I wondered if anyone else has experienced the following problem. I have a 4" drop Magnum axel for my 32 Ford. I bought it in 2000, so I ***ume it is OK. I also purchased in 2000 a S.S. Kingpin kit from SSBC. Since the axel is chromed I sanded the kingpin bore to remove the chrome before I started the installation. I also sanded the horizontal bore for the kingpin lock bolt. The problem I am having is that the lockbolt will not go into to the hole with the kingpin in place. It will slide through otherwise. I wonder if the slot in the kingpin may need to be machined. The bolt sticks out about 1/2"in front. I called SSBC and they informed me that they no longer produce or sell the kit and there is no one in thier tech dept. that can help me. Anyone have this problem? I have searched and came up empty.
Have you aligned the kingpin so the lock relief is centered in the lock pin hole in the axle? Reread your post and now see the kingpin relief is there....sorry. Does the lock pin protrude through the axle enough to get the nut on? If the nut installs onto the pin and can be tightened up, it should be fine.
I can get the nut on and tried to tighten with a ratchet and then a drawbar (not real smart), bent the bolt. Straightened the bolt and that's where I am now.
As the lock pin/bolt is tightened it wedges between the axle housing and the kingpin. If you can get the nut on the lock bolt and tighten it up, the kingpin will be locked into place and can't move. The protrusion of the lock bolt is irrelevant. They can protrude varying amounts, depending on several variables.
I understand the concept, but I don't think I am even getting any of the wedge into the kingpin slot. I watched several videos on installing kingpins and in all cases they only had to lightly tap the bolt and they slid into place. The non threaded edge of the bolt should flush with the front surface of the axel.
Not necessarily. They can protrude varying amounts, depending on several variables. If you want them flush, you may have to relieve the taper on them to accomplish it.
I had a bolt that was similar in the past. I would take the lock bolt to the sander and take a little off at a time until you get enough engagement that you are happy. I have used those needle bearing king pins and been very happy with them.
I just went through this today. Mine would go in but not far enough and when I was able to tighten them it raised the kingpin upwards about .030. I opened up the slot on the kingpin to let the kingpin come down and relieved the floor of the slot on the kingpin a little at a time until the lock pin/bolt engaged more and went in further. I also measured where the slots were located on the kingpins and one was .070 further down on the kingpin than the other. Seems nothing fits or is machined worth a **** much anymore.
One point. From an old Ford manual I have, the recommended way to snug, or tighten the lock pin is to insert the pin and tap it in with a drift punch until tight, then lock in place with the nut. The manual says that you may strip the threads trying to draw the lock pin in tight enough. The author stated you will know when it is in far enough as it will "sound" solid, which is maybe subjective. Hope this makes sense and helps...
The reason I thought that the bolt should be flush is because the unthreaded portion of the bolt is the same width as the axel boss. I don't have a sander but was thinking of trying to file the wedge to make it fit. (not easy with stainless.) This is very helpful, exactly what I am looking for. Thanks and I enjoyed reading your intro.
Not having a sander or bench grinder, you might lay the wedge in something solid and use a hammer to reduce the height (thickness) of the wedge.
Tapping the wedge tightly into place and the using the nut to keep it there makes sense. To dis***emble, put nut on to protect wedge threads, then tap it out.
Put some bluing on the tapered part of the wedge ( a sharpie will work in a pinch ) and draw it in. Then knock it back out and see how much engagement you have. Then adjust accordingly.
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