Hello I'm mentally running through some items that I want to address once I get my truck out of storage this spring. I have a 1948 Ford f3 that likes to pull to the right when braking. It has GM disk brakes on the front (1972 Nova) with everything except the disks themselves being new. I have bled the brakes (several times), swapped pads from side of to side and swapped the disks from side to side (all independently to isolate the changes) with no change to the pull. The steering components are all new also with no detectable slop in the steering. I'm wondering if it's possible that I have a worn kingpin bushing that is allowing some movement. When I brake, if I input a slight correction to the left it stops straight as expected. I never replaced the kingpin bushings during the build even though I'm sure they have a lot of miles on them. Unfortunately I don't have easy access to the truck until I bring it home otherwise I would jack it up and try to wiggle the the wheel etc. Any thoughts?
Rather than posit a hundred different possible causes, I'd suggest researching GOOD solid axle alignment shops in the area before you pull it out. Positives; a second pair of eyes looking over the underside and the suspension/steering/braking components, a true measure of the alignment, and a big list of stuff it is not from a trusted source. This thread can end up listing every component, but it is still going to take eyes and hands to check it all and really all of it should be checked, not just the agreed most likely. Stuff like SAI and rear thrust aren't simple to do at home either.
Thanks for the suggestions. Another set of eyes and a professional shop is probably what I need to do, it's never my default to go that direction unfortunately. I can't tell you the last time I actually paid someone to work on any of my vehicles, especially one that I built. This may be the time that I need to do that.
I had a pull with brakes problem with a 65 Coronet, (I know way different animal) I went thru brakes again and again and never found it. Then I sold car, then asked new owner what he found out about brake pulling. He said he replaced tires and it was gone... Could your problem be tires?
I did swap tires around with no change. In addition I checked my alignment and couldn't see anything wrong there either, granted I did not take it to an actual alignment shop but checked it using the string method and double checked it by clamping 6 ft steel bars to the disks and measuring. I understand that this may be flawed or incomplete as it's not a four wheel alignment so if I'm going to a shop that will be on the list as well. Aaaannnnndddd.......while I'm on the topic, I also played with toe in and toe out. Seemed like a little toe in helped with the pull to the right when braking. Sorry, didnt mean to leave stuff out with my first post, tough to remember everything I tried.
Good point. Calipers are one thing I couldn't swap around. They are new but we all know that doesn't guarantee anything anymore.
You can , just bleed caliper not on the caliper mount push back piston / brake pads close to max , put wood or ect , Bleed brakes , remove wood / ect Slide on over rotor , pump brake slow to set brake pads to rotor , bleeder will be upside down , but will not matter , because you bleed .. see if issue swaps side "pull". It sound like uneven presser side to side. Clogged, crimped , collapse line, trash . Check the inverted port on hard line, rubber line, ports on caliber .. I have seen lately missed machine parts & trash in lines. Tools that can be used if you do all your own work, My self I have gauges & sensors . $50 plus . From 0 - 10,000 psi .
Thanks Eddy Dont know why I didn't think of that, might be a good opportunity to first dismount the calipers and let them hang and bleed before going through swapping side to side The master cylinder is under floor so, while my multiple attempts to bleed the brakes seemed effective (no bubbles) perhaps getting the calipers lower relative to the master cylinder will do something. All great suggestions guys, really wishing my truck wasn't hibernating!
Gary I thought of that but I was working in that area quite a bit last fall and I would hope that I would have seen some evidence of that. It's kind of similar logic when I questioned whether I could have bad kingpin bushings. I'll make sure it's on the list to check though, appreciate the input In regards to the kingpin bushing question, no thoughts from anyone? I'll admit I'm kind of grasping with the theory as it doesn't exhibit any typical symptoms of bad bushings, no clunking, not sloppy etc. All the suggestions are great, thanks everyone.
I can't see the king pins causing it. Unless they were super loose and the toe in changed under braking or something. You would notice that in sloppy steering though. I've had drum brakes pull hard to one side, usually it's the opposite brake NOT functioning right. Or the shoes aren't adjusted properly.
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