Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects Leaky carbs lead to complete engine cleanup (Pic heavy)

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Probesport, Apr 25, 2016.

  1. My carbs have been leaking a little for the past few months and it has lead to a bit of grime and paint damage. As I tried to clean things up around the carbs, everything else just looked worse and it just snowballed out of control. I hope to have it back on the road in the next week or two though if I can stop changing things.

    It's a basic 60s SBC, 350, Ford/Holley 94's and when I built the car I used Detroit Diesel Alpine Green for the color and I liked the color quite a bit. The new parts added are stainless studs, some new brackets for holding stuff, alternator cover, fan and pulley, air cleaner nuts, aluminum water neck, aluminum timing cover, wire lacing, and of course the carb rebuild kits from Mike's. Sorry in advance for some of the blurry pics, I seem to have a less steady hand as I age.

    Before I got started, a test drive or two into the hot rod season

    [​IMG]

    Carb's off, looking at the dirt and mess that will cause me a months work

    [​IMG]

    Knowing a repaint was inevitable, I ordered some more Detroit Diesel Alpine green paint, this time using Motor Coater. Well the Amazon label on the can said Detroit Diesel Alpine green, however it didnt look like it inside. Might as well see what it looks like.

    [​IMG]

    ....So that's not green. After peeling Amazon's inventory label back, I can see the Motor Coater label clearly states Cummins Beige. I contacted Amazon about the wrong color and they said a they wanted to refund for the mistake and to keep the paint since I opened it.

    I didn't want to wait for more paint, and I kind of like the color so on goes the free Cummins Beige paint!

    [​IMG]

    Stripping and painting.

    [​IMG]

    Mostly cured, random work.

    [​IMG]

    Now the insanity can begin. I had these two unused bosses on the manifold, so I moved the PCV over to the drivers side, made a new line and some brackets to use them up.

    [​IMG]

    More installed, some mockup ready for teh next stages.

    [​IMG]

    Took a painting break to cleanup some wiring, a little bit of rcable lacing and rerouting.

    [​IMG]

    Cleanup and prep for timing cover anbd fuel pump.

    [​IMG]

    Started putting the fuel system together.

    [​IMG]

    Fuel pump, timing cover, fuel line, water pump, alternator, balancer,and pulley.

    [​IMG]

    My neighbor had some round aluminum cutoffs sitting around he was going to toss so I made up some wire harness standoffs. There are two more that go in on that frame rail.

    [​IMG]

    Nice front view of the mostly assembled engine now, more wiring and accessories on.

    [​IMG]
    Cleanup and final mounting on drivers side.

    [​IMG]

    Passenger side, need to finish up the fuel system and build a cover to go over all of the brass and regulator.

    [​IMG]

    And how it sits this morning

    [​IMG]

    More to come if ya'all are interested - a few things left to do still....
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2016
  2. steinauge
    Joined: Feb 28, 2014
    Posts: 1,507

    steinauge
    Member
    from 1960

    You do some pretty detail work! That is a very nice car.However if you drive it much it is going to do the same thing again.That wont undo your detail work,but it sure will mess up your fresh paint . I dimly remember some vehicle or other(may have been a tractor?) that actually had a factory drip pan between the carb and manifold.I bet you could make one out of stainless without too much difficulty.
     
    Probesport likes this.
  3. StylinP
    Joined: Apr 30, 2008
    Posts: 15

    StylinP
    Member
    from Ohio

    Looking good, brother!
     
    Probesport likes this.
  4. Very very nice.
     
    Probesport likes this.
  5. Lookin good
     
    Probesport likes this.
  6. I'm not that concerned, now I have a paint I can match up and a lot to spare. The first couple years was fine, and I think I got a good kit that will keep these dry for some time. The drip tray is a good idea though, I may make up a "sitting tray" to put there when it sees any stretch of garage time.
     
  7. Some closeups...

    Brackets and the PCV line they hold.

    [​IMG]

    Main harness, cloth wire and cable lacing.

    [​IMG]

    Fuel pump, line, and clamp.

    [​IMG]

    Air cleaners, top nuts, and choke bracket.

    [​IMG]

    Main harness wire bundle standoffs. Mounts in the center hole. TO the right is the scrap pieces I used to make them.

    [​IMG]
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  8. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 32,213

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    looking good - yep, just a basic clean-up and repaint sure can get involved
     
    Probesport likes this.
  9. Dave Rondou
    Joined: May 26, 2008
    Posts: 669

    Dave Rondou
    Member

    Nice. I like the color choice.
     
    Probesport likes this.
  10. The new engine color looks great, concerning carb leakage, Charlie Price at Vintage Speed sells thick carb gaskets for the 94's, I go through the carbs on my avatar every winter, changing out the gaskets, checking float levels, power valves, etc. I like the Holley 94's and the thicker gaskets (in the picture) make a world of difference, keeps everything so much cleaner.
    http://vintagespeed.com/
    DSCN9576.JPG
     
    Probesport and kidcampbell71 like this.
  11. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 7,579

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    Very nice detail work, looks great! To clean up any leaks or stains try using lighter fluid, it works great to dissolve and remove any fuel or oil stains, and dries quickly without leaving any residue.

    Are those headers ceramic coated?

    Those pcv and fuel line clamps look to me like they could eventually bore a hole through the line, which could create a vacuum leak on the pcv line but worse would be a potential fire risk on the fuel line. I think some rubber cushioning to prevent metal to metal contact would offer more peace of mind.
     
  12. Yes the headers are ceramic coated, I had them done last fall by a local shop.

    There is silicone above and below the line a larger one of up for the tension screw and a thinner one at the bottom made form Sugru. Anywhere I have metal to metal contact there is either nylon or rubber.

    Thanks for the lighter fluid tip, I usually use MEK or diluted acetone.

    Graham - thanks for the gasket tip, I'll keep that in mind.
     
  13. Nice attention to detail. And I like the color. I'd opt for a tri power intake but that's just me
     
    falcongeorge likes this.
  14. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 7,579

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    Nice, I just recently repainted mine (after installing baffles), was thinking of having them ceramic coated but went with paint. I like the way your's look, I may need to do that.
    Nice! As good as it all looks I should've figured you had something there, just couldn't see anything, it looked like metal on metal. Good job.
     
    Probesport likes this.
  15. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,339

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    IMHO, the beige is a WAY better fit with the maroon anyway. ;)
     
    rtp likes this.
  16. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,428

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

  17. I did fix the carbs, that was the catalyst for the entire project.
     
    Petejoe likes this.
  18. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,546

    stimpy

    well your first mistake was using leaker green ! :D maybe the cummins beige will stop the leaking problem ( and make it smoke less)

    as for paint you have to be carefull as there are 2 shades of detroit green , one is almost pontiac blue , the other is the alpine green , and there both labeled as such , the proper is #1618 , we buy ours from the detroit dealer as he has cases of it .
     
  19. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,587

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    This might be the wrong forum to put this out there but the three best sounds (engine)in the world is: y block ford, SBC with a Duntov 3030 cam or a Detroit Diesel 2 stroke right before shifting to 2nd direct. (Screamin jimmy)

    Flathead is fine, but not that good.
    And the "green grenade"-color is a nice engine color.

    Keep at it, lad. You do nice work
     
    Probesport likes this.
  20. Hey now, I liked my green o_O It was a cheap duplicolor spray they only had one shade of Alpine green. The beige should hold up well, I've used motor coater before and its rock solid.

    I could use some advice on how to hide or at least make look less pronounced the 6-wire weatherpack harness on the frame rain. I have thought about making a leather sleeve or and aluminum cover/housing. Any thoughts?
     
  21. Here is the coating up close and disassembled. I had them done at my good friend Bill's place,. QC Coatings in Shelby Twp MI.

    [​IMG]
     
    Blues4U likes this.
  22. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 32,213

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    must have been sleeping under a rock - don't think that I have ever seen KBS MotorCoater Engine Enamel before - never seen it For Sale in my part of the world
     
  23. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,619

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    Very sanitary... Say, where did you get that coooool 'Y' adaptor??
    Is it aluminum or steel? Please tell me where, and how much? Thanks.
    The 'beige' outweighs the green, in my humble opinion. (green just looks like Gore...)
     
    Probesport likes this.
  24. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,546

    stimpy

    nothing wrong with it , for many years I called it cash green as I made money with them motors of that color ( my O/t shop truck was painted it vs the GM black ) , and the color grows on you after a while ( and its better than the DD silver Ugh ... ... the beige I have to say looks sharp with the body color .

    as for the weather pack cover I would do aluminum as leather absorbs water and also some leaches the tanning acids out when wet and might cause corrosion issues ( the WP are tight but they still ocassionally leak )
     
    Probesport likes this.
  25. I know Cummins beige well, just never thought of it on a rod engine. VERY COOL!!!
     
    Probesport likes this.
  26. Today's update, I started working on a cover for all of the fuel fittings, regulator, and such. Still have a great deal of metalwork to do, but this is the rough shape/idea

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  27. The adapter is steel, I got the slingshot and carbs from Dickster on here a few years back.
     
  28. STUNNING DETAIL JOB!
     
    Probesport likes this.
  29. Removed the cowl to cleanup some of the wiring that goes to the engine bay, and a few miscellaneous things while im in there.

    The before's

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    After some wire cleanup, lacing, rerouting, and general cleaning. It's not as dressed out as the engine bay, but it's rarely seen. At least that's my justification for not spending a week in there :)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    and how it sits this morning.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2016
  30. Thanks to all for the compliments, it helps to know that I am on the right track with where I am trying to take this car.
     
    Ron Funkhouser likes this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.