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Technical Leaf Spring lubricant

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by class 'A', Apr 16, 2015.

  1. class 'A'
    Joined: Nov 6, 2004
    Posts: 364

    class 'A'
    Member
    from Casper,Wyo

    Ladies and Gentleman:
    I was always told by various elder hot rodders that Fords rear leaf spring grease was the best.
    They also told me it was essentially a graphite Paste made with extreme pressure grease and dry graphite.
    So for the total cost of $11.28; I made some of my own.
    Synthetic disc brake lubricant from your local auto parts store.
    Dry graphite powder from the hardware store to help lubricate your door locks.
    Here are some pictures from****embing the rear spring on my 'A'.
    It's easier to clean up than teflon paste. No worries about teflon strips hanging out and it's pretty slippery. I'm confident we can all find some creative uses for it.
    CAUTION: don't track it in the house on your wife's carpet. Nasty stuff to try to get out!
     

    Attached Files:

    AHotRod, pitman and Texas Webb like this.
  2. aaggie
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,530

    aaggie
    Member

    Hard to find anymore but the old Ford springs had grease fittings and grooves in the leaves for it to spread. I don't think any of the aftermarket springs do.
     
  3. butch27
    Joined: Dec 10, 2004
    Posts: 2,846

    butch27
    Member

    I have some kind of nylon strips from TOTAL performance or Speedway. Very clean.
     
  4. Drive'em
    Joined: Jan 7, 2013
    Posts: 274

    Drive'em
    Member

    Good to know. I've used white grease in mine and it seems to be working well. Cleans up easy too.
     
  5. 69fury
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,725

    69fury
    Member
    from Topeka

    Amen on cleanup. Moly for instance gets EVERYWHERE-you can paint your house with a thimblefull. -rick
     
    X38 likes this.
  6. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 2,522

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    I used Never-Seeze, the silver stuff you put on bolts to allow for easy removal. Took the spring apart and coated between each leaf. It really made a difference.
     
  7. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 9,179

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    When spring is loaded wrap with 2" vynil electrical tape, keeps everything in..
     
  8. Kerrynzl
    Joined: Jun 20, 2010
    Posts: 3,595

    Kerrynzl
    Member

  9. I used shrink tube for rapping. Works a treat. Stops the grease from drying out.
     
  10. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,501

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Where are you getting shrink tubing that big?
     
  11. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,546

    stimpy

    lubriplate 3000 is the same stuff plus had moly in it too ! we been using it on trucks and ship equipment for years , premade and in tubes or buckets .
     
  12. '51 Norm
    Joined: Dec 6, 2010
    Posts: 871

    '51 Norm
    Member
    from colorado

    The electrical supply folks have shrink tubing that is borderline huge. It is expensive though. I'm thinking that you could buy a lot of grease for what it costs.
    My employer "donates" left over stuff to me so that makes doing something like this doable.
     

  13. That's where I obtained mine. They use large size tubing to do the interface between above ground to below ground connections.
     
  14. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    I drilled holes in the ends of each leaf and installed Chassis Engineering teflon*****ons between the leaves. Lasts a long time and no squeaks.

    Don
     
  15. wsdad
    Joined: Dec 31, 2005
    Posts: 1,257

    wsdad
    Member

    This may be a dumb idea but then again, maybe not...
    Instead of lubricating the area between the springs, why not use that area to make friction shock absorbers? How about a layer of sacrificial brake pad material between the spring leafs? Should work just like regular friction shocks while keeping the leafs from rubbing metal to metal. It would also unclutter a solid axle front end like on a t-bucket.

    What do you think?
     
  16. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,546

    stimpy

    hardened steel against a "soft" brake pad ( even the ceramics are soft compared to hardened spring steel ) the pad wouldn't last long , also any rust embedded in the pad will make it squeak or sing , just like a rusty or dusty rotor does
     
  17. Kerrynzl
    Joined: Jun 20, 2010
    Posts: 3,595

    Kerrynzl
    Member

    Thats why trailer springs are painted in Dacromet. It has a controlled coefficient of friction.
    Trailers generally don't have shocks
     
  18. wsdad
    Joined: Dec 31, 2005
    Posts: 1,257

    wsdad
    Member

    Brilliant!
     
  19. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 17,580

    tb33anda3rd
    Member

    i found this cool little tool, that looks like a cold chisel that you pound between the leaves. it has a zerk fitting in the side that allows grease to be squeezed out the pointy end, between the leaves. no need to take them apart.
     
  20. wsdad
    Joined: Dec 31, 2005
    Posts: 1,257

    wsdad
    Member

    I would think they would act just like disc brakes or drum brakes would and have all the advantages and disadvantages they do. Why would they wear any faster or slower than regular brake pads?
     
  21. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,546

    stimpy

    pressure is different across the surface a spring is concentrated due to the curvature and the materials involved , a pad is meant to wear by friction and the metal is soft ( grey iron or pgi ) springs are real hard and would cut it . and you do not want to put a scratch in the spring as it will cause a stress riser and start a crack .
     
  22. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 12,318

    AHotRod
    Member

  23. slack
    Joined: Aug 18, 2014
    Posts: 544

    slack
    Member

    "Dry graphite powder from the hardware store to help lubricate your door locks."
    FYI: Guys and gals, Take it from an old locksmith, DON'T put this stuff in your locks. It mixes with the oil and/or moisture which makes mud and gums up the works. Use WD-40 or the like. It will make life easier for you ;)
     

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