Hot Rods Just noticed this last night.

I knew it was running rich from the smell of gas and when I pulled of the heads all the carbon I saw. I didn't expect to see it was from one carb. The linkage was set up wrong and when you stepped on the gas it wasn't progressive they just all opened but apparently they didn't. I've been watching Charlie Price videos on YouTube. I've got a lot of great info about them from him. I'm going to rebuild them soon and get his linkage from Vintage Speed. Looking forward to learning as much as I can about them.

 

Wishing you well in the swap & I vote for the darker red. Flatheads forever.

 

Sounds like you've done good. I agree that will be better with a known good engine. I had a friend who had 3 deuces on a 32 (actually a small Chevy- but sort the same deal). He fought and fought with trying to get the carbs good but lost. He finally ended up blocking off the fuel lines and bottom of carbs to the 2 outer ones, like yours is. He really was not a cobbler but ended up leaving it like that. It had plenty of power and less hassle. I hope you have better luck than he did. I hate to jinx you but i'm sure at this point you are wondering what previous owners mess you will find next!!

 

I have had some luck with the left handed bits.

 

I'm hoping to have better luck but I'm going to have fun trying.

 

Thanks. I like the dark red too. I hate to put Buick paint on a Ford but I do like the darker red. I haven't made up my mind yet. We'll see.

 

Stephen, what about Y Block red? See what Bill Hirsch products has to offer. Easy to talk 2 on the phone.

 

There is a method to use those end carbs in a progressive setup but with the end carbs being shut off during idle by setting up the butterflies on the end carbs to close up completely at idle and also blocking all fuel to them at idle. I bought an uncompleted car that had a setup like that on an SBC. Never tried to use them but the guy that bought that setup liked them and they worked well for him.
Never seen the Charlie Price videos. Dunno, maybe he has details on this?

 

Might help!

Ben

 

That red doesn't really look as dark as I'd like but maybe it looks better in person. I checked Bill Hirsch's sight but didn't see any.

 

You should check them out they're pretty good.

 

So I only had a little time today to work on my engine pull but I took of the intake and started getting the transmission ready to take out. The next time I work on it I should have it out of the car. Here is a couple shots for anyone interested. I'm also wondering what you guys think about rebuilding the old engine. Should I bother with repairing the old block or just get another one. It seems like someone put some work into this one or maybe I should just strip it for parts. I guess it has a Mercury crank, Isky 3/4 race cam, small block Chevy valves and a few other goodies. Let me know what you think. I put another picture at the end of the stud hole just so you can tell me if it's worth fixing.

 

I think you should at least get the broken stud out. That will tell you a lot about what to do with what's left. If you tear it all down, you can sell it piece by piece or put it back together and offer it up as a rebuildable assembly, with a clear conscience. The new owner would have an accurate list of all the cool stuff and not so good things.

Remember, there are guys here that can, and would, fix anything that you have found so far.

 

^^^^^^^^ Don't throw it out!

30-40 years ago a cracked flatty block with a lot of machine work into it got junked because the repair time/bill would have been way more than it was worth to fix. With the limited number of good cores still available now, and the prices they fetch, the equation has changed drastically. Fixing that block today even at current repair prices would be a bargain. Odds are the math trends will continue.

Ed

 

That block seems to have some subtle relief work on it. It's well worth fixing. Like we discussed before, though, quite how to go about fixing it is the question.

 

I actually don't think there is a broken stud in there. Someone did a bad job welding a crack from the stud hole to the valve. I'm definitely going to tear it down just for the experience. Then bring the block to a machine shop and see what they say.

 

Don't worry I won't be throwing it out. I'll make a coffee table out of it before I do that. I'd like to have it repaired if I can.

 

The oil line showing in the photo looks to be for full flow filter. Your new block may not be set up for that.

 

The relief work is why I thought it's worth fixing. Someone did some work to this when they rebuilt it. Defiantly not a boat anchor or at least I don't think so. I've also checked out some of your videos on YouTube. I enjoyed them very much. Keep it up.

 

Yeah it's not but I don't want to run that anyway. I want the old drop in filter mounted to the head. I'm pretty sure I can use one of those. I think they look way cooler even if they don't filter as well. I'll just change my oil more. Thanks for the info though.

 

If the broken stud seems like its going to be difficult to remove, I would suggest contacting some local machine shops and asking if they have a "disintegrator". They can remove the stud with minimal or no damage. Guessing $50/$100. When broken studs are difficult, you sometimes cause more damage with off center drilling and elongating the threaded hole. The machine shop may have the needed helicoil/twinsert and installation tool.
These tools have been around for at least 50 years and many old shops have them.

 

There are quite a few mods done to that block.

Block is drilled for Johnson adjustable lifters and the lifter are present.

mild relief cut



I think I would try to repair the block or at least transfer the goodies over.

did you try to measure the overall valve lift?

 

I did notice the lifters and the relief cut. I didn't know the name of the lifters and I don't know how to measure the lift. Maybe you could help me out. I find a lot of info on YouTube so I'm going to check it out there. I did think because of the mods it was worth trying to save the block. Thanks.

 

I've actually have seen those videos. They're pretty good. Thanks.

 

Pardon my Flathead inexperience, what is the rod running down the middle of the lifter gallery? I would strip that block and take it to my machinist and see what he could do with it. My guy is a magician when it comes to stuff like this.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Don't feel bad about inexperience I don't know what it is either. I want to say it brings oil to the timing gears but I could be wrong. I do plan on tearing into it and then bringing it to a machinist to do the repair. My main goal is getting the new motor in it for right now. I've learned so much from this experience. Even though it's a drag I had to pull the motor from a car I just got. I have to admit it's been a lot of fun. That's what it's all about. Right? It also has been a pleasure being here on the HAMB. I can't thank everyone here enough for all the help.

 

It's the main oil feed gallery.

The oil gets fed to that pipe and feeds the centre and front cam bearings and then goes past the cam to the mains.

 

Your block has what is a called a "Half relief". This was done to un-shroud the intake valve without sacrificing too much compression.

The lifters are call Johnson Adjustable. They made 2 different versions, solid and hollow. They require special tools left and right for adjusting them.
See Speedway or Macs for the tools, but since your block has been drilled, they are not needed for this motor. Watch video.


to measure the lift use an indicator on the valve face and roll motor over. watch this video by Stephanie. only difference is place the indicator directly on valve face. If you have the valves removed run probe down to lifter as she did. you could also just use a mag mounted dial indicator, if your dont have the equipment she used.

 

harbor freight mount


with a dial indicator

 

Here is a website that has an amazing amount of flathead tech, it is a great read.

http://www.midstateantiquestockcarclub.com/flat_heads1.html