Hot Rods Just Another 5-Window Build Thread

This one will not be a flathead but a 58 364 Buick Nailhead, 060 over, a 401 cam, running a 4 bbl.

What you say is true though but my avatar does not have antichatter rods. This us the second 9" clutch setup in my avatar - the first was a used pressure plate and all the normal stock 39 components save for the stick S10 or Camaro clutch disk I installed. It never once chattered. This second 9" setup has a rebuilt p-plate and a Speedway clutch disk and it chatters. So, I've taught myself how to reduce and almost eliminate the chatter by regulating the amount of gas and when/how I clutch. The next time the motor and trans comes out, I will deal with it then.

I am personally of the opinion that not all afternarket clutch disks vs the stock S10/Camaro units that were first used are the same for a flattie/T5 setup in my experience. The possible differences may add or detract from clutch chatter. But hey, I am by no means an expert - just going by my experience ...

 

Go, Tumbleweed, go!!
We be watchin'
Al

 

Thanks, Al!

 

Got some garage time in and I was finally able to bend up a decent brake line from the driver to passenger side ....


The water pump heater hoses outlets are 3/4" and my heater takes 1/2" line. I used a copper pipe reducer fitting from 3/4 to 1/2 to make the transition ....



I then used a tapped hole on my intake to make a stand if sorts to keep the heater hoses up and off the intake


Found those two pieces in one of my misc drawers in the garage - they had a perfect "belly" in them to cradle the hoses. I will clean them up and round the corners and use leather straps to hold the hoses to the cradles. Tie wraps are a bit too new ....
The gas line also needs to be spaced off and away from the intake and the heater hoses. That's next .....
I also started on the rearend brake lines by installing the rear backing plates when I ran out of time ....

 

Finished the rearend brake lines today ....


I also drilled and tapped some front brake down hold downs .....

... and since the backing plates were on and the park brake lines were attached I drilled and tapped a pair of hold downs just pick them up off the floor ...

I have now installed the park brake and the front floor piece to start getting the setup installed. Next is the gas tank, gas lines, make the steel mount plate for the wiring box, connect the heater hoses to the heater, run the electrical lines in the old style cloth covering, and fab up the gas pedal ... whew!

 

More progress - worked on the gas pedal for the most part today. I converted an original spoon pedal of around 35-6 vintage to work from the inside. This is another idea from jacksandeuces that looks like it's a good one. The pedal setup would not work normally due to the distributor cutout. It has to be reversed and when you activate the pedal it will pull on the rod/cable. I cut the pedal off and removed the portion of pivot rod that was inside. There's a pin you have to drill out and although it wasn't difficult, you need to take your time ....

Flipping things around, the spring had to be modified. I then went to my stash and pulled out some 40 ford pedal setups which are different having no spoon pedal but one anchored to the floor. What it does have are balloon ends that are a bit longer ....

This helps to space away the setup from the firewall allowing for insulation. The plan was to use the two longer balloon ends to mount it from the inside. I left the original shaft alone with the pedal cutoff since it did not interfere with anything ....


I modified and joined the original sleeve with another as the balloon ends ride on a tapered end of the sleeve and only one end is tapered ...

With the setup complete save for the pedal, I drilled the two holes needed to mount it looking for a good spot for the pedal. As it turns out, I shaved off the original tapered end and placed the pedal between it and the sleeve which looks to work perfectly ...

The longer balloon ends allowed me to use a nut on the inside giving enough room for insulation and long enough to bolt it on the firewall side ...

I again went to the stash to look for some items I needed to mount a rod vs a cable. We'll see how that goes. Once the engine is in I will "clock" the pedal and pin it so when the pedal is depressed it will pull the throttle. The engine side end will also need some mods but eye balling it as it is now, there doesn't seem to be much. I am happy with the results. ...
I continued with the park brake setup, removing the floor pan, drilling the second hole for the handle and I went for the rest of the park brake parts and could not find them. I put them in a safe place when I had to arrange things for the body removal - so safe now that I can't find them! Arrrrgggggg!!!! After more than an hour of searching I decided to call it quits before I broke something .... geesh ....

 

Ok so I found my p-brake hardware but got sidetracked by a conversation with my good friend JohnnyC on LI who straightened me out on my gas pedal setup. I was so focused on doing it more in the stock type mode and NEVER thought if having the swing(?) arm on the INSIDE of the firewall. Boy do I feel silly - anyway, I changed it up ....

Sometimes you just can't see the forest for the trees .... but man does this simplify things. The pedal will need some mods however ....

I need a little over 2 inches of travel to do full throttle and to account for insulation and carpet. I will probably modify the end of the spoon pedal to match the angle of the floorpan. This will allow the swing, good foot clearance, and comfort.

As for the stock rectangular hole I will use the cover and run the mechanical water temp sensor and weld up the old hole ...

A couple other images for you ...


I also got the HL bar bolted up, have a plan for the p-brake completion, and it just keeps getting better and better .... I am having a blast!

 

Worked on my p-brake setup today. I first made sure the pieces that came with the kit would work with the 32 brake lever ...

The block where the bare cable is at a slight downward to the rear angle so I made the juncture point of the black cables lower and at that same angle. To cut the black outer cable I tried using a brake line cutter. But, the metal casing underneath the rubber is spiral so the cutter kept "walking". I then usef a cutoff wheel that only had about an inch left on it (it's easier with a smaller wheel than a new/larger one to me) by first stripping away about 1/4" of the rubber leaving the spiral casing exposed. I then slowly cut the casing so as not to cut into the cable inside it and pulled them apart. By eye I gave myself what I would need at this point plus an inch more. I again used my cutoff wheel, having it vut in the direction of the cable winding rather than against it making a nice clean cut. Passenger side was a snap but the driver side needs to go up and over the driveshaft ...

... and it took a bit to come up with a config that I liked. The cable may be attached to the floor or stay more or less where it is. I will determine that once the body is back on.

The bare cable has just been slid through the block. Can't synch it down until final assembly ...

I am happy with the result.
I put the gas tank in place and started looking for tube/hose routes and locations for the fuel filter. I have not made my mind up as yet so it was a good time to do some cleanup and I then called it a day .... making progress ....

 

So, I didn't have exhaust pipes coming from the manifolds and since I will be installing the drivetrain soon to mock up the exhaust and throttle rod among other things, I got them done today. Hardest part was trying to find someone to flange the part if the pipe that goes to the manifold ....

The question muffle shops asked was what year, make and model. Without that, they're lost. So I asked one truck repair shop and although they could not do it, they sent me to a place where some of the p-up owners got their pipe setups from. Told them what I wanted and they whipped up a pair for me while I waited ...

I also got some extra pipe if the drop was off to get under the K-member. Real nice guys and it was a pleasure to work with them.
Once home the weather was warm so I painted the block and heads of the Nailhead. I had done everything else up to this point.


I also picked up some needed hardware and got directions on how to set the float of my Classic Instruments fuel sender of 0-30 ohms. Making progress ....

 

After hanging out with jacksandeuces on Thurs and checking out his similar chassis, today I worked on the gas lines. After working out the fittings I needed, I bent up sine lines ....







I am satisfied with the results so far. I have since drilled a hole in the K-member for the line to pass through .....

My next step is to install the motor and trans to setup the exhaust and finalize the clutch linkage and gas pedal .....

 

Hey Tom, looking good...just spoke with Jack a few days ago
Keep the faith....my 5 window widow is in need of attention but I
am trying to finish a boat project before June...

 

Thanks, man - it's been a hell of a ride so far and I wish you the best on your boat project and then your own 5-window. I have had my share of "in-between" projects so I know your mind set - it's all good man, it's all good .....

 

Got up at o-dark-30 to go to an indoor show, the Asphalt Angels, by Kings Dominion. Good show but an even better breakfast with the boys and seeing so many other good friends at the show. Bottom line, my garage time was limited to finishing up the gas filter connections and drilling and tapping holes ....

I also moved the rear end brake line ....

I am now preparing to connect the motor and trans and get it into the frame ....

 

Nothing really to take pictures of but I finished up all but the underneath drilling and tapping of holes for line clamps, did some welding here and there all over the frame, getting wired up to test the gas tank sending unit, installed the clutch and p-plate, and I have the trans ready to be bolted back on to the engine with the throw out bearing setup I decided on. Once I have the clutch linkage setup, I will check the clearances and action(s) and when the clutch is depressed. Presently I have the Camaro t-out bearing that matches the p-plate sitting in front if the stock 40 Ford t-out bearing carrier (sans the old t-out bearing). Should leave between 1/4-5/8" clearance "at rest" but the Camaro T-out bearing is just floating in front of the old 40 carrier. We'll see how that works out ...

 

Another short day in the garage but got a couple things accomplished. First, I tested my fuel sending unit to my gauge and, although it would have been easier to do this before I installed the sending unit in the tank, it registered full, empty, and I was able to move the tank around enough to get a 1/4 and 3/4 full readings as well. You would all have laughed at how I had to manuever the tank to get the readings! Lol!

The second thing I did was to attach the tranny to the motor with the t-out bearing installed. To recap, I am using the stock 39 Ford arm, fork, and t-out bearing carrier but without the 39 t-out bearing. For my Camaro 10.5" p-plate I am using a Camaro T-out bearing which just sits in front of the 39 carrier. When I assembled everything I need to make some adjustments ...

The Camaro T-out bearing is just touching the fingers of the diaphragm p-plate. I can spin it with my fingers but it's too close. But, the carrier can be trimmed down to give the needed clearance. Probably 1/4" will do. As for the Camaro T-out bearing, I will tac weld it to the carrier so they will move together as a unit.
With the carrier mod my setup should be good to go - or at least I hope so!

 

Got my motor and trans combo into my frame - a great feeling when it all went in there so nice ....

First, I will have to set back the arm off the pedal setup to have enough adjustment ...

I also setup the exhaust and mods will need to he made. Just have to think about it first before jumping into it. I also started playing with the throttle linkage. That looks like it might work out the easiest .... Pics on that tomorrow along with the rest exhaust ....

 

Good day in the garage today. First, I worked on the throttle rod. Searching through my stash I found a nice clean end to mate to the pedal arm ...

At the local hardware I picked up a rod that matched the diameter of the rod on the end I am using and welded them together giving myself enough of a mistake factor ....

The swivel end on the carb arm I had. I did pick up a stop to hold it ....

I then extended the hole in the firewall to be a vertical slot since the rotation of the carb arm warranted it. Other than setting the gas pedal, it's done and I am happy with the result ...

I then moved on to the clutch linkage. There is no room for adjustment as per my previous post. I decided to extend the pedal arm further towards the rear. After some cuts and whittling, I got er done ...

Since it was so nice out I cleaned and painted a few of the engine brackets using my home made, and very expensive, new toy to hang the parts I paint that are light enough to hang ...

Lol!
I then set up the exhaust and discovered I need an intermediate piece from the exhaust manifold pipe and the long exhaust pipe to the back which I want to run along the frame rails away from the mc and brake lines ...


With the pipe kit I got there are two 45 degree angled pipes but the angle was too deep. So, at the outside curve I cut two slits to reduce the angle ...

I closed the gap a tad more and tac welded it together ...

A good day and things are moving along nicely. The clutch linkage needs a spring as if yet and I haven't tried the piece I just made in the passenger side - tomorrow is and day. I am pumped about how the day went ....

 

Worked more on the exhaust more today. Finished welding the one piece I modified yesterday then duplicated the mod on the cuts for the other side. But I had to make the angle even shallower. That made it better but I had to take a small slice out of the exhaust manifold pipe as well ....

You can see the slight modification that had to be made. But after welding everything up and cleaning up the welds I am happy with my progress ....


What I would like is to have each side of the exhaust as one piece - so I am going to work on that tomorrow ....

 

It was time for a shop clean and piddled with multiple small things today. I was not on my "A" game today so I did not want to screw anything up I have all ready done.

After picking up and cleaning up, I set the engine side heater hose s, finalize the brackets, set up the gas line from the pump to the carb, and set the pcv valve line ....


I will probably put some kind of a hold down on the front side of the pcv valve line. I may not keep the metal portion - my hose was not long enough and didn't want to make a run to the parts store ....
I also worked on my air cleaner and it's ready to have the mesh glued in. Pics of that tomorrow ....

 

Looking real good Tom!

 

Thanks, Joe!

 

Good progress, I like the side exit exhaust. Simple, clean hotrod stuff.

 

Thanks so much for all your "Likes" and support - it means a lot to me ....

Yes, looking at all the dry lakes cars and hotrods of the 50s and 60s (and before), running underneath the frame and exiting before the rear wheels says more "hotrod" than not to me too ....

 

Finished up the air cleaner surround - gives it an old time but fresh look with the mesh all at the same time ....



It was tricky to figure out how to squeeze the parts together while the jb weld cured but the small paint stick strips, wax paper, and the clamps worked great. What would we do without paint sticks?!?! Lol!

Btw, I have the KnN equivalent air cleaner on order. I am not much on the paper elements ....

Looks a bit like R2D2 my wife says! Lol!

 

I love the air cleaner housing!

 

Thanks Gary - now you know what you can do with an old oil bath air cleaner! Lol!

 

Tom,
Things are moving along just great on your build. I hope your Carpal tunnel surgery goes/went well. I wish I were closer so I could actually put eyes on your progress. Someday I will. By the way, what is the number of that handy, dandy Lisle tubing bender?

Keep up the good work.

Ted

 

Hey, any time you want to come and hang out, just say the word! Thanks for all your "Likes" and encouragement. I am liking where the project is headed.

The Bender was on eSlay and bends from 0-110 degrees w/ref marks at 45 and 90 degrees. It's for 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4" lines only. It was $16-17 bucks is all.

Can't seem to find it on eSlay - here's one very similar at Walmart ...

https://www.walmart.com/ip/3-in-1-1...9785&wl11=online&wl12=191761590&wl13=&veh=sem

Take care, buddy!

 

I also worked on the exhaust today - I tac welded together the intermediate piece and the long pipe to the back after cutting the flange off the intermediate pipe ...
Not really visible in the pic .... but at the lowest point I have 5" of clearance. If I go any higher the bellhousing will be the lowest point on the car. I thing I would rather have the pipes rub first than it. The last pic and the next were taken with the car on all 4s...


I also rough cut out my tailpipe that will be just before the rear wheel ...

Back at it tomorrow after a few errands ....

 

Worked over at johnrodz with Gabby on the Bonneville project today. Great day, got stuff done, and the company was great. I figured after dinner I would go out in the garage for 15 minutes or so - after two hours and 15 minutes I had the driver side exhaust pipe all welded and cleaned up ....


The passenger side is all tac welded together - it's next up to finish weld ....