Hot Rods Just noticed this last night.

That's a drag. Mine got broken because when they dropped them it landed right on the fuel inlet fitting. Lucky for me Charlie had some on hand. Only charged me $40 bucks for one. I do plan on letting UPS know abut it though. I'm just waiting for Charlie to send me a couple pictures. I did get extra insurance but I don't think it pays unless it's over a $100 in damage. Good luck finding 2 bowls. If you don't give Vintage Speed a call. Super nice guy.

 

It wasn't really off topic since on page 11 I was talking about how my carb was damaged buy UPS as well. Also on page 7 there was also talk about UPS related damage. That comment was more off topic than this one but no big deal. I know you meant no offense I just felt the need to defend @mike bowling. I do appreciate all the input you give. As you know I've done my share of off topic talk and payed the price for it. I hope I'm doing a little better now. Take care.

 

Wasn't doing anything at work today so I put together my engine stand. I'm hoping to get the motor on it on Monday. If tomorrow is as slow as today I'll try to get to it then. I'd rather make money though to pay for all this sh!t. lol.

 

Just gave the powder coater my heads and air cleaners. Can't wait to see them polished with red between the fins. It's going to look killer.

 

I suspect you have been on Fordbarn already but you can just use your Hamb Handle and Password to Log into Fordbarn, Garage Journal on any Atomic Industry Website listed below...I believe...

You must if I also remember Log In for pics to show up as well...

 

I didn't know that but I signed up using the same handle.

 

I saw mention you were powder coating the headers? Flathead might run a cooler exhaust, but research that some.

 

They were powder coated flat black already. It was getting old so I redid them. I didn't have any problems with over heating with my old motor. We'll see with the new one but I did just get new heads that hold even more coolant than my old ones. Hopefully that helps some. One thing I do know is in order for it to overheat it has to be running first which is more than it's doing right now but not for long. lol.

 

Got a couple hours in today. Put my motor on the engine stand thanks to @Cliff Ramsdell and his engine stand adapter. Took the heads off and removed all the studs. Went really well. Only had one give me a little trouble. I pulled the oil pan so I could take off the flywheel. Got my other flywheel put on then ran out of day light.

 

Stephen,
Looking good. That’s a nice looking motor you picked up and I’m glad I could help you out.

Cliff Ramsdell

 

Stephen, there should be a flat sheetmetal four holed washer under the heads of the flywheel bolts. It's not a locking washer, the bolts get safety wired.

Mart.

 

I haven't put the wire on yet because the bolts are not properly torqued yet. I do have the sheetmetal washer. I didn't put it on because it wasn't on the old flywheel. The new motor did have one on there. What is the purpose of it and why do you think there wasn't one on my old motor? I can't see any reason not to run it so I will be putting it on. I am interested with your input on this. Thanks.

 

I also wanted to add to my last comment that where my new motor had the four holed washer and safety wire my old motor didn't have either. What are your thoughts on that? A little added info is the reason why I changed the flywheel in the first place. The new motor had a ford 3 speed transmission and my old one is running a T5 Camaro tranny and the flywheel is different. I wish it wasn't because it would have saved me some time and effort. Looking forward to your thoughts on this. Thanks.

 

Thanks I'm really happy with it @Koz gave me a great deal on it. The people on here have been amazing. You included. I've really enjoyed being a member and the response to this Thread has been great.

 

The washer stops the dowels from coming out. I don't think they would tend to do that but that might be the intended purpose. It also lessens stress raising on the cast iron flywheel center.

If Henry could have saved 10cents on every motor he built by leaving it off he would have.

 

Thanks @Mart That makes sense. Like I said previously I'm going to put it on. Can't hurt right.

 

Went to Millworks Hot Rod & Supply in Tewksbury Ma. today. Pretty cool. Great guys. Really friendly. Sorry I didn't think to get any pictures of the shop. I'll get some when I go back. I ordered some cloth covered spark plug wires off them and got 10% off for being an Alliance Member. I also hit the parts store for some copper gasket sealant and thread sealant so I can put my heads on. I'm looking forward to getting my heads back from polishing. Would have liked to work on my car today but the damp weather took away my motivation. Hopefully I'll be able to get on it sometime this week. I am wondering what kind of gasket sealant is best for my oil pan. What do you guys like? I got the copper sealant for my copper head gaskets but can I use that on my oil pan gasket as well or should I use something else?

 

I've got a couple other leaks I'm going to have to take care of soon. My banjo rear end is leaking. I tightened the bolts and that lasted a while but not long enough. The other leak is my speedo cable or should I say the "bullet" fitting and plastic gear. I might be able to just change the seals on it but I don't think the whole thing cost much. That's an easy fix especially having the tranny out right now. The rear end is more involved but once I get the motor back in it's next.

 

Regarding the banjo. Keep in mind that the gaskets on the banjo are also the shims for setting the gears. If you take it apart, keep track of what goes where.

 

Stephen, re the banjo.

The oil looks rusty. Might just be the image on my screen but you might want to investigate. Maybe drain and refill. The stock Ford banjo bolts are specially shaped to seal and should be used without washers. If you don't have the stock special bolts, I'd suggest using copper washers and check the torque until they settle down. About 35-40 lbs ft should be adequate for that type of application. You might be able to just use the copper washers on the lower 4 or 5 bolts.

Mart.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

Thanks Mart that really helps.

 

Where ya at on the flatty brother?

 

I should have worked on it today. I got sidetracked with other chores. I did get the speedo bullet for my transmission. Next on the list is put my clutch on then the oil pan. Then it's ready to drop back in the car. The heads are getting polished right now and I should have them soon. One good thing is I don't need to buy anything else at this point although I do have pay the powder coat guy. Hopefully not to much but I know it's going to be a little money. I also want to get back on my C10 project. That project I have a shit ton of money in and a hole bunch more to go. I've got big problems with all these projects. I live in poverty just to drive cool stuff. At least I have fun doing it.

 

Had some nice weather today and was able to get my clutch in. I wish I could have done more but it fought me a little. I started by putting on the steel washer and safety wire on my flywheel per advice given to me by @Mart. Thanks for the info. I really appreciate it and all the help from everybody on here. The first challenge I ran into was the clutch guide tool I got was the wrong one but I was able to line it up without too much trouble without one. When I put the bolts in for the pressure plate I had a little trouble. I got the first four bolts started and when I went to turn the crank I realized there was no nut to put a socket on at the end. After trying a few ways to turn it over I ended up using a steel bar that worked well. After that all went smooth. Here is a couple pictures. One is the bolt on my old motor that my new one didn't have. Then a picture of the steel bar I used. Now I'm ready to put the oil pan on. I wish I could have done that today. Over all coming together nicely.

 

My powder coat guy sent me this. Can't wait to see them with red between the fins.

 

Hey @Koz I'm wondering what brand engine paint you used. I want to do a little touch-up on it and I've had bad luck mixing different brands and such. Thanks.

 

Thanks for the thanks..

Yeah, you need that big bolt at the front. 5/8" UNF about 1-1/2" long. Big thick washer and on the last one I did, a spring washer too.

 

The motor is shot with Eastwood engine black. I'm not in the shop right now. If I have any in the shop I'll send it up to you. If not it's available on their website.

 

@Stephen Barrett , I’ll look in the shop and see if I have a spare bolt and washer kicking around and send it to you.

Looking good.

Cliff Ramsdell