Hot Rods Just noticed this last night.

I like all of your reply, except "cut it flush". Leave the stud up, put a flat washer (SAE so it is snug) over the stud, then weld a nut on top. Get good heat on the stud and work towards the nut.

Go have 2 or 3 cold beverages while it cools, then back the stud out.

 

Keen-sert is another brand, similar to Time-sert.

 

Re the stud: Ok I see what you are saying now. Ok I'll alter my statement.
No stock flathead stud has that amount of fine threads.

If you want advice: I'd say pull the head and remove the stud remnants by following one of the welding techniques. There are youtube videos covering what to do. Don't go near it with an ez out.

Mart.

 

Sorry, kind of pisses me off. A few years ago I bought a windshield and frame for my Deuce coupe at a swap meet. Went to install it and removed the rather large “for sale” sign that was well glued to the glass.....yup deep scratches in the glass rendering the windshield unusable. I hate dishonesty.

 

I hear ya, many years ago I bought a converted 6 cyl electronic distributor for my 235, done at a known place...Got it, now I know why the guy sold it...shaft wobbled like crazy. Never did tell the guy I bought it from....figured he'd get it and more in the end. About the only time I got fucked on a deal...as I was in the same circle with the guy.

What the heck, once in 58+ years ain't bad

 

I saw some from Speedway that looked just like mine. I'd like to use ARP studs in but once I get this one out I don't know if I'm up for taking them all out. I'll have to see how it goes. I might just quit while I'm ahead and put ARP studs in during a total rebuild. After all the advice I've gotten about not using an ez-out and the reasons why I definitely won't be using one. I do like the welding technique. Thanks.

 

Sorry to get all snippy with you. I also hate dishonesty. I guess it's bothering me more than I want to admit even to myself. I'm hoping I don't get any more surprises when I take the heads off. At least it's the beginning of winter so I have plenty of time whatever I find. Just hope I can afford it. I've got 3 projects going at the same time.

 

Once in 58+isn't bad at all. I'm sure at some point he did get it. What goes around comes around and karma's a bitch.

 

Thanks I'll check them out.

 

Brass Nuts!!ask the monkey,LOL

 

HA HA!

 

Look, if the engine was running well, I'd just fix what I see on top when you pull the heads. Be a weekend of work for what's needed and a few bucks. Put it back together, run it. Probably out live us all

Quick interjection here, bought Dodge truck with a 360 in it, drove it home. About 15/18 miles.

Noticed no oil pressure when I got home, knew it had a miss when I started it up.

Decided to change the oil, came under the truck from the pass side and saw an end of the rod sticking through the block. Lol. Should have taken a pick of the crank journal and the carnage inside when I tore it down.

Point is, old shit like we run will last a long time even if it wasn't put together in a hermetically sealed room under ISO 9000 conditions.

Fix what ya see, drive and smile.

 

Thanks, I will. I appreciate it.

 

Got you beat....maybe....you know the freeze plug in the back of the block - yep - the one the transmission covers up ?
Got tired of it dripping a little every now and then on one of my drivers - so I decided to drop the trannie and replace it - guess what shitzee stuff was inside it - yep SILICONE - the cheap bastard just put some sealer on it....geez Louise....have it somewhere in the shop....

 

Wow that sucks. I think because there isn't much pressure that's why mine lasted so long. Probably would have lasted longer if I didn't mess with it. I didn't realize what I had till I wiggled the nut and broke the seal. I knew I wasn't going to do the same so I pulled on it and it pulled right out. WTF? Then I inspected all the others and saw the carbon deposits around 2 of my plugs. On the other side of course. I only pulled one and saw the threads. and the teflon tape. OMG! fun, fun,fun

 

Sucks that this happened to you, but like you said earlier, it's a good opportunity to get up close and personal with your Flathead. That sounds like a fun winter project to me!

One thing you've got going for you is a positive attitude, so don't lose that, if you can help it.

As someone recommended earlier, you need a set of transfer punches. A transfer punch with allow you to use an existing hole (like the one in your head -- no, the head on your car!) to center your punch, then a hammer does the rest. Don't go crazy, as you just need a small divot. Then, use your regular center punch in the little dimple your transfer punch made to deepen the dimple so that a drill bit can bite into it.

I go into a little more detail on transfer punches here: https://www.hdforums.com/articles/hot-seat-biltwell-banana-install/2/

Mods -- sorry if the link is too O/T, feel free to delete if necessary!

Someone else mentioned that the head holes may not be ideal for using this strategy, so use caution. It won't damage your head, but the hole may not be machined precisely enough to make this work for you.

Whether or not you use it on this project, you'll likely have a use for them later. Go nab yourself a set -- they're a hair over $10 at Harbor Freight; a US made set will run between $50 and $100.

Personally, I like the "weld a nut onto the stud and go to town" method several others have suggested.

Good luck!

 

Thanks I appreciate it and the advice. My attitude is pretty positive although I have my moments but over all I'm having a good time with it. I'm also enjoying every ones interest and help. I've had mostly positive feedback from everybody here.

 

Transfer Punches! Yesterday when I typed my response, I had just woken up and couldn’t remember the correct name. Thanks for reminding me.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Those acorn caps are what others use. I would not use actual acorn nuts on the nuts/bolts for the heads.

Interesting that not all the "head bolts" look to have washers under the nuts.

From my experience, if you choose to replace the studs and if they are original, you may have more practice on drilling out broken studs. Especially the ones on the bottom row next to the exhaust ports. If you pull off the nuts and try to pull the heads, corrosion may make that difficult. Would take me more than the 15 minutes that John Walker states.

The stud in question is to plug the hole. I do not think that it necessarily has much to do with being an actual head stud. Fine thread, coarse thread, whatever. The length of the stud seems longer than I would like for plugging a hole. Stick something in the hole and see where the old stud is for depth. Gives you an idea if the old stud broke off above the block surface or maybe someone has already tried drilling it out.

 

Thanks for the info on the acorn caps. I didn't know that. I stuck a screw down the hole and it appears to be snapped of flush. Hopefully it's sticking out enough to weld a nut on it but I don't think it is. Also you were right about the nut next to it not having a washer on it. I saw some silicone at the base of that one too. Looks like I might have another broken one. I'll know soon enough. I don't have a good feeling about it. All the others have washers. Thanks for pointing that out at least now I'm prepared for it and won't be surprised when I find that one broken too. I feel a can of worms about to open but I'm ready for it and prepared to fix it correctly. Whatever it takes.

 

Okay so I couldn't even wait. I had to know if I had another broken stud and this is what I found. I guess that's better than a broken stud. But what's up with the silicone?

 

No sweat, man. I knew exactly what you meant and I had to think for a minute to remember what they were called! Awesome tool to have around and I use them way more often than I thought I would.

 

I'll take all the advice I can get. Thank you.

 

Oof. That's a tough break man. Looks like the PO did some things to get down the road and never got back to fixing them. There's a few threads around here with a lot of that kind of stuff (which usually devolve into pictures of garbage). I bet that silicone held a lot longer than it should have.

So, I'm trying to catch up here; is it time to pull the heads and extract whatever you need to extract? Do you have a friend in a machine shop? Machinists tend to have ideas about extracting broken studs that don't involve welding.

 

I just realize you said intake manifold. I thought you meant the other head bolt. I haven't looked at it yet but it looks like your right. I'm going to go check it now. Thanks. Good eye. Oh and the head nuts weren't brass they were grade8 I just saw the color and assumed. We all know what happens when you assume. lol

 

The silicone did last quite a while and I drove it pretty hard. May of lasted longer if I didn't go poking at it. When I saw it I couldn't help myself. Glad I did because I was in my driveway. I don't have any friends in a machine shop but I have friends who do. Thanks.

 

Just checked it. It was tight but thanks. I think it looked loose because it was dirty.

 

No worries brother, I’d be pissed too

 

With all the stuff you have found, and considering you live in N.H. where Winter is fast approaching, if not already here, I'd suggest not taking any shortcuts on this. Extreme care and patience will be very important here. After 50+ years making a living as a machinist, I can tell you that those 2 attributes will be vital on this project. And since Winter is almost here, don't rush anything. In fact I would pull both heads.
I think using a transfer punch on that, and any other broken studs you may find before you pull the heads is a good idea also.
And yes, as a machinist, I'd consider any method using welding a last resort. If you can locate someone with a magnetic base drill, it would be worth a few bucks to get them to come and drill those stud(s) for you. That way your drill bit will not only be centered on the stud, it will be at the correct angle with the stud in it's hole.
Use lots of penetrant oils, care and patience.
As for the spark plug holes, do that on a drill press so things are square and straight, whichever repair you use, inserts or helicoils. And in the aircraft repair industry, heli coils are FAA approved.

 

Do you think some of the silicone was just used to hold the acorn nuts in place?