HELP! I just wired up the 31 everything went great, except no matter which way I move the headlight switch all I get is Brights and Parking lights... It is a stock style switch (aftermarket) Stock style switch rod ( aftermarket) stock style harness (aftermarket). I put the switch at 6 o'clock position and the spider at 6 and 12 o'clock position everything went on fine, but all I get is full brights and running ligts at the same time.... Any clues?
I saw earlier in the month a discussion about placement of the wheeel cylinders on model a rearend mechanical to hydraulic brakes conversions. I finally got around to taking pictures of mine and somebody spent quite a bit of time putting this set-up together. They had to grind the shock mount and use an elbow to get the line out from behind. You have to take the backing plate completely off the rearend, then take the line adapters off before you can get the bolts holding the cylinder on off. I am in the process of rebuilding them right now. So here ya go. Was a real ***** to get apart versus Chris's set-up, but it is sanitary also in design.-Weeks
I love it, but then I'm a little biased, as I'm kinda partial to low Fordor Cee-dans... 'B' frontend, one leaf removed from a B spring with standard eyes, T rear spring with one extra leaf, and the spring clamps replaced with strap as it bottomed out a bit easily when all that body weight started moving. The car. Not mine.
Tonight I got about 2/3 of the way through steeling out the T body with 5/8" OD steel tube. Just gotta frame around the door, the cowl and also the door itself. Next week the running gear arrives and I want to get the body steeled out by then.
I have the 'barrel drive' starter drive in my coupe with a V8 flywheel and clutch with no problems. Stock, rebuilt A trans, and I shift at 3400 as fast as I can move the lever. Yes, Jim B is a prince a**** men and a king to us 'banger types. Fearless
Hey Weeks? I like that elbow set up since I've not seen that before. How hard is it to bleed those brakes? Is there room to put a bleed hose on the drain valve, or does the fluid go all over the rear axle, or can you even get a wrench in there at all to bleed them?
Yes, you can get a wrench in to bleed them but the problem I saw is that they cut the ****** off the bleeder for clearance. So fluid is gonna go everywhere when they are bled unless I can pinch a rubber line in there. Kinda ****s but I am not gonna undue the work that was already done to make this application work, just rebuild it and run em as they say. I will take pictures of the re***embly and post them.-Weeks
Greg I like what I see but am a bit worried about the use of the tee ch***is three points 1 they flex a lot 2 they do not like to be welded 3 the motor becomes a structural part of the frame ie solid mounted I think a box section ch***is or A ch***is[zedded and wheelbase adjusted may be better] Just my 10 cents opinion Rusty
ok who has a good picture or even better yet maybe some drawings of an adapter to bolt your motor to an engine stand for dissasembly/re***embly i am trying to clean up my b motor and i want to be able to give it the full treatment, but i dont want to do it on the bench or on the floor thanks again tk
Thanks Rusty 1 - T ch***is going to be blown apart and bolted together like an early Miller race car. 2 - maybe dont like to be welded due to the flexing? 3 - motor will be rubber mounted - ch***is will feature an X type member out of folded channel that will allow to retain the early style but tie things together a bit better. The thing is that I am being VERY careful to spend NO money on this or very little as I want to keep progress going on the 32
thanks crazy, thats what i was thinking of or something like it anyway the overhead t motor is killer tk
I've been told to be careful mounting an A engine with an adapter that bolts to the water inlet because the weight can crack the casting in that area. Of course, I don't remember exactly how he did it, but it was off the flywheel end.
Well wish me luck, just got the rear tires mounted, all the rims painted, wiring issues figured out, and ready to load up and head to the Hot Rod Reunion in Bowling Green KY... It did its first burn out going up the ramp to the trailer (yes I am goldchaining it this weekend never driven it further than 4 miles from the house since I bought it and 4 Hours buy modern car is to far for me to be brave this weekend.... Maybe next year)...
There is nothing wrong with trailering a car. Just as long as thats not the only way it gets around. Nice coupe. Show us some more when you get back. .
I spoke to Mel mallory of FS ignitions this morning and he informed me that they are now manufacturing a centrifugal advance replacement for the 32 34 "B" distributor that will give 28 degrees advance. Said it drops right in.
At about $450 It's also a direct Money replacement for your wallet!! Get one and watch the money drop right out! The Zipper is $450 - http://www.fsignitions.com/FSI_ZIPPER.html This one is $280 - http://www.fsignitions.com/FSI_DISTRIBUTOR.html EDIT: OOOhh.. you're talking about just the mechanism in a Ford factory distributor, not the entire replacement unit. gotcha.
They also have an electronic conversion kit for the "B" distributor for $ 150 and change including the coil.
Hey! I'm running the FS Ignitions Pertronix "A" distrib conversion in my coupe. Not knocking FS Ignitions as a company as all. And yeah, my Coupe fires up on the first kick also..... every time!
Bill I've a mallory 2-point with a pertronix set-up inside on my GMC 6. I carry a Vertex mag as a back up. Never had to use it.
Progress by Sat night of this weekend is this. Next is a couple more days of gussets and fitting seat riser and toe board then running gear should be here
The Jalopy Journal
