June Banger Meet - All new in '09

I have better luck setting the float level with the engine stopped and car on level surface. BUT if you find that you need to change the level I would advise you to remove the lever from the cover as some times just bending in place will break one of the bosses for the lever pins . Or you can support the lever with needle nose pliers. Then you can measure and bend the amount needed. I start with the intermediate needle opened to 27 or 28 clicks. I have not read the instructions that come with the kits but the adjusting instructions from some C Yapp articles state that the idle mixture controls the fuel but they actually control the amount of air. The more you open the idle mixture needle the leaner the idle mixture will be.

 

Thanks, I'll try that tonight! I did notice the plug on the side of the bowl.

 

Thanks bill, I'll check the float and go from there. I messed with the inter. shaft, but the instructions just said to click it counterclockwise until the engine quite stepping up in RPM. I understand what they are saying, but leaves it kinnda vauge!

 

That's my set-up shown. I just cut an appropriate length piece of water pipe in half and use them to even the pressure. Tack welding them in place is a good idea.

 

I have used the method from the winfield instructions, a color tune, and I have an Edelbrock fuel air gauge and the setting's all came out the same. I usually use 2,000 RPM's when setting the intermediate by the Winfield method. It is hard to see small variations on my tach. You will hear how sensitive Winfield's are but I tune mine at 3800 ft. and usually only have to tweak idle mixture some times at lower al***udes.. You have to realize that if they haven't been modified they are actually very simple. Some will have buildup in the throttle bore that can/will block the proper air flow at idle or coming off idle. Stuff must be from additives used in gas.

 

Is that not only true of S carbs, SR's are the regular way round.

 

Yes, I misspoke, as the politicians say, The "S" has a small br*** adapter with an air bleed hole in it while the "SR"idle mixture screw goes directly into the casting.

 

Can you put a neutral safety switch in a banger powered model A?

The other thread describing death and mayhem has got me concerned. Especially with my 5-year old running around. Although I haven't tried it, I'm pretty sure my car won't start without the key (the coil is wired through the switch), but I bet it will jump if it's in gear and the floor starter ****on/rod is pushed.

I'm thinking of putting a master battery disconnect in as another level of safety if the clutch/neutral switch is a no-go.

 

You would have to convert your starter switch to a solenoid operated starter. Then wire a clutch activated switch in line with the starter switch so that you have to push in the clutch to make the starter work.

I have a battery disconnect in my car. When I run a mag, I am not comfortable knowing some one could bump start my car and drive it away by just disconnecting the ground wire.
.
.

 

I put a disconnect in both of my A's bacuse I would hate to see one of em burn to the ground! Both are stock electrical systems.

 

Gang,
Looking for an finned aluminum aftermarket head for my B as well as a finned aluminum block off plate (preferably blank/un-branded but will consider anything...)

Not interested in any Yapp jobs with lizards or lions or dragons cast into them.

And does anyone have any experience with the Winfield rebuild kits that guy sells on the auction site?

Cris

 

I used a rebuild kit on my SR-D downdraft and it's working fine.

 

Hey guys I have started posting the build of my thirtes era banger powered T roadster here:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=374603

 

Hey guys spent the morning drilling my axle
just finished ck it out !​

 

I am putting a B motor in my A frame and I am using a K member for the rear ****** mount and a B front motor mount. I was going to try and use the orginal B rubber mounts but the A crossmember is to narrow. Any ideas what I could use? I see Sacramento Vintage sell a custom mount kit but I already have the B mount.Thanks Ken

 

I am thinking of buying this engine. The guy never had it running and knows nothing it will spin by hand any in put would be a big help. I need a engine to run til I build my other one. I dont think my engine in my car will last the summer.
Thanks Bill

he is asking $1500

 

Too much for an unknown engine in my book. If it had paperwork for a recent rebuild It would be ok.

.

 

thanks for the input I was thinking the same just needed a kick in the ***
But I still need a beater motor to run for the summer
thanks Bill

 

Be patient. Go to as many swap meet as you can and ask people who have model a stuff at those swaps if they or anyone they know has a runner for sale. I've p***ed up my share of "spare" engines at swaps for $600 -$800. But when I needed a short term runner, I was always just a few minutes late.

Many guys around here that tour a lot have spare engines. The next chance I get, I'm going to build a spare and stash it away.

.

 

It wont help me now but how much do you think a diamond B engine should sell for? It needs to be rebuilt its .080 over now all the parts are in a box

 

I spent $660 on the one that is in my car now. And it was running.

Depending on why it was torn down in the first place. If it has a known good counterweighted crank (not cracked and ground too far undersize), and a good block, no babit work needed, $1000 - $1300 would be fair.

If the crank needs work, new bearings and pistons, boared or sleeved, then I wouldn't pay more then $700. But that's me

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thanks for the heads up on the T thead
very nice work

 

Just wanted to share what I have going, and thanks to all of you for helping me get there.

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Cool Video meng and the banger sounds strong. Only thing that threw me off was what appears to be left hand drive steering box holes in your frame rails. Yes? Or am I slow tonight?-Weeks

 

I need my banger fix..... Is everyone holding out til next mouth
I went to Rhinebeck NY on sat. 4 or 5 bangers showed up It was nice to see
later Bill

 

Hey Bill,
I started posting my T build in this thread then started another Thread for that build.
I am finally getting my A running gear for the T late this week and then I will post here.
Thanks
Greg

 

I found your post the other day very nice work. Any pics of the engine build?
Bill

 

Engine is fairly stock with adj lifters and a Winfield cam