I had my new windshield gl*** taken out of the '36 and had it resealed, so the gl*** is now water tight. But the frame apparently is still the biggest cause of the leaking. It was leaking pretty bad this weekend. After it stopped raining, I took a small screw driver and pulled out the rubber so it fit right, but it still leaks. This "fix" is of course not really going to help much, cause I crank out the window everytime I drive it in the summer and the rubber goes back to the shape it wants to be. When I have it cranked down as tight as I can, I can still push in on the edges of the frame on the left and right side... about 1/16". Anyone else had this problem and how did you fix it? Again, sealing the frame to the body for good will never be an option.
I dunno,,,I guess it's something I have learned to live with,,, My 32 mor-door has always leaked,,,and my right foot is always wet from the drip when it rains,,,,not from the cowl vent,,,it never leaks,,,,, I have tried to stop it and just like you it will never be glued in,,,,,HRP
Try and loosen the top hinges, push it closed as tight as it will go and then tighten the screws/bolts up again. It didnt completely cure my sealing problem but it's 99% better......if that doesnt work then dont drive it in the rain.
I loosened the hinge from the body......thats the only adjustment on my pickup at the top. I'm not sure if the Coupes work that way but it's a good bet that it's pretty much the same thing.
Not familiar with how the seal is installed this is just a wild guess at a fix so dont be mad if it doesn't make any sense. Could you possibly take the seal out and go to the hardware and get some thin adhesive backed rubber like what goes around doors for weatherstripping (you would probably have to trim the width to fit) and put it in before you put your seal in to build up the thickness of your original seal? A litle 3M weatherstrip adhesive would hold your seal to the house door rubber I imagine. If it seals when you pull it out and then goes back in when the windshield is cranked in it just seems you could build it up to get it to seal at least better. Just a thought!
My 37 has a 3/16" drain hole with a tube stubbed into it on each lower corner of the windshield opening. These are connected to vaccuum lines that run down through the body. It's not completely the answer but it does help. I also try to avoid driving in the rain.
My 37 leaks too. If its leaking badly a new seal could be an option. Those windshields aren't that hard to remove to replace it. Leaks or no, Thats the best idea any car maker ever came up with. Bugs taste good! No A/C needed with a crank out.
So all '37s have a drain hole on either side? The cowl vent has a drain hose, which I have hooked up. The rubber seal is new too. It took forever to put on. I can see the in the reflection of the windsheild frame, the water puddling in the body opening in the corner.
Chad, I too would try to loosen the top swing hinges.. also a a bit of weather stripping.. Is she leaking from the top or bottom?
I have had to frequently trouble shoot windshield leak problems so this might get you in the right direction. Now don't take this as a sales pitch for a new windshield outer gasket but if it is about 4-5 years old it is about time for a new one. The biggest problem I have found in discussions with customers is that they had failed to realize that there are 2 adjustment points. There is an adjustment for vertically positioning the frame in the windshield opening and there is an other adjustment for spacing the frame inward or outward to the window opening. Both of these adjustments are accessed by removing the windshield header. Before attempting any adjustment you should scribe a line around both fixtures to establish a reference line for adjustment. To adjust the 35/6 windshield, first loosen the windshield frame bracket to windshield hinge screws and slowly roll the windshield closed. Doing this sort of self centers the frame in the windshield opening. Check to see if the windshield is centered in the opening and that the windshield seal is contacting the body. Snug down the bracket to hinge screws. Now check the adjustment in/outward. Loosen the screws that hold the hinges to the body. If they are properly adjusted and the windshield centered correctly the hinge will not move. If they are slightly out of adjustment they with take a new set position. Now from the out side check to see that the frame is tight to the body and the windshield gasket is setting flush to the body with no pinches. Adjust if necessary, retighten the screws. The operation of the windshield should now be checked to insure that it rolls in and out smoothly, under no conditions should excessive pressure be applied to the windshield regulator to make the gasket seal, this indicates and out of adjustment situation. At this time you should also check the lower edge seal, if it appears to be to a gap or the gasket is not tight to the body the windshield regulator may require adjustment also. In some case they are installed to far forward and even in the closed position do not retract enought to get the frame to seal tightly on the lower edge. This you want to avoid as it requires the removal of the dashboard to access the screws. It may be necessary to check this a couple times but this should cure most windshield adjustment problems. It is the same procedure for any 32-39 ford and many other makes also. There may be some additional fitting required with chopped windshields but this will depend upon the chop and the workmanship at the window opening. Hope this helps some.
Another thing: There is a HUGE range of variation in quality of repro rubber stuff for Fords, variation both in fit and in durability of rubber. You may have a seal that was never much good and is now petrified into a wrong shape... I would suspect that **** S knows what's what out there and sells the good stuff. If you are going in for an adjustment, might as well replace the rubber with a known live player at the same time.
If you end up needing a new seal on the outside edge, I have found Dennis Carpenter parts to fit well and seal tightly. But, they do have a bit of memory, so you will need to make sure they don't fold in too much after you open and close the frame each time. I guess if they didn't have memory they wouldn't seal good.
The seal is the main culprit. I had a 50 year old stock seal that sealed up better than the one I got from Obsolete Ford. I am buying a new seal from someone a little more reputable this time around.
Yes the 37's have a hole at the corners on both sides of the opening. Drain hoses should be attached to these too. I too suspect the outer seal fit. My wifes the official drip chaser with towel in hand when we are on the road.
for some unknown reason, I have never found a reproduction part that was superior or even equal to the factory original. seems like if you had an original part and wanted to copy it exactly and add modern technology it could be better than a 40-60 year old part. Gaskets and seals are different because natural rubber doesn't grow on trees anymore I guess!
I remember my 36 having drain holes in the corners of the body. Mine were plugged with dirt. Poke around with an awl in the corners of the W/S opening. Look underneath for ******s in the corners. A hose is slipped onto the ****** from underneath after you get it rodded out and runs out through a hole in the side of the cowl hidden by the hood sides when they are closed. Of course this takes away the water after it gets past the W/S seal. I think Henry planned on a little leakage. It's not a special hose so it doesn't seem to be listed in the old Ford parts repro books.
You got that right! Stay away from Obsolete Ford Parts in Oklahoma City! They have changed names but not their deceptive policies. If you get backordered (because they will NOT refund) and do not spend the 'credit' within a year, THEY KEEP YOUR MONEY!
The biggest problem I've had is that when the windshield is cranked open the top corners of the windshield seal would fold back toward the body. When the corners flip back they would release from the frame entirely. The rubber had memory and wanted to remain straight. The cure was using some rubber cement to hold the seal onto the frame. I also had to force a short length of cord (like window blind cord) between the top of the frame and the seal at the corners. This keeps the seal oriented correctly so it seals and doesn't flip back.
I guess Henry knew what he was doing........theres a reason there are so many of those old cars still on the road after all these years.
Dennis Carpenter and Bob Drake have been the leaders in rubber products for over 30 years. Think about it. **** Spadaro's procedure for adjusting windshield frames should be memorized by any early Ford V8 closed car/pickup owner. Thanks, man.
Mine (the leaky one) is a Bob Drake seal. After I hooked up the drain hoses and found my "missing" holes in the corners it helped. I never did try to adjust the windshield though. The bigger culprit is the ****ty cowl vent seal, also Bob Drake. It ****S. It was pretty old though. I should order a new one.
Lifespan for rubber products is 3-5 years if the car is outside and driven on a regular basis especially in the hot South and Southwest. Cowl vent gaskets should be installed on 32-48 Fords with the flat side up. The curved side matches the gutter for agood fit. Many people install them backwards, top and bottom wise.
Chad, you found the drain holes I see. I was gonna tell you that my sedan had them, too late. I had the same problem with my windshield on the sedan so I got some thick foam weatherstrip( about 3/4 inch ) and ran it all the way along the bottom of the windshield pinch weld / channel and about 1/3 rd up the sides. this effectively sealed up the opening and I get absolutely no water in thru the shield even at 70 mph in a driving rain.I tried to adjust the frame like **** S. said but could never get it to fit correctly, it almost seems that its binding at the top but the hinges are out as far as they will go. Hence the use of the foam !! My cowl vent seals up pretty good , most of the leakage runs thru the drain tube and out intothe engine bay. All of my seals came from Drake and are 15 years old, still nice and soft. Mike.
I used Bob Drake stuff on the big 35, 1.5 ton and it was the only thing to stop the leaking. We threw away another brand of seal.
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