this might be long winded. so the 302 I had in my 53 finally bit the dust after 2000 miles. the idiot that built it put the connecting rod caps on backwards and it ruined everything. so I bought a rebuilt roller 302 from the 80's. got it installed and it wouldn't run on cylinder 8. I pulled it and took it back to the guy and he said it was a defective head gasket. put it back in and it ran for 2 min before it started shaking and white smoke out of the drivers side tail pipe. I pulled the head and did a leak down on the head. it was good. I put in new lifters for cylinder 8 and a new head gasket and head bolts. did a compression test before I fired it and got 122psi. started it and it was rough and I couldn't get enough adjustment on the timing so I pulled the dizzy and re set tdc and the next day no spark at all. I got a new coil today and re set tdc, it started right up but ran a little rough so I went to adjust the timing but before I got there it died. now it wont start at all, no fire and no spark. does anyone have any clue whats wrong. I have changed nothing electrical since it used to run. im at a total loss and ready to sell the whole dam mess.
First, go for a walk around a few blocks and look at the trees and flowers. Listen to the birds and the dogs barking. Then, use a test light to check the wiring between the fire wall and the coil. Why did you have to change two lifters? If they are ruined where they touch the cam, chances are better than half the cam is junk too. What kind of oil did you use? If the container says "For Gasoline Engines Only", its the wrong stuff for older engines with flat tappet cams. Oil in those bottles is for newer engines with roller lifters. Dont ask how I learned this.
this has a roller cam in it and it didn't have compression on cylinder 8 and the head was good so I thought id replace the lifters just in case. but now I cant get it to start to see if it will run.
Check out their video:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdOLYd_uolM This is interesting so check this out it seems the Blaster 2 has had it's share of failures :https://www.google.com/search?newwi....0...1c.1.25.serp-shj..28.21.2159.Tk2PO6tqubc THink it would be best to order the matching Pro-Comp e-coil.
i had a customer bring in a pro comp in to put in his 67 mustang. the first one ran for about 2 min. then died the second one rand about 45 min. then died. the third one is either still running or he took it somewhere else. its easy to test the dist. take an ordinary test light , clip the neg to a good ground. hook the positive to the negative side of the coil. if the dist. is working properly the light will flash while cranking. if it dont light the dist is grounded out, if it stays lit all the time its just dead not working.
well I chucked the whole engine and told the guy I want my money back and my old block, turns out he already rebuilt it so he is just giving me my old long block back rebuilt and ill try that again. ugh
Crossing my fingers for Ya' that it works this time around.You would think someone put a curse on you with that kind of bad luck,maybe time to call an exorcist Speaking of that subject on the main board the "haunted car" stories are coming out just in time for Halloween.
I didn't see anyone mention that the firing order on a roller motor is different then a regular lifter 302. It's the same as a 351. There is also a couple of plug wires you shouldn't cross over each other.
Here in Oz we have ProComp dizzies. One retailer told me that you could buy 10 and only one would work. Neat looking but absolutely useless. He recommended MSD but I believe they may be going the same way in recent times. I fitted a ProComp for a friend in a 350 Chev (bought in the States whilst on a trip). Wouldn't fire when installed. The reluctor winding was open circuit. Put it in the bin and fitted an original points setup. Fired straight up.
well gang I ditched that whole engine and went back to my 302 .60 over with the big 351w heads. just have to get a cam in it. I got the pertronix old school dizzy and will see if it works. hey another question, I have a c4 now but I was thinking about going to a t5. how hard is it to change that over? what all is involved and I would want the hydrolic set up
I'm running a hydraulic throw- out bearing behind my T5. It was easy to install and you can run the lines anywhere you need them. I've got about 1,000 miles on it with no problems.
I'm using the stock clutch pedal but I did have to make a connector to the clutch M/C. I got the M/C and through-out bearing from Summit. M/C-$50 Throw-out bearing-$210
well everyone after three months im back on the road kinda. I made a 5 mile run last night and it didn't explode. im back with my original .60 over 302 with the older 351 heads. I put in a lunati cam and lifters a new holley 600. pertronix old looking electric dizzy. I have the rpm air gap intake and some shorty headers. I put in a 2000rpm stall converter. I got the cam burned in last weekend and took it for a spin last night. still have some tuning to do as it stumbles bad when I punch it. im using a cheap mr gasket fuel pump so ill upgrade that soon. I know the holley likes 7 psi or around there. so I can see the light at the end of the tunnel anyhow for now.
Holley will be OK at 5-7 psi if the floats are set right,what # Holley? New cam may want more advance try for 34-38 degrees all in by 2800 RPM,try setting initial at 12 degrees with vacuum plugged then plug it in and road test.Let us know if any change.
It's too late now, but the first advice was the right advice. Shut the hood, take your wife/girl friend out on a long slow walk. Talk about anything but the car. 1) you may get lucky, 2) you may settle down some, 3) maybe both . Keep in mind that these things are really simple. If you have air, fuel, electric current and compression it has no choice but to run. Maybe not well unti, it's tuned, but IT WILL RUN.
Hydraulic throw out bearings can be a pita if they require shimming and aren't just toss in. I set up my car with a slave set up, and I enjoy it. Get the bores right, make a bracket and line up the rod with the clutch fork and voila. Hydraulic throw out bearings are great too in their own right, I just like the external way.
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