Guys, this is an odd question, but has anyone transplanted a late model say 1997-2001 Ford 5.0 with the intake manifold etc? I am wondering about hood clearance. I had originally pulled the intake off and swapped it out with a standard old 302 intake. Lately I have been staring at the old ugly FI manifold on the floor wondering if I would have been better off to install the factory manifold and forget about it. I am thinking that Floyd Dutton had a similar manifold on his Edsel Wagon, but he never raised the hood, as it should be.
The only thing I know is going from an efi to an intake.I had to change the distributer bronze gear.... I dumped the intake and went carb years ago on a 32 ford. sorry. not much help Root.
Yes sir. That's the exact intake I have, just a little newer. I am a little concerned at the lack of replacement parts. I looked up a replacement throttle body for it. Not sure if the Mustang stuff will interchange. Not many people wanna hot rod a n Explorer. I don't know anything about FI, so, this will be a vertical learning curve. My engine came out of a 2000 Ford Explorer. It has the GT40P heads on it. The wiring harness is a monster, for sure. BTW, Nice job on the install. Very sanitary.
If you haven't already, check Ron Francis wiring for the conversion wiring harness. They make life simple, and the 5.0 harnesses have about 1/2 the wires that a 4.6 dohc harness has. I agree, Evintho's install looks really sanitary. I have no clue why the 5.0 fuel injection has such a big housing, ...... my 4.6 efi really has not much but the neat looking intake runners visible....just the throttle body.
The throttle bodies, injectors and MAF sensor have to match for it to run properly. A '97 Explorer throttle body is 65mm and your injectors are 19 lbs/hr so your MAF sensor should be calibrated for those injectors, which if you have the stock Explorer MAF should be correct. You'll need the Explorer ECU and engine harness along with a good factory Ford wiring diagram. Some wires will need to be shortened/lengthened/eliminated. At first glance, it looks like brain surgery but it's really not too difficult. One wire at a time!
I have done an LS swap for my dad, but it was fairly simple compared to this. The problem is that every piece on this thing was in bad shape. It was supposed to be low mileage but you know how that goes. I have the original upper and lower manifold, and a I am retaining all of the serpentine belts, brackets etc. I am planning on replacing every electrical Component/sensor with new, if available.
I have an upper and lower. Pay freight and it's yours. I do not have the throttle body. I took it off and upgraded to an Explorer intake when I installed Edelbrock heads.
This is actually theExplorer engine with the P heads. Thanks for the offer. I am pondering if it is worth it.
If you are missing the Explorer intake, might be best to swap to a 302 4bbl intake and just go with something like a Holley Sniper if you want to go the FI route.
That was the original plan. I have an Edelbrock on it now. The Sniper just doesn't seem very reliable. I see a lot of folks struggling with them. I have a friend, who is an ace mechanic and he sent his back. Never could get it to run. The tech guys spent weeks on the phone and sent out countless parts. My original configuration had the 2 coil packs and a crank trigger setup. Trying to decide if all of that would be worth the cost and headache.
Just my two cents. I originally installed a FITech on my 302 in my 55 Sunliner. After too much time trying to make it work Removedit and sent to them to diagnose and fix the problem. It was out of warranty by this time, ok I’m slow. They informed me a new ECM was needed, $350. I had them send it back and spent that money on a new Edelbrock carb. It has performed flawlessly since. FITech is in a box on the shelf. Lot of money wasted.
I am almost to that point. I did some quick math. I need about $500 in sensors and pieces to make the original style intake work, plus injectors so call it $800. Then I need $1000 in wiring harness plus time. To convert to a Holley Stealth it would run about $1200. I already had Ricks in El Paso build me a tank with the in tank pump. I can use the aeromotive byp*** regulator and put a 4-6 PSI spring in it for a carb.
My understanding is the 5.0 Mustangs all used a m*** air type EFI while the non-hipo Ford EFI used speed density. M*** air will 'adjust' fuel delivery (with proper sensor changes sometimes needed) to changes in the air path such as cams, gearing, and exhaust. Any changes to a speed density system requires that the fixed fuel maps stored in the computer be re-programmed to account for those changes. A much more difficult process unless you have the expertise and laptop programs to do so. That difference is why the 5.0 Mustang exploded in popularity. A guy could put a cam and headers on and not have to spend $$$ on a re-programming.
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