Technical Just a question for the masses. How to remove an oil fill tube

OK I have been doing this for a very very long time. Well a very very long time with limited success.

I know someone here must know a trick to remove the oil fill tube from a GM intake. I have removed a ton of them and seldom can pull it off without destroying the filler tube.

Who knows a trick or a proper way of removing the filler tube so that it can be reused later.

Can anyone enlighten me on this? Have you actually done it?

 

Round steel stock that will fit id of tube well or even a socket. Make up (your choose how) a clamp to squeeze the outside of tube then force will transfer against the insert with in the tube. Insert some how will need to receive a slide hammer. I hope all my jumbo made sense.

 

That may be the only actual corvette small block on the HAMB! I would try heat on the intake to release it and a soft blow mallet. I fought one on my Olds years ago.

 

LOL that is actually a stock pic, but I do have a gennie 65 300 horse Corvette motor in my '40 Coupe.

This is just something that has been bothering me for a while. I hate it when I cannot find a simple solution for a common problem.

 

On engine? That might be a lil tough.....Off engine- id'e use a wood dowel like you would hang your clothes on in a closet. I know......i'm no help.

 

Maybe go to the beach and find…

 

on car I have always used a rubber mallet and banged them back and forth. Believe it or not I have managed to save a couple of those.

I have tried wood, nylon, and metal dowels off the vehicle and to date have had very little luck. Granted by now I am dealing with intakes that have had them in place for 50+ years. LOL

They are not an expensive part in the whole scheme of things. I have a chromed TM1 that has an early model filler in it that I want to replace with the later filler. I cannot decide if I want to try and pull the one out of the vette intake to go in the eddy or just buy one. I hate to think about ruining a good original part.

 

Hammer

 

I wonder if something like this might hold where you could work it back and forth and maybe add a little heat to the manifold? Just a thought.

 

Off the car, just use a 1/2 drive socket the just fits the inside lip of the tube when it is
sitting upside-down. Use a 1/2" extension, support the manifold to allow for room for the
tube to pop out. and hit away.

On the car, if I was not going to reuse it, I have used a large pipe wrench with success as well
as pounding it back and forth. As stated above, they are not too expensive. Must have 10 or so in the box from projects.

If you want to plug the hole, use a freeze plug (expansion plug) of correct size and use the
1/2" socket and extension to tap it in.

 

Piece of rebar, bend the end over 90⁰ a 1/2" from the end. On the other end, bend it the same direction about 3" from the end. Put the small 90⁰ end down the tube, hook on the fill tube, and tap the other end with a ball peen. Sounds like it might have some loc***e on it.

 

Always a bigger hammer

 

I've only had success with aftermarket intakes that had been drilled for the filler. I had a thick washer that fit perfectly, welded that to a piece of muffler pipe and capped the end with a thick plate. Tap, tap, tap from the bottom and it's out, I think the old aftermarket intakes had a lip on the underside as a stop for the tube. BTW, the cheap aftermarket tubes are just that....cheap. They don't really fit well in original or old aftermarket intakes.

 

Hmm well other than what I’ve offered before I have a trick that often works but you need two people.

you need to complain via call, text or in person to this person about said un removable part. A week minimum. Longer is better but no more than three weeks.

then invite them over to display said un movable force.


They will then remove it with the lightest of ease.

works on all kinds of projects. Feel free to give it a try

 

Take a screwdriver with an appropriately sized plastic handle,,,,insert into tube upside down .
Wiggle it in a rotating motion,,all around the tube .
It should bring it loose after a few tries,,,,no problem .

Tommy

 

This! ^^ ! I'd bet most of them don't get installed dry. Who could resist the urge to install one of these with Loc***e or some kind of sealant? I think I've even seen some of them slathered up with a good coat of that nasty brown gasket shellac.

"There! That sum***** ain't never gonna leak!"

 

If you can find some of that freeze spray, spray it on the bottom of the tube to shrink it and then try to wiggle it back and forth while pulling up on it.

 

Well , I feel your pain ******. I got one out years ago with heat , penetrating oil and multiple attempts. Finally it came out while hitting it from the bottom with a socket. Several other times I destroyed them, probably because I got pissed off.

 

I completely destroyed one trying to remove it from a Sharp flathead intake a while ago. This was after trying everything I could think of over a period of two years. IIRC, the flathead intake had a "step" in the hole that prevents getting at it from the bottom.

Luckily, I didn't hurt the intake and had a few extra tubes.

 

I got mine out easy with a bushing driver from the backside. Had one that fit in the hole easily.

 

They are cheap to replace so i would just wreck it to get it out, some have an insane anount of interferance.

If you want to reuse it the best option would be to push it out in a hydraulic press. You are goint to need a press to get it back in anyway.

 

Thanks ******, great question that as you say select few will have the remedy...I wonder if dry ice in a bag wrapped around the base on the outside of the tube at the point of entry might shrink the tube and allow it to rotate out with a on sized metal or wood dowel packer filled tube and a protected tube with a vise grip or even the pipe expander Ronz posted...

I have thought of that because of thinking of replacing mine with one of those PCV Vette Tubes like you shared...does the one your using have the PCV? Heating the Aluminum or Cast Iron as Billy suggested but I'd sure be nervous hitting rare manifolds such as mine with heat from a torch...

 

There’s a position at the Old Brewery. You could work there and build up some experience removing the Bungs from the beer barrels. Whoops, I read that wrong. They need a Bung Installer. Sorry!

 

I would be careful (or remove intake), GM issue oil fill tubes haven't been available for years and the reproductions fit loose in GM intakes.

 

I have a homemade tool I built for situations like these breather tubes, and other things that need to be pulled. I bought an old slide hammer at a swap meet for $5 and removed the threaded end and welded it to the adjuster nut on an old pair of Vise-Grip pliers. Then I just thread the pliers onto the puller and either clamp them to what I want to pull, or make up a mandrel to fit what I'm pulling, with a tab on it to clamp the puller to.
When using it to pull a breather tube I made up a piece of pipe that slid inside the tube, and put old innertube around the outside and a clamp to squeeze the tube and rubber together. Then clamped my puller to the pipe and just banged it out with the puller. The chrome tube was perfect, and came out easier than I expected.

 

Lol there slogan is "Loc***e, yeah that'll piss em off"

 

They went to PCV in '66. At least that is the year that they ran it from the oil fill tube. The '65 was the first year of the screw cap on the tube, prior to that they ran a breather in the oil fill tube for a cap.

Locating a PCV port is not an issue on the older 265-327 blocks, all the small journal blocks had a provision for a road draft tube. Not all of them had the road draft obviously. It is a good place to locate the PCV, if the block does not have the tin can baffle under the intake that is not an issue either. Cal Custom and Mr Gasket both market a baffled PCV grommet and the grommet fits right down in the road draft boss. The issue becomes the filler tube if you are running that style intake. If you don't seal off the fill tube you are not ventilating the crank case, you are only ventilating the lifter galley. That is why GM went to the screw cap on the filler tube.

Just for giggles I decided to try a 710 plug in the older style filler tube just to see if it would work. NOPE!!! the 710 plug is too small. Oh well.

I am actually not using the GM intake. I will probably just leave the filler in the AFB style intake and just buy a 65 or newer style filler for the intake I am going to use. I just got curious if I was the only one who has a problem removing them.

 

similar to 1971BB427 I use two small sections of pipe, one to fit the inside and one the outside radius, grab them with a vicegrip and slide hammer and pop them out.

 

Here's my solution, which works slicker than owl **** on a green hickory limb. It's a good solution for pulling bushings out of blind holes, etc.

Get, or spin out on your lathe, a THICK washer with the OD just a few thousandths smaller than the OD of the bottom of the filler tube. Cut two flats on the sides smaller than the ID of the bottom of the filler tube (see diagonal lines in image where metal is removed to make flats). You end up with a "squared off" oval shaped washer. Put a long bolt or piece of all thread through the washer, making sure that the washer can tilt quite a bit on the bolt, (ie, 5/16 bolt and a 3/8 hole in the washer) slip the washer down past the bottom of the filler tube, then lift up a bit. The washer will magically straighten out so that it is now resting comfortably on the bottom of the filler tube. Now yank on the bolt with the slide hammer or whatever means you have to generate force.

 

I've used heat and this handle thing I have with a rubber strap built into it, not sure if it's for oil filters or Mason jars or what but once it starts wiggling it comes out un****hed.