Hot Rods JUST HOW RELIABLE IS A FLATHEAD TODAY

I have owned 2 cars with flathead V8's, one was in a strip down Model A jalopy back in the late 60's with deuces and a set of fenton aluminum heads, it was fun for around town, smoked like a steam engine but 9 times out of ten I got to where I was going.

The other flathead was in my 1932 Ford 4 door and it was as reliable as anything I had ever owned, the car had a top loader 3 speed and a open drive rear axle, it hit the highway and would run 75 all day long, the car would have benefited with a 5 speed transmission, pulling long grades in the Smoky Mountains is when the car suffered, I had to slow down and use second gear.

I am toying with the idea of using a flathead in my next project but I spend more time on the highways than rural roads, I know some of you guys with flatty's put a lot of miles on your cars and then run the cars at events.

I haven't committed to it but a pal has a nice running 50 flathead he is removing from a recent purchase and he is installing a Old's in it's place, the gent he bought the car from said the engine was rebuilt right and he has receipts for over 5 grand, I've road in the car and it seems to have good power and doesn't smoke or run hot.

I realize buying a used engine is taking a chance. HRP

 

With today's technology, probably more reliable than when new.

 

Danny.....I had an 8BA in my '35 Slantback Tremec 5 speed and an 59A 3 speed top loader in my '29 Roadster.
Both fun cars to drive around town. Would run 4 lanes but I never liked 4 lanes.
Bot reliable as any engine I have run.
Would I build another.......maybe not......why.....finding a good block is difficult but saying that I have had the same difficulty finding good old SBC motors (265, 283, 327) in my neck of the woods.

Cost and ease of finding/buying parts here.....SBC hands down.

I currently have 2 59A Merc blocks here but both are cracked and all the parts to build them. They can be repaired but at a cost.
IMHO, if you have a good Flatty......go for it. Cause I would!

 

of the two flathead powered cars I took on LeMons Rallys, both made it home. You know you've done something when you take a long trip like that, though.

 

What ever happened to the LaSalle hearse?

 

I have only experienced one time in 34 years and almost 40,000 when my '51 didn't get me home. And that time, it was entirely my fault, as I was using it for a test mule for my 6 to 12 volt tach converter box. The box developed a problem that would intermittently kill the ignition. I accepted a quick ride home and talked to my buddy who designed the box. The first thing he said was "Did you disconnect the box?". Of course I hadn't. We went down, disconnected the box and drove the car home with no problem.

This includes a trip to Chicago and several trips from north of Brainerd to the twin cities.

 

I drive my coupe 8ba on four lanes quite often when traveling long distances out of state or long stretches.
It has highway gearing.
The tight noisy pickup 59L is another story. Not comfy and quieter like the coupe. I’ve had two other 59’s in the truck over the years.
None of them feel as smooth and powerful as my same old 15 yr old 8ba.
But if your looking for extras like A/c on your trips I’d advise not taxing the flatty with that stuff.
Nowadays, with the tranny choices, distributor choices and water pump choices. I really think we have the old complaint issues mastered and figured out.
Now getting a well made, new flathead radiator may be an issue.
Sure my coupe has seen the likes of a flatbed tow truck. But every single one related to either a rear end issue on my truck or electrical issues not related to the mechanicals on either flathead.
You could easily apply those issues to any small block.

 

I have a merc flatly. Thinking about using it but it’s sitting beside a y-block, a 331 Chrysler, a pile of stove bolts and a couple 283s.
Which to use? Don’t know.
The cheaper/safer bet is the SBC.
I hear the excuse by some to use a SBC is parts if you need them on the road. The last 2 fuel pumps and water pump I bought for an SBC had to be ordered. The ease of finding parts is no longer true.
Usually anything other than the simple bolt on spares we carry will put you on a roll back no matter what engine you use.
Dependability of a flatty is not an issue, mostly cost. Most will need cracks addressed.
I think it boils down to style, taste and wallet.

 

funny you should ask...my brother sold it just a few days ago.

 

At least as reliable as they ever were. It all depends on its current condition. Worn out ones are still undependable, a new rebuild should take you around the world, just like it would in 1950.

 

Not sure what you'd have to pay, but if I had the chance to buy a rebuilt flathead with $5K of receipts, done and I could hear it run before it's pulled, I would not miss that chance. That's a pretty rare opportunity these days (unless the guy wants the full $5k or something).

Not to get too far off the subject, but this is very true. I had a hard time even locating a TH350 trans filter and gasket locally, it too had to be ordered. The same holds true with a lot of the brake and suspension "upgrades" being sold, which use a lot of 70's and 80's car components in them, none of that stuff is going to be in stock at the local parts house. I feel like some of that stuff is a downgrade and makes repairs more difficult later, when trying to figure out what came from what.

 

I suppose it is like any other engine, build it correctly, tune and service it correctly and it should run as well as anything else out there. Mine runs great, starts with a quick push of the button, never stalls or dies, doesn't smell, lots of horses, etc. If it had hood sides you would think it was a LS not a FH

 

At the same crossroads. Have a real nice 40 coupe with stock flathead columbia etc. Friend has a built never fired 286" flathead that I can get at a good price--he is downsizing. Or a 283 against stock drive line-he has that too with all adapters etc and engine is fresh. Wife says get rid of all stock stuff and build like all the others we have done. No rush

 

Given the improvements in metallurgy and oil over the years, a recently rebuilt flathead should be better than 'back in the day'. Rings/valves/valve seats are a lot tougher than they used to be. I remember my Dad had a '53 Ford that needed rings and a valve job at about 80K miles, that shouldn't be true now.

 

I agree with the others here. If you apply modern oils, fuel delivery, ignition, and most importantly, transmissions, to the flathead, there shouldn't be any issue in regards to reliability. I don't think the knock on flatheads was ever that they weren't reliable, it was that they weren't powerful enough, and when hopped up to make them more powerful, reliability often suffered. There are ways around that now.

 

I took my crank to this shop today get it balanced and he shows me a modern flathead I guess you would say, dual crank trigger, dual belt driven distributors. blower with two 1050 Dominators on it. I wonder how that would run/last ? A pretty wild looking set up.

 

A buddy of mine has driven his car with a flathead from the East coast to the West coast and back twice without a single problem. And.....he built it himself in his basement. I think you would say that is good enough to call it reliable.

 

The 8ba in my '39 p/u is basically stock except for a Buda Chevy distributor conversion. It does have EAB heads and a supposed Merc cam but who knows. I drive it almost every day but with the 4.11's in the rear it really doesn't like the freeway. And with California drivers its best I stick to non freeway routes. With side panels on the hood it gets a little warmer than I'd like but nothing excessive.

 

I've had a half dozen of them in various vehicles, seemed reliable, without issues.
My biggest issue was my own mind set, lacking the confidence, to really put any serious miles on them, staying on back roads rather then the freeway, etc.
Not saying it was justified, but am saying peace of mind won out.
My avatar has a fresh great running stock flathead in it, but am still tempted to swap in an early Olds I have (I'm really struggling with this, as the flathead runs so great, albeit, not much power though).

 

I’m veering a bit from Danny’s thread, but I went through a SBC, TH350 acquired everything I needed to swap out the 235 and granny box in a ‘59 Chevy PU I had.
Damn, that 235 just ran so well I could never pull the trigger and do the swap.

 

I had 3 of them all restored to factory specs in my once restored 34 ford and they didn't last a 1000 miles....Glad I got rid of them nothing but trouble....

 

Who did the engines for you? (I want to avoid them.)

 

My 2 cents; If the flathead V8 is mild/close to stock and your not leadfooting the RPM,they can last.
But if hopped up an turned hard,poor per$ life. But they sound an look cool as hell !
I like my Ford Y-blocks best,but also I do own a v8 flathead 53 Mercury w/2x2,I'm using for my Hubba Hubba Hup roadster !,that may or may not ever get done.

 

Over 30 years ago and different machine shops.. All developed cracks...

 

Cracks aside , any vintage engine should be ok if not pushed to he limits of reliability...assuming the engine is reasonably maintained and tuned...

 

Just had Frames build me an 8BA mild motor with a 4 inch Scat crank, Isky 88 cam, Ross forged pistons, stainless valves, everything balanced, can't wait to get it running. Also using one of my 5 speed conversions and the 409 water pump kit. Going in a 32 roadster I'm starting this fall

 

The engine itself is a reliable motor. But it depends on the motor. If it is wore out it is wore out. That said a wore out SBC isn't very reliable either.

If you have one that is properly screwed together or not well worn to start with and you drive it like what it is you should be able to cruise it until you both die.

I have owned more than a couple of flatty powered vehicles in my life time. I drove them where ever I needed to go. I have not owned on in a while but they are just nuts n bolts. Just like any other engine.

 

My 40 coupe has a rebuilt flathead with three speed and 3:00 Maverick rear, and it will run 70+ easily until you have to pull a long hill, and then it runs out of muscle with the 3:00.
My 32 sedan has same engine and 3:78 and will pull the hill, but won’t run 70, just 60.

 

Danny, I think that you've already talked yourself into it, but need a little reassurance (which I think has been provided). What do you have in mind for the "New" project?

 

Danny,
I don’t have any real experience yet,,,I’m still working on mine .
But I have read a lot of threads and a lot of post on here .
So this is what I surmise,,,,,and everyone can take my opinion with a grain of salt as well .

I think most of the nay sayers on here are not really versed all that well in these engines .
There have been many doom and gloom post on here,,,,,and I’m certain many of them are correct,,,at least in the limited scope of their experience .

There were millions,,,,literally millions,,, of these engines built,,,,,and if they are right ,,,,they are extremely dependable,,and roadworthy.

Of course the block,,,,must be clean and sound,,,,goes without saying right ?
Then,,,,the bores must be round and able to seal the rings,,,,,with a rebore as usual .
The crank must be correctly sized,,,,,,no excessive clearance,,,,,regrind it if necessary.
Bearings with 5-7 thousandths clearance is not going to produce a good strong engine or good oil pressure .
If they had 50 pounds of pressure ,,70 years ago,,,I think that should still hold true today .
With the right assembly overwatch,,,,and a steady hand .

There are many top Flathead engine builders here,,,,,,if you watch some of the videos of the racing flatheads,,,,,they are really bad news,,,,,,,very powerful.
They won’t even list the HP ratings,,,,,but if you own speed records,,,and supply engines to other racing guys,,,,you are pretty darn smart .
And these engines are dependable as well,,,,,they run and don’t blow up at the first go around .

Now,,,I understand that not every candidate engine for a rebuild is top notch quality .
But,,,,,many are,,,,,I guess I got lucky,,,,,and found a diamond in the rough .
The crank is good at .002 under,,,,,and the bores would clean up at .020,,,,,,but I’m probably gonna go .060,,,just for good measure.

I’m not posting this for Danny,,,,,he’s been around this stuff a lot longer than me .
And he already knows what to do,,,,,many times he just post stuff to get a conversation going,,,,,he’s a really nice guy !

But it all boils down to sound engine assembly,,,and parts choice like any engine.
Like the guy said,,,it doesn’t matter a Flathead,or a SBC,,,,,if it’s worn out ,,it’s worn out
and that’s how it will run .

Good luck Danny,,,,,I know you will do good .

Tommy