Laquer on Fiberglass Question

I've also had luck using PPG single stage black. I then take it a step further and sand it flat with 800grit, then i clear the panel with DCU 2021.Looks like glass when your done, and lasts for years.

 

I shot lacquer highlights on a fiberglass dunebuggy in 1970 and it still looks new

 

hey, dad!...

 

I've done a few glass cars. I always used PPG Used to be DP 40, I think it's 401 now. Epoxy primer, then let it flash 30 min and nail it with about 4 good coats K-36. Let her dry a few days and block it with 150. Then recoat with a final K-36 , sand and paint with lacquer. Never a problem. Without clear a low flying bird who has been eating mulberries will ruin your day though. It can stain lacquer or single stage if left on it. JMO. Lippy

 

Can I divert this thread sideways a bit? My car is due for a repaint (last done in 1980 with acrylic laquer on fibreglass which has crazed now due to climate extremes). My question is, last I heard we weren't going to be able to get nitrocellulose laquer any longer? Can I still source this stuff as it's what came on the car originally?

Thanks everyone,
Dave

 

rodncustomdreams, you should be able to find lacquer products. the ban on lead which caused the demise of lacquer (at least being on the shelf) basically allows shops and or individuals to "have" or obtain small quantities of lacquer paints. oddly enough we buy lacquer products from a guy in california.(strange because that is where they normally start with the "all out bans") i will pm you with contact info if you want.

 

THANKS blt!! (Yes, please).

 

In my experience (troubleshooting, not application) most issues with lacquer over fiberglass is using a proper primer that will stick to the fiberglass base. Most "primers" do not do well though there are a couple sealers (mentioned in previous posts) that did help. Most other issues with lacquer are "simple" basic painting issues of not trapping solvents and keeping a reasonable paint thickness. Lacquer is a pure air dry material where many of the modern 2 part systems actually bond some (or all) of the solvents chemically into the primer/paint.

The issues of the fiberglass "moving" is going to be related to the quality (for cosmetic purposes) of the laminate. The more even the thicknesses, the more even the fiber to resin ratios, the higher the fiber to resin ratio and the higher the temperature distortion point of the resin are going to be the most stable.

The bottom line is sucess will be by the quality of the prep work, whether over steel or fiberglass.

 

Thanks guy ,I got pissed when he called it a kit car ,I built the frame to my own specs and floor is made out of wood ,After I get the body done ,The underside is getting covered with some Black vinyl coated aluminum .Which I have .I sent nothing out and have fabricated everything .The firewall is also getting the steel treatment .Sometimes I wish it was a kit .Id be done

 

Yep, Feather fill worked really well with Sealer 70. Made some really slick lacquer jobs on Corvettes back in late 70s early 80s. A good friend still has a black lacquer 69 that was done about 30 yrs ago, has been garaged and still looks great.

 

Bill Hirsch products in Newark, NJ still sells nitrocellulose lacquer, as does Hibernia Restorations, also in NJ.

 

Thanks to all who've helped. I was getting concerned about availability!

-Dave