Projects KB pistons two with small chips

I understand the rotor can use any poll on the cap as #1 as long as the #1 piston is the correct btdc in the bore.

I was getting a bit confused as to how far the mech weights and vacuum advance would take it after static. So it’s cool to go even 20-26 and the weights/vac advance won’t pull it to like 30-40 btdc while running?

Just was wondering how far the weights and vacuum advance would pull timing btdc while it’s actually running. I do not want to set it to far back static then have it go way to far with the weights/vacuum advance.

 

If I think I understand ,
A easy way If you have a good light
with read out on it ,
You could use the tac feature &
Timing feature to see what the mechanical is , and then you can use
a Vac gun ( to simulate vacuum)
to see how much Vac canister does /set @.. (Advancement under Vac)
then set up what you want .
There was kits @ one time but you can make . I do not think they sell adjustable vacuum one's now ?

 

Explain / ask

 

Not you - the post above yours needs explanation

 

It’s a GM LS magnetic pickup over a Briggs 5hp ARC flywheel. Powering a generic Cdi with built in advance curves and a generic ignition coil. I am waiting for a real truck LS ignition coil in the mail to replace the generic coil. Transistorized magnetos retard the timing as the engine spins faster and that ****s. The Cdi ignition has advance curves built in that help advance the timing as the engine spins faster not retard the timing as the engine spins faster.

I included that picture to let everyone know I do understand timing anything with any ignition system I can make at home.

Paired with an early sealed up and internally polished 396 gm smog pump. It will peg a 30psi boost gauge the very second the throttle is opened. The connecting rod and head gasket along with the case seals are the problem not the ignition timing. The stock Briggs rods do not hold boost at all they break like gl***.


I just did not know how far after static timing a 327 Chevy at 12-16 btdc that the mechanical weights and vacuum advance would take the timing while running after static timing it. I’m just going to set the static timing on the Chevy at the 16 mark on the balancer and drop in the distributor with the rotor pointing at #1 poll then throw a timing light on it to see where the timing maxes at as the engine revs up.

 

@Thepartsbinguy1
Asking , about how much timing you looking to have normal throttle plus the Vac avance ?
No boost
Vs under boost .
Not sure but I think a stock Vac avance
has most 15-20 ish extra degs of Avance.

@ idle you want 16-20ish but can be more , depends on what yr combo likes.
Under boost
Typically 30 ish some like 36 total
again each set up different.
How are you gong to pull timing
under boost ?
Boost retard
or manually ? as with a cable on distributor?

Also when you mention LS are you using like a crank trigger also ?
My self I have used crank trigger & a distributor with advance , Not vac avance thoe

 

It was a generic magnetic pickup over a stock Briggs flywheel. I am now using a real gm magnetic pickup over a billet flywheel. I only included that picture to show I can time stiff without h***le I was only asking about static timing a 327 naturally aspirated. And where to start static on the 327 so it does not advance to far running. I got the answers I needed in the previous reply’s.


Now another question. This specific set of valve keepers on this one valve are riding higher then all the rest and I’m guessing I have to pull the valve and make sure the keeper grove isn’t failing? I feel like I’m asking stupid questions but I really want to get this 327 back together so I can run it and have fun.

Any ideas why this specific valve has the keepers riding higher then the others? Got told to whack it with a hammer and see if they re-seat but I figured i would ask here anyway. I’ll report back on what I find.

 

Looks to be in groves on Vavle
Wrong keeper
or
Retainer.

Pull keeper off , mate together & see if the keeper set in retainer correctly,
Also check stem & groves
Check for burrs

 

Got these heads out of a machine shop right off the shelf in 2016 and that specific retainer for the keepers is different then all the rest. There isn’t even one like it on the other cylinder head.

I have no idea what to do now as my valve spring compressor is actually not big enough to work on a chevy head. Even if I got the retainer off I wouldn’t have a replacement. It was like that for the 1k miles I ran the engine in 2016 so I might run it back to the shop I got it from and just pay for what’s needed to ensure that it’s not gonna fall apart on me…

 

I don't know, but I've been told
A big-legged woman ain't got no soul

 

'96, I was born, given life
'2006, I was ten, living life
'2016, things done changed; I saw light
When that next build starts my brain gets all hyped

 

If you add a Gusset you should be able to remove that retainer / keeper
Or flat bar with hole big enough for keeper & 2 C clamp one on intake port
the other exhaust port draw evenly.
If vavle moves down Light tap on head
of vavle hard plastic wood keeper should un seat .
Those springs look stockish
Look to be 65-85 on seat ,
I am thinking vavle float 5,500

 

I have a welder and realized earlier I can extend my valve compressor as needed to get the keepers off.
With my right foot it’s probably for the best those valves float before 6k rpm’s so I’m well happy with that.

I only was able to build this engine as I had a factory job that paid well. They shut down and this all got thrown in the corner. It’s written off and I’m playing with stuff that cost me 0$$$$ if it starts and explodes I am still having fun.

I’ll get the 350 I sent not long ago back from the shop and this time I don’t have factory money so what I am paying is gonna be to the shop that has the 350 now. They will obviously do things right.

PS- If you got a Reznor sticker on the heater my pops stuck it there. Man do I miss that place. I was a grunt but still they even paid the grunts well…

 

A couple years back at the derby’s a friend had this edelrock tore down could not make the engine run worth a ***


I took it milled off the choke horn removed 90% of the ****. Polished the needle and seats along with setting the float raise/drop heights with the 7/36 bit and some other small modifications. It got a good cleaning and a gasket kit should be ready to go.


He won the derby. Asked him if I could snag it off him and he reluctantly sold it to me cheap. SCORE

I based the modifications off the holley on top of the supercharger in the jeep and that derby car ran GOOD the whole night.

 

How do you keep from splitting that Dana 18 transfer case in half , or stripping that t90 trans?

 

I do not know honestly. But I promise I show off with it. 1st-3rd I don’t even let off I just slam it into the next gear with the pedal stomped and it takes it.

It’s the scariest thing I probably will ever experience when it comes to driving something third gear 350 screaming I have to force myself to let off before I’m in the bushes. It’s hard to let off though. And I’m only doing 50mph