Has anyone purchased a Kwik Lift. I am looking at them and would like some input. How heavy is one of the ramps? Is 20 inches of lift enough to roll under it comfortable? Can the width of the unit be adjusted? Is it stable with a 4000 pound car on it. When you drive on it do the ramps have a tendency to be pushed by the car when you first start driving on it? Does it appear to have good quality? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Larry
That's 20 inches at the tire. probably 16 along the bottom of the lift it's self if you roll in from the sides. Guess you could set some stands up about 16 inches high and lay a broom handle across them and see if you can roll under it easily on your creeper. Or a guy can always roll in front the front if he is a bit on the overly well fed side. There site says the largest box weighs 105 lbs so I'd figure each rail weighs about 100 lbs +/- a few. I looked them over pretty close at events were they had displays when they first came out with them but have never used one..
Had one hated it. Guy gave it to me as part payment for labor. Too low to make it easy to get under. Car has to be running to get on the ramp. Hard to jack a car up when it is on the lift. Sold it to a kid with a ricer. Glad to see it gone.
I have very limited headroom and find even with its limitations it's way better than nothing. Not only under the car but if you have two bridges it also lets you put the car on jack stands so you can do brake work and such at seat height. As far as car needing to be running I put a 110 volt winch in the middle of the two pedestals secured on a cross brace and easily winch my non runners up and down. To the OP , yes the width is adjustable and no the ramps don't slide as you drive up, just go slow. You do have to get used to slowly and gently driving up a relatively steep ramp, especially with a manual ******. It helps to either have help to know when to stop, or have a tall visual marker or go slow enough to feel the front wheels hit the back of the pedestal. I set mine up and keep it in place, so weight is not a problem. If you plan to only set it up to work on cars and then take it down for space it will be a huge PIA. You can park on it to store a car if needed. I bought mine used and then bought a second bridge from the company. Two bridges allows you to put a car on 4 jack stands. If you can hold out they come up for sale used occasionally and you can typically buy one for much cheaper than new. Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Friend had one set up in garage to fo some work. But, as stated, a h***le to move out of way until next time needed. So, left set up and parked his ride on it. After sitting for a while found out that trans had a bad seal. Having to step over set up when ride out of garage was a h***le too. Like most things has plus & minus Sent from my SM-G930V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have 2 buddy's that have them and they are still nimble smaller men that can get up and down, on/off creeper, etc. If you are arthritic like myself, waste of money IMO. If you have a garage w/ 8/9/10' ( posts on mine are 8') ceiling, buy a 4 poster, depending on car you can get it up 3/4', work sitting on stool, know several men that went this route, I had a pole barn built w/12' ceiling, actual measure 11'6" so I position lift between the 9' truss spacing. It will be the best money you ever spent to aid car hobby work. Good Luck w/ your decision and Enjoy.
I like to raise the car just right so my arms aren't cramped or stretched.. I've been using a floor jack and the same four Snap On jack stands for decades now.. I get better leverage working off cardboard, body shops have nice big pieces..
I have had mine for close to ten years, maybe longer. I also have 2 of the bridges. The bridges fit in grooves on the ramps so width is not really adjustable. I can roll under from sides on a creeper without any problems. I also have the casters so I can actually move lift with a car on it. That's handy for when not working on the car, you can push it to the wall. Not very often, because there is always a car on it, I have taken the jacking tube out and pushed the ramps together and stored boxes, etc on them. Also they can be rolled out of the garage this way. I have been very happy with it, although if I had known I was going to build a new garage with 12' ceilings, I would have waited. The only real problem is changing transmissions, the transmission jack does not go high enough so you have to stack wood between jack and trans and be careful. I've done it 2 or 3 times. As far as pulling wheels, that is not a problem with the bridges. I recommend 2 bridges so you can have all 4 wheels off at same time. Yes, you have to be careful pulling up on the ramps. If going too fast and hit brakes too hard the whole thing can slide. Once when pulling OT Mini Cooper (fwd) on, I was pulling the ramp under the car. And unless you have a winch, the car has to be running. The company did have a kit for that at one time, but don't know if still available. I haven't rigged mine up for the winch yet. Each ramp consists of 2 pieces which allows the length to be adjustable when bolting together. Can't vouch for quality now but mine is good. I had bought it powder coated, 2 bridges, shortened oil drain container, casters and small ramps for driving onto main ramps. I believe I paid $2000 for everything including shipping. As far as weight, it is heavy and it takes 2-3 guys to move each ramp (if you don't have the casters). I hope this info helps, I wouldn't hesitate buying another if I didn't have the ceiling height. And once I'm able to get my 4 post, mine will possibly be for sale. One other thing is, I bought a couple of those aluminum stands that you can stand on (Harbor Freight) for working under the hood. They are very close to height of ramps.
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