Is there a (don't do it) issue with mounting a late '49-'53 flathead on a traditional engine stand, using the back of the block? I know it's a no-go with bell housing blocks, but what about those without the bell housing?
Later blocks without the cast-in bellhousing are safe to do it with, as the shorter distance to the weight PLUS the 7/16" bolt diameters. 59A types have 3/8" standard bolts, so should be mounted on the Factory recommended 'side-saddle' flange mount that bolts to the exhaust flanges. 4 rearward are 3/8", but the 2 fronts are 7/16", and the side mounting is way closer to the center of mass. By the way...Is anyone supplying a copy of the 'Factory' flange with a stub that plugs into a standard engine stand for this? (I don't have a plasma cutter...and need one for my new 59AB Flathead!!!)
I thought someone in the classifieds was offering them but I don't remember who. I made my own, no plasma cutter. I just cut the hole with a hole saw and used a rotary file to fine tune it to the desired angle. Sorry I don't have any pics.
I had my 8ba on a stand for over a year with no problem. If you are that concerned cut a board and wedge it from the stand to the front of the motor.
Here's where I got mine: http://www.stumpysfabworks.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html. Quick shipping/delivery. Works well. I bought the engine stand adapter and the cradle with casters. Didn't really needed the casters in retrospect.
If you want a mount to bolt to the exhaust, it is very quick and easy to make. Plus it is very cheap, cost wise. I went to the local steel supply and hit the "rem" pile. Odd pieces are sold by the pound and lots cheaper than new stock. I got a 3/8" X 6 ft plate 2 ft long (you will need to trim it for final fit)and a 2 ft long heavy wall tube with the same o.d.as the standard tube on the motor plate that came with the stand. I used a flathead exhaust manifold and centered it on the steel flat stock and used it as a drill guide to drill the mount holes. Then I put the tube in a chop saw and cut it at a 45 degree baloney slice. Then centered it on the steel plate and found out I needed to put a notch in the bottom of the baloney slice to have access to the bottom center exhaust bolt hole. Once done, I fired up the welder and burned the weld deep. Left the tube long so I could trim the length best for me. It has held lots of flatheads securely over the years. Time to fab was about an hour and cost was around 12 pounds of scrap at 75 cents a pound. Please don't ask for pictures since it has been a couple of years since I did my last flathead . If your garage is anything like mine, if you go into the far reaches, it is best to tie a rope around your waist to find your way back, and just maybe carry a whip and a chair just in case you meet something unexpected. But really, it is a simple and straight forward fab and will not break the bank.