King Of Trucks Chapter Three...Serious Bidness...

Thanks dude! Please bring your good camera in the morning. I need to get that one shot asap and get it to Frisco tomorrow if possible.

I know. Come round tomorrow if you want to hear the most awesome sound you've heard in a while.

I think I'm good for now. But don't let that keep you away!!! I'll be up there mid morning tomorrow finishing up everything left.

Thanks!!!

 

I did a couple of small things tonight. One of the radiator hoses was the wrong size. So I exchanged that and got both hoses on. I got the body bolts but they were the wrong size too. I'll exchange those in the morning. I also put the upper grill support in which I had forgotten about, lol.

So tomorrow, here's what's left once again...
Exchange the four body bolts and screw them in to hold the front clip on.
Install trans cooler.
Adjust the shifter cable a little.
Get and install PCV fitting on intake and hose.
Set screws for air cleaners.
Hook up wires for headlights and turn signals.
Fill trans.
Fill coolant.

I'm going to drive this thing tomorrow if its the last thing I do.

 

Good luck!!! I'll see you in the morning.

 

I wanna see burnout pics!!!!!

 

Terd, your truck is "Pussy Good"!

 

I can't wait! You always inspire me.

Keep your fingers crossed for me and you will!

It should be. It sure is putting a fucking to my wallet, lol.

 

alright terd its morning, you driving yet?!

 

Oh man, I am excited for ya! I can't wait to see ya drivin the snot out of it!

 

You up n runnin' yet?

 

Today was fruitful. I got all the last minute stuff done. Everything put together just so. I had been there all day, kicking ass. So Delton shows up and it was just him and me there at the shop with nothing left to do but to start it up. It takes a while to get the fuel from the tank to the carbs. It finally gets there and the first thing that happens is the fuel rail is leaking. Some yellow teflon on that put a stop to that.

Crank it some more and it sputters a couple of times then fires to life. Sounds great for about a minute. Then oil starts pouring out of the top of the oil filter canister. Tighten the bolt and try again. Same thing. We figure the chrome has some irregularities not allowing a good seal on the bolt holding the cap on. So we swap for a stock painted oil filter canister cap and bolt. No more leaks there. Start it again and one of the oil filter lines leaks. We tightened it up and fixed that.

All seems good and we pull it outside to take it to get some gas. This is where the fixing stops. The carbs idle excellently. Give it gas and it falls flat. And there's a puddle of oil on the ground not from the earlier fixed leaks.

I was already up against a deadline due at a friend's birthday party at 7 and its 6:30 now. I had to quite for today. So, here's the bottom line. First I'm going to jack it up and find the source of the leak. Its coming from the back, maybe rear main seal. No big deal. Second, I'm going to get to work on the carbies. I haven't turned a screw or anything besides bolting them to the intake. Maybe adjusting or synching or accelerator pumps. No big deal.

You didn't think it was going to be that easy did you? Just get in and ride off into the sunset? Anyway, good news is I'm down to two issues to solve from 40,1100. Oh my, you should've heard it rumble though! What a sound!!!

 

Man your right there! That's fucking cool man! Hope the oil slick isn't an exxon and it's an easy fix.

 

Man, you always know how to make me smile!

Well, let's say worst case scenario is a rear main seal. I think that can be replaced with the engine in place and without removing the trans. So that's not really that big a deal. Worst case scenario for the carbs is rebuilds. No big deal there either.

I'm just really glad those two things are the only issues, lol. I think I might go back to the stock valley pan and road draft. I'm concerned that maybe the engine isn't breathing enough through the pcv and maybe that blew out the rear main seal (if that is what's leaking).

Anyway, I'll get it jacked up on Monday and find out for sure where the oil is coming from. I'll fiddle with the carbs too and see if I can't get them straightened out with adjustments first.

 

Damn you are close. Keep after it.
Later,
Dick

 

the oil leak sounds like a problem. the carbs sound like you are running 3 carbs with no progression and you are drowning yourself. pull the plugs before you try to adjust the carbs. the plugs write the story! Doubtful there is an adjustment that will bring the carbs to life unless you have a huge air leak (which would not let it idle properly) so i would assume your jetting is way off or.... the linkage needs major adjustment.

keep at it Terd. call me if you need help and advice

 

oh yeah and cut you a rubber or cork thick gasket for your chrome oil canister and get that pretty thing back on there.

 

It comes out of the top where the bolt goes in. Is there supposed to be a gasket or o ring on the hold down bolt itself? Mine didn't have one and Jeremy's (the one I'm using now) didn't have one. Just wondering...

 

I gotta see where the oil leak is coming from. What is your opinion that the pcv isn't allowing it to breathe enough and/or switch back to road draft tube? I'm going to get it jacked up in the air tomorrow and see exactly where its coming from. I figure worst case is the rear main seal. I've read it can be changed with engine and trans together and in the car. I feel like if that's the problem, I want to go back with the road draft. I'll just chrome the stock valley pan and tube.

Keep in mind that with the carbs, I haven't done anything to them except pull them out of the box and bolt them to the intake. They were "rebuilt and ready to run" some time a long time ago. If I need to change to progressive linkage to get them to run, that's what I'll do.

And I'll take all the advice I can get, lol. I appreciate it!

 

Thanks Dick!

 

the PCV valve i am not sure of, i honestly do not think it is enough without breathers on the valve covers. You could do a breather box like from a round track car hidden under the floorboard somewhere if you really want to keep the finned valley cover. PCV valve alone though will not move enough air.
As for the oil canister you can always run a gasket, preferable a copper press washer or rubber. This is not your only problem though, there is no reason for that much pressure in your motor.
The reason you have an oil leak is because of pressure and it always will find the weakest link. It found something, the thing is before you fix the leak you need to solve the pressure problem.

as for the fuel if it was me just for a guide i would block off the two outer carbs fuel lines and see what it does sitting in the shop. if that is better until you get into above 1500 rpms or so then you know you are just drowning the motor.

Pull the plugs though, take a pic and let the world see, they can tell us more than any other test in the world.

Love you Terd!

Cookie

 

That was my first thought about the pcv, that coupled with the oil cap it wouldn't flow enough and push out somewhere. I'd rather use the stock valley pan and road draft than drill the valve covers (that Jeremy already tig'ed up breather holes on, lol).

I'll pull the plugs and get some pics. Thanks again!

 

I've got some good news to share. What I thought was an oil leak was actually trans fluid. I'm not sure why I automatically assumed it was oil, probably because I was in a rush and it was on black pavement so I didn't see any color. But anyway, some of the trans pan's bolts were less than tight. So hopefully that takes care of that.

My battery is pretty much drained from all the cranking the other day. So I wasn't able to try any carb tuning. I'll bring my battery charger up to the shop tomorrow and see if I can manage some progress in that area.

And maybe a small tip for those that don't know or those considering alternator vs. generator. A generator doesn't charge at idle like an alternator does. That's why your headlights go dim at stoplights with a generator. Know you know. And knowing is half the battle. Yo Joe!

 

Glad yer on it!

 

Great news! Hopefully you won't have to change out the valley pan or install a breather on those valve covers.

 

good to hear, text me pics of the plugs if you want a quicker answer.

keep at it, and next time always check the fluid by touching, tasting it, and then putting it in your ear. That way you get all of the sense involved...

 

The plugs looked brand new when I pulled them out. Not white, not black, not sooty, not brown, just still black and brand new. Its probably run less than ten minutes total, 95% of that idling.

As for the puddle, I was in a rush. It was 6:30 and I had a party to be at at 7:00 and was trying/hoping to drive the truck. The puddle was on black asphalt out in front of the shop so I guess it kind of looked black. I was already late so I didn't really look too closely. I just gave it up and figured I wasn't going to drive it to the party when I saw a puddle and bogging carbs, lol.

 

Oh, I'm on it alright!

There is NO WAY I'm drilling those valve covers, lol.

 

Man I was hopin for that burnout shot, But now im singing the GI Joe song. Wich is ok cause its on in a couple hours I think. Thanks

 

That is really fkd up, Muttley! AND OH, SO DAMNED FUNNY!!!!!!!!

 

Terd after 10 minutes at idle is a lot of work for a set of plugs... you must remember the plugs are in an explosion every few mili-seconds even at idle.

i really need to see a pic though, because what shows the story is the electrode. it will have stripes on it. literally stripes on the metal that show how detonation is going and if it is lean and how bad...

Now get back to work you great american hero