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Leaking seals...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Action Girl, May 26, 2004.

  1. Action Girl
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 904

    Action Girl
    Member


    My lovely engine is leaving not-so-lovely messes every place I park my car. I have replaced my leaking valve cover gasket, but I'm still dripping oil and small amounts of******* fluid.

    I'm fairly certain my main seal is going but I have no plans to deal with it since this engine isn't staying in the car for long.

    My question... Do ANY of these oil leak/ transmission leak stopper additives work? I see tons of 'em at the auto parts stores but am skeptical about if they are worth the trouble. I'm not expecting to fix the problem this way but would like to maybe slow the drips.

    Anyone have experience using these? Did they work? If so, what did you use?

    Thanks!



     
  2. nor cal nic
    Joined: Feb 26, 2003
    Posts: 813

    nor cal nic
    Member

    i'd call the vet.i'm sorry... i've read further and you mean on your engine... yea some of those work but as you said not a fix all, good temporary stop. btw, i'm fine, been busy as hell.
    xoxo
    nic
     
  3. Mel
    Joined: Sep 8, 2002
    Posts: 544

    Mel
    Member

    Yeah, they do work, but the problem with them is they're plugging up the leaks, and I'd worry about them plugging something else too and making bigger problems for yourself. If you're not going to keep the engine long, then I'd just park over some cardboard and keep checking fluid levels.

    ~Melissa
     
  4. DrJ
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 9,419

    DrJ
    Member

    The transmission "conditioner and stop leak" products usually have some ether in them that softens hard seals and lets them seal again. They work by swelling the rubber so it hits the shaft it's supposed to be sealing again. This works fine on cars that have been sitting a while and the metal parts have been "leaning on" the seals and collapsed them a bit.
    It WON'T work on seals that are actually cracked because it can't mend them. I'd try a Quart of******* stop leak before having to pulling it for a resea.
    I had a 55 Olds that puked a guart in two miles when I got it, I put in a quart of sealer and drove it home and back to work and it had puked another quart but this time it took 30 miles. I put another quart of conditioner sealer in it and it didn't leak again for the 12 years I drove it.
     
  5. Trans-X in the blue can has worked wonders a few times for me..seals em up and even stops slipping to a degree....
    But mechanics in a can are temporary at best and might cause more damage in the long run..If its something youre gonna keep, I'd fix it right. Old*******s are not getting cheaper to rebuild...
    Keep adding oil to the motor...its like a constant oil change! [​IMG]
     
  6. JOECOOL
    Joined: Jan 13, 2004
    Posts: 2,769

    JOECOOL
    Member

    Ok ,action girl ,heres the deal .Put some cheap**** Walmart brake fluid in the crankcase. Brake fluid is made to swell rubber.

    Tip #2 most of the time that you have a oil leak you need to check for pressure buildup. Most motor leaks are started or increased by not having enough vacumm on the crankcase. Trans and rear end leaks are mostly caused by pressure buildup when they get hot. Always check that the vents are open. It is quite possible that the leak will stop.

    Got it?
     
  7. TooMany2count
    Joined: Jan 6, 2003
    Posts: 1,373

    TooMany2count
    Member
    from Cahokia,IL

    the best so-called snake oil i have used is the Lucas products, everyone one of them i have used works great & slows all the leaks i have ever had to the point they almost stop....joe
     
  8. Rocket88
    Joined: Jul 11, 2001
    Posts: 912

    Rocket88
    Member

    She's got a 51 Chev boys, it's got a rope seal on the rear main. I'm not sure if any of those "new" stop leak additives work on rope seals.
    As for the*******, there is a cork "gasket" between the torque tube and*******, not much to do but replace it I think.
    Just park on cardboard. [​IMG]

    DrJ, do you remember the name of the stuff you used?
     
  9. Who are you kiddin, your ole man knows exactly what to do!
     
  10. DrJ
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 9,419

    DrJ
    Member

    [ QUOTE ]

    DrJ, do you remember the name of the stuff you used?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    No, the case I cited was almost 30 years ago so the product would have changed anyway, but you can probably bet on it being the cheapest one on the shelf, because my logic on snake oil is if it doesn't work it's just a waste of a little money. A waste of a lot of money would be inexcusible to this cheap********.. [​IMG]

    Ether is the key ingredient, and ether is ether, it does it's job and evaporates.... just don't breath it and drive! [​IMG]
     
  11. stealthcruiser
    Joined: Dec 24, 2002
    Posts: 3,750

    stealthcruiser
    Member

    don't use the trans-x,it will swell everything,and make everything nice,for a while.i killed the***** out of a nice shiftin'slim jim*******(hydra-matic i think),in a 57 caddy sedan deville.all it was doing was leaking.have had much better luck,as stated in other posts,with lucas products.
    remember,it is only a crutch.
     

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