Just finished rewire, no power to anything.

On the ezwire harness I used,when my defroster quit working the only fuse blown was labeled "electric fuel pump". I replaced the fuse for the "fuel pump" and my defroster worked! Whats that tell ya? And,yes, all of the wires were labeled for where they were meant to go. Mine must have been put together on a post holiday monday morning!

 

I used an ez wire kit on my last car, won't use one again, it seems you get what you pay for, I know my stuff and it was still confusing, I dropped the directions and followed every wire, it was more work than it was worth. They won't be in business long with "typo's".

 

some times e mail is also confusing- give them a call and talk to someone direct- just take a step back- cool off and start again- I did several(even after my stroke) wiring jobs, so it's not impossible- also check the main(usually a 50 amp maxi-fuse)and see if it is ok- or as stated- check the fuseable link and see if it is intact or is grounded properly- EGBOK-

 

Thank you everyone, I'll cross that company off the list. Has anyone thought of designing a simple diagram to wire a Roadster or Coupe?

 

The kit from rebel wiring is very simple and if you get stuck just drop a dime, they are very helpful. I think the wiring is pretty simple- its the routing- but you could do it once everything (wires) is removed and you start with a clean slate. Ground the **** out of everything and just take your time.

 

In the picture of the fuse box, there's a yellow wire in the lower right corner, where does it go? It appears to be connected to the bus that the red wire feeds.

It does look like there are two big yellow wires, feeding the left and middle sections of the fuse box. These would need to get power from something, and it makes sense that they would be connected to the ACC (or IGN) terminal of the ignition switch. But without seeing what the other side of the fuse box looks like, we can't tell which fuses are supposed to feed what.

sounds like a not so good wiring kit.

 

You could start from ground zero.

1. Pull all the fuses, remembering where each one went so you get the right values back in there.
2. Disconnect the switched and unswitched +12V feeds to the fuse block.
3. Each fuse position has one side to the load and the other to either the constant +12 or switched +12 feeds.
4. Measure with an ohm meter (remember, no power is connected!) to see where each circuit is fed from. Test light would be OK too. Take notes.
5. Remember the notes from step 4? You just did a wiring diagram for the kit. Now draw in the things you add like the alternator, turn signals, etc. and you have a wiring diagram for the car. This is important to have.
6. With steps 4 and 5 done you will be able to see what you have and we can help you. (This is where I found the error in ***embly in my EZWire kit.)

 

That panel looks sorta cheesy to me....the fact the 1/3 of it is live and 2/3 is unconnected shows poor design at the least......Get a Rebel wire panel from TugMaster.

 

X2 on that. I installed one last year in my '51 F1 and it was a snap. They make several types of harness'.