Looks like I ordered the wrong King Pin set for my '29. I ordered the '42-'48 set because my spindles had the square backs, but found out later that mine are really the earlier '35-'36 spindles. It's well past the timeframe to return the parts, so I'd like to know the difference between the sets, and if I need to just buy a whole new set, or just change out certain parts. Mooneyes has the earlier set listed as '37-'41 (which is still later than the spindles I have), but So-Cal has the earlier set listed as '34-'41. Fortunately it's not a super expensive part (around $70) so it's not going to exactly kill me if I have to just buy a new set, but if I can use the set I have, or at least parts of the set I have, it'll save me a few bucks and also have the added bonus of me not feeling like such a dumb***
I'm no expert but I believe the difference is in the length. If you have your old ones you could set them side by side and go from there.
The kingpins are all the same OD for 29-48 Cars and 28-52 Pickups. The early sets are 28-31(A-3111), 32-34(B-3111) and 35-36(48-3111) and are hollow with a open-sided cast ball on top which accomodates brake actuators for the mechanical brake systems on these cars and pickups. The next set, 78-3111, fit 37-41 Cars and Pickups which use the round back spindles. The last set, 21A-3111, fit 42-48 Cars and 42-52 Pickups. These are the longest of the kingpins. As long as the pins have the lock-pin slots reground for your axle/spindle combo you can use them with no problem other than a little extra pin hanging out the bottom boss of the spindle...who cares?
Be advised that you will a hydraulic brake adapter kit if you'll be using 39-48 Ford hydraulics on your early spindles. This kit consists of 2 backing plate centering rings (you have to slot the holes in the BP to reduce to the smaller bolt circle), and 2 wheel bearing spacers (the stub axle is longer on the early spindles).
The early spindles were ***embled with the support bearing above the spindle (under the brake pivot ball/cup). This supports the weight of the car, so I don't know if the later spindles with welded-on washers would be strong enough to to do the same job? I understand there are specific kingpins made for this application, presumably with the cotter pin slot in the correct position. If the kingpin failed to support the axle, I guess the bottom face of the axle would bear down on the top of the bottom spindle boss - it might still steer OK without too much extra effort, but would be slowly (or not) wearing away both parts.
Good info but the only thing I deagree with is ...."no problem other than a little extra pin hanging out the bottom boss of the spindle...who cares? The fact that you could not seal the bottom side of the spindle would sure allow a lot of water,dirt and etc. to get into the Kingpin and spindle bushings. I'd say it would be best to cut the king pin to the correct length.
Put a micrometer on it. It should read .812 I made a kingpin today for my grandpa's homemade tractor out of stainless. He wants to have 42-48 spindles on it. The pins for the roundbacks are 5.5 inch and the squares are 6 inches. Justin
Mine have square backs, but they're the earlier '35-'36 spindles, which is sort of where the confusion started...
As mentioned earlier, the spindles you have took the bearing on top of the spindle. If you use the 37 or later pins you will put the entire load of the front end on the little washers that are peaned on top of the pins.....not good....not safe. You can use the 37 and later pins if you install a small torrington bearing between the bottom of the axle and the lower spindle ear, taking the load off of the top of the pin. Or you can trim up a set of earlier pins, removing the ball socket if your not planning on using drum brakes.
I was thinking of doing this on my spindles - it'd be fine to leave the ball on top, but it fouls on the wheel cylinder hose. I can't think of any problems with t******* the ball off, or am I missing anything?
As previously stated it is not a good idea to use later king pins with earlier spindles. The bearing is supported at the top base of the king pin and changing that design to rely on that tin washer doesn't work well when mixed. If you are using juice brake backing plates on pre 37 spindles simply nip down the cup of the 35/6 king pins to leave about 1/4" of the boss remaining and re***emble the spindle kingpin as originally designed. This will support the bearing correctly,clear the wheel cylinder hose and pivot correctly. You can cap the hole in the king pin with a small freeze out plug to make the job look finished off. Avoid the thin torrington bearings while they look like they do the job, they deteriorate at a high rate due to lack of lubrication as well as plug up with road dirt and water.
Thanks, ****. I can make use of my eBay trophy kingpin set that I later discovered has two left-hand kingpins!
Thanks again for all of the advice already given, this place is the best One last question. Are all of the bushings the same for the various pins? I'm going to go ahead and buy the correct pins (better safe than sorry, especially for a part that's under $100), but wanted to know if I can use all of the bushings, washers, etc., from the set I already bought, or if I need to buy a complete new set. For the brake questions, I'm running the So-Cal Speedshop setup on the front. And before anybody says anything, those tires were on it when I bought the car, just ordered a new set of wheels/tires from Coker. Speaking of which, I think between the tires/brakes and a few other items I've purchased, the Alliance membership has saved me close to $400 so far!
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