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Projects Just another 50 Shoebox project off in the corner.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Lono, Mar 2, 2012.

  1. Lono
    Joined: May 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,656

    Lono
    Member

    Yeah, mine went to california and was replaced with a 53 chev with extra teeth..
     
  2. Lono
    Joined: May 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,656

    Lono
    Member

    Setting up for a little french immersion this coming week...

    [​IMG]
     
  3. It's looking really clean so far!
     
  4. Lono
    Joined: May 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,656

    Lono
    Member

    Off with the bumper for a rust review.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Some but not as bad as expected. You wont hear me complaining. :D
     
  5. TheBeatnikBros
    Joined: Feb 28, 2012
    Posts: 2

    TheBeatnikBros
    Member
    from Orlando

    Looking real nice for a 60-year-old! Nice body work, as well. What are you thinking for paint?
     
  6. Lono
    Joined: May 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,656

    Lono
    Member

    I dont know what it will be, but I know what it wont be... flat black.
    Thinking maybe midnight blue... we'll see, it's a long way down the road.
     
  7. shoebox1950
    Joined: Jul 17, 2008
    Posts: 1,221

    shoebox1950
    Member
    from California

    Nice little shoebox!

    The trick I have found to welding up the rear fender seams is to carefully grind off (or chisel off, as you did) the top of the bead, then wire wheel all the tar/rope junk out of there and then go back with a cut-off wheel at an angle and remove as much of the middle piece of metal sticking straight up as possible. It is more often than not rusty down in there and will affect your welding later, plus it will allow you to get a better weld that can be ground down for a rounder fender peak, rather than a really pointy one. Also, that tar stuff will get hot when you start your tack welding, so keep your wire wheel and air blower handy and keep chasing it away and cleaning as you weld :)
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2012
  8. 1950-mercury
    Joined: Mar 20, 2011
    Posts: 534

    1950-mercury
    Member

    Nice car!!! Looks like your getting alot done. Keep up the good work!!!
     
  9. Lono
    Joined: May 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,656

    Lono
    Member

    Thanks for that. I have started down that road by clearing out the residuals with a cut off wheel. I've gone down about 1/16". We'll see how it welds soon.
     
  10. tedley
    Joined: Nov 8, 2009
    Posts: 2,147

    tedley
    Member
    from canada

    KITTY HAIR? You mean fibergl***? Don't do it. Fibergl*** does not make a good bond to metal. If you have to use kitty hair, for whatever reason, mix a glug of bondo in the mix. Sticks better, sand easier. But i stay away from that stuff unless i'm butchin something.
     
  11. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 6,012

    daddio211
    Member

    Don't know if you know, but all the pics in posts 37, 38 and 39 require a membership to view.
     
  12. Lono
    Joined: May 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,656

    Lono
    Member


    Thanks, will have to fix that.
    I video taped the whole thing to make a simple how to for anyone who hasnt done it before, who has limited tools and might like a boost of confidence. Guess I'll need to post that instead.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2012
  13. JMD82
    Joined: Mar 1, 2009
    Posts: 191

    JMD82
    Member

    Your off to a great start! Nice french too on the headlights! I will be following this one, keep it up and keep posting those pics!!!
    -Missy:D
     
  14. Lono
    Joined: May 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,656

    Lono
    Member

    I thought I'd post this as thread for anyone who comes along to HAMB for the first time looking for Shoebox information. I think it's important to share stuff for the next generation without a bunch of "importance" added in.
    No it's not rocket science, No plasma cutter or high end shop tools, just a quick look at how I did mine... just click and play.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. Lono
    Joined: May 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,656

    Lono
    Member

    A good day to weld in some patches in the rear and weld on the apron.

    Later this week I'll get into the seams and start working towards finishing the body work on the rear of the car all nice and straight.

    I seen a Robin this morning so spring is creeping close. I want to be cruising around getting to know this thing by summer. Next winter comes the chop.
     
  16. scrappin bottom
    Joined: May 14, 2011
    Posts: 119

    scrappin bottom
    Member
    from Austin

    Love the build, is looking great, you make it look so easy!
     
  17. Lono
    Joined: May 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,656

    Lono
    Member

    I'm sure this will spark debate but here ya go.
    A close friend with 50 years experience in auto restoration and painting shared a different approach to dealing with the seams. Sometimes going with the guy you know face to face, with experience and well established history is definitely the way to go.

    After grinding them as clean as possible using a cut off wheel, I heated the seam with the torch. This brought more debris to the surface allowing me to clean it out completely.

    Once cleaned out, I washed down the troughs with acetone. Then wiped them with flux, heated approximately 4 inches at a time filling them with metal solder. The results were clean solid filled horizontal troughs.

    Once done, I hit it with self etching primer.

    The verticals however required the same cleaning process and tack welding.

    [​IMG]
     
    Toddlich likes this.
  18. Lono
    Joined: May 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,656

    Lono
    Member

    Spent the last couple days, smoothing out the rear, welding on the rear apron and addressing minor rust issues.

    Time to move up the quarters and see whats hiding under the old grey primer above the wheel wells.

    Once I've gone over the quarters again I'll return for a final course of sanding and sealer. Then off we go to the front fenders.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Taff
    Joined: Mar 14, 2006
    Posts: 360

    Taff
    Member

    lovely smooth *** on that car!
     
  20. PunkAssGearhead88
    Joined: Jul 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,792

    PunkAssGearhead88
    Member
    from So Cal

    Looking good! The seams on the rear quarter panels always bugged me.
     
  21. BRENT
    Joined: Jun 22, 2005
    Posts: 252

    BRENT
    Member

    Looks very nice, nice work and you do make it look easy. I was thinking about frenching my tailights but Im still on the fence. But now I know its alot easier then you think.

    Brent
     
  22. Lono
    Joined: May 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,656

    Lono
    Member

    Some folk might call them tunneled. I guess that might be more accurate. I might reposition the lights closer to the opening later on by extending the bolts on the lamps, we'll see. I dont think there was a written law as to how deep frenching was as compared to tunneling. It's a heated debate that will go round and round and melt your mind if you let it.
     
  23. Looking good. Keep it up, I wish my shoebox was that solid.
     
  24. Lono
    Joined: May 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,656

    Lono
    Member

    Yeah, I was worth spending a bit more for the project to start with. I'm thinking the chop next winter will be a big enough job so I didnt want to get bogged down in a lot of sheet metal replacement. Dont get me wrong, its not without a few hidden surprises the last owner ( insert flipper here) but I was prepared for a few shocks along the way.

    When the roof gets done next year, the full car with go down to metal, for now, just to make it presentable for driving around its getting a make over. If it runs out as I hope, then next year the big task. For now, It'll look fashionable in Satin... something.

    [​IMG]
     
  25. Lono
    Joined: May 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,656

    Lono
    Member

    time for a major shop clean out then I'll hit her in a coat of 2 part primer and let it sit around for a while. I want to focus on the mechanical for a while along with the ever worn out door hinges.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    ....time to start thinking about lowering it.
     
  26. sierra rod shop
    Joined: Feb 16, 2011
    Posts: 381

    sierra rod shop
    Member

  27. Lono
    Joined: May 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,656

    Lono
    Member

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Now, onto the do list...

    The do list:

    Mechanical:
    new key and ignition
    fire up
    overdrive cable - ordered
    tail light bulb
    convert to 12 volt
    generator bracket
    fresh lube

    Floor:
    Remove seat repair minor rust

    Paint:
    final primer- prep
    paint satin black 9 I know I said I wasnt going to go black, but I've got it in the shop so why let it waste.

    Lowering:
    4 inch lowering blocks -ordered
    Aeorstar coils
    2.5 inch front lowering kit - ordered

    Doors:
    Pins and bushings
    back up release x 2
    Solenoids x 2

    Trunk:
    deck release cable
    latch - found at wrecker
    solenoid

    Bling:
    blast wheels/ paint black
    tires
    skirts - cruisers or large flats
    bullnose/ hood chrome
    Caps - order bullets

    Bumpers:
    remove bumperettes

    Interior:
    order T/ R seat covers
    Take door panels in to Eddie

    Misc:
    Steering wheel repairs/ paint
    Who knows....

    Safety inspect- register by July 1
     
  28. Ford52PU
    Joined: Jan 31, 2007
    Posts: 522

    Ford52PU
    Member
    from PA

    looks good in primer!
     
  29. Lono
    Joined: May 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,656

    Lono
    Member

    Picked up the coils today and went to a swap meet.
    I got the stainless rib for the hood for $5.00

    I guess I'll try to get at the coil swap this weekend.

    I'm doing 4 inch blocks in the back and installing the aeorstar coils up front for 2.5 inches.

    With the 3 inch whites and the caps it should be sitting like this.

    [​IMG]
     
  30. Tin Can
    Joined: Nov 18, 2005
    Posts: 2,096

    Tin Can
    Member

    car is lookin great. Amazing how much better they look once in one color
     

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