedraft conversions. First are the pieces required to fab a new manifold, You are going to need a sidedraft manifold so I included the pics of mine, then the finished components along with the welding fuxture. I made up a pair of blank pieces that held the finished balance tube in place, they were a little close and I had to bore them out. Then there is the new linkage I made. any dual Winfield's will need good linkage, no slop! The next is the adapters themselves. They must be clocked right, the first set Of side drafts I set up were one down and one up draft. In the pic the one with the studs is one of the original pair. I laid them out and drilled the holes using a new gasket for a lay out guide. I drilled the hole for the ports or passages and planned on setting up my rotary table to machine the passages but one night with nothing else to do I cut the passages with a Dremel type tool and a six pac of Coors Lite. The current set were done on the rotary table. I include the gasket pic because the current style as sold on Ebay has too many holes and I was afraid the thin webs wouldn't seal so I made up the little die and punch my own with 1/4" holes. Also a word of caution, if you use the original studs that connect the float chamber and the throttle they will protrude and hit the float chamber unless you shorten them or use thicker material for your adapters. I use a 1/4 28 allen flat head screw to hold the plates and recommend loctite on all threads, especially the flat head screws. Ask me why! I hope this helps. The last pic is the finished piece installed. Ask me how it worked. The last pic was taken after the race. I use just one choke and key the other one open. If you look closely you can see the adapters in place. If you look real close you will see my high tech wire holding the distributor and if you look closer than that you will see the small dia. copper wire as safety keepers on the sparkplug wires at the plugs.
Nice job Bill..... I can appreciate all the time it took to do that..... So the big question is how do they work as side drafts? And did you run these at the Antique Nationals? Photo of a Ford race during speed week at Daytona 1927. The second car without the hood has what appears to be a Fronty.
OK so its not a banger,the block from my 30 Essex Super Six is just as grungy. Looking for a special recipe or favorite procedure for degreasing this lump without killing the babbit on the mains. And while I'm picking the collective brain,any ideas on what would have caused this gouge in the topp of the #1 cyl? The piston and rings from that cylinder looked normal. The only idea I have is that the boring bar got away from them when it was built.
Yes, we ran them sunday, as to how they work, I ask how does 82.7 on an ET of 15.9 for a first time 18 year old driver sound to you? His second run was against a "T" bucket with a small block that ran 80. I think they work. Actually, I didn't do any fine tuning on them. I had to open the idle needles quite a bit more than the book said or more than I figured. In fact, I had to open the intermediates up just to get the engine to idle. Idle port is fed by the intermediate well on Winfield's. And the pumps are blocked off. Although some people shy away Winfield's in reality they are actually very forgiving.
If I look close I see... an incredible amount of knowledge, experience, mechanical skill, clever modification & attention to detail. 'No Tech' my butt.
not trying to highjack but I just had to show what I just bought, an old buddy showed up earlier and asked if I would give 50 bucks for this old distributer, its a Mallory yl11f and came with the original box and paperwork which is dated 1970, and it hasnt ever been installed. you gotta love buddies who always have an eye open for ya.
Petroleum solvents (Kerosine, Diesel. Note: Petrol (gasoline) is effective but very dangerous and NOT recommended). plus a stiff brush and lots of 'elbow grease'. Have fun
A couple days with a tub of mineral spirits did the trick for my Chevy... and a stiff brush with lot o' elbow grease!
I got to play with my car tonight... do you think this would make my engine smoke real bad and push my oil out the rear main? work starts in 5hrs good night...
they can take it down nothing to steal , it all burned up in the fire. And by the way I worked in a dirt floor garage like that in the late 50's. Flat rate was $2.75 and I did not get half of it either. No air compressor just hand tools n electric machines, was my first job as a mechanic and I loved it
OK so its not a banger,the block from my 30 Essex Super Six is just as grungy. Looking for a special recipe or favorite procedure for degreasing this lump without killing the babbit on the mains. That's easy, have an engine rebuilding shop clean it in a wash cabinet. They use special soaps, hot water and high pressure, not caustics like a hot tank which would harm the babbitt. Any good sized rebuilder should have one. The block you see in the photo is sitting on the turn table which turns slowly while it is cleaning.
For real stubborn caked on old grease i use an aerosol oven cleaner. Not sure if it would damage babbit tho. You might do a test on some old babbit. I used it to clean an old flywheel housing and it ate the paint off.. Just used some on a tractor engine and again, it took it down to bare casting. This was on the outside. I/we scrubbed with solvent first. I use it outside on a warm day.
Do you remember that garage that advertised in the early days of TV in LA? Real cheap rebuilds. I had a friend that went to a trade school in LA to become a mechanic and they got him a job there after he finished the course. He said that if the engine didn't knock they would pour Bon Ami down the carb and some times it would lessen the smoke and a valve job consisted of hitting the valve while on the seat with a ball peen hammer. If it was an overhead they would pull the head and fill the combustion chamber full of gas and if it didn't leak it was good but if it had a slight leak out came the hammer. I think it might have been called Lou's Garage. In later years I met an old time race mechanic and he told me that in the early days they would grind the valves and seats and the seat width would be 1/32 then they would tap the valve on the seat instead of lapping. He said that it only had to run 1 race.
Are you using new studs? The A and B are not the same gasket. I have had good luck with the gaskets Bill From Ford Barn... http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4677
Sometimes you can find a deal on a old Hobart dish washer These are stainless steel and work really well
The Jalopy Journal
