leaving a Steel Body RAW? Tips??

I am planning on leaving a '30 A body in its Raw Form.. don't want to paint it opaque. Dont want to cover up that great steel. Its pretty humid around here , It could rust away pretty fast. I know a few folks are starting to Go Raw ... Choppers too.
I originally got the idea from My BMX "freestyle" Bike.. I have had my bike raw for years. My S&M frame is raw with a Amber Clear coat.

Whats the trick for a good Clear coat? Fool proof way to get it to stick? any help would be great. I need to make this happen. just don't want to go into it blind. Thanks

 

Fish PM Lukester he can tell ya what to do, he ran his truck like that!

 

search: Gibbs

 

i know alot of cali folks just wipe down their cars with tranny fluid.. won't work if you are in an area with high humidity.

don't know anything about using clear paint.. i guess it's possible if you can get it to bite into the bare metal..

honestly you'll be better off painting it..

 

Some use WD40 , but if you rub aginst it it gets all over everthing. I've heard nothing but good things about Gibbs. I bought some for my roadster, but haven't applied it yet, so I can't tell you for sure how it works. I have the same humidity problem here in WI.

Roadster.com is a hamber here who swears by it. Here's a link:

http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/

Later

 

Use Picklex-20.

I'd be careful not to use anything that's not easy to paint over later.

--Matt

 

I have alot of antique traps that were treated with wax... just boiled and dipped. I think the boiling is just to eliminate odor, however. They have a great patina but don't ever rust.

Makes me wonder what would happen if a guy just rubbed a bare or rusty body down with warm/melted wax...?


JOE

 

Gibbs. Here's the deal though:

There's going to be some places that are a real bitch to get to. Use some POR 15, primer, whatever on those areas. Door jambs, etc. Other than that, just apply Gibbs every now and then and it'll work out.

 

They make clear powdercoating. Was thinking of using that on my bobber project, but haven't spoken with anyone w/ firsthand experience. Anyone know if that gets discolored or how it holds up???

 

I've tried it. It works much better than paint clear coat, due to there being no pores when it dries, allowing moisture to the metal. That said, you're screwed if you get a chip. That chip eventually rusts and you have to get the part blasted and start over. Blasting powdercoating off isn't fun.

 

I like "Starrett M1" - I think it's like Gibbs.

http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bin/scripts/product/8480-0004

 

How does pb blaster compare to the gibbs stuff?

 

cool info. I can't imagine the oil working for me? does that Gibbs stuff penatrate the steel or just sit on top?Wouldnt every speck of dust stick to the oil? I imagine I would need a good Clear coat. I thought about PowderCoating... That would be great. the one problem is.. I can't do it myself. I imagine the co$t is HIGH? any Rough estimates of what it would cost to Powder coat a body? I'll call around here in Austin.


what about any types of Clear Primer? any experience?

 

the note about powder coating is true.. its very difficult to get off and requires a very aggresive media.. if you ever wanted or had to remove it you'd definitely have a hard time, you'd also probably damage the steel underneath (at the very lease erode the heck out of it)..

The finish of the powder coating probably won't give you the look you're going for either...

what about those clear coatings that people use on top of wheels and polished aluminums? Eastwood sells something.. might be an idea

 

Seriously man, use Gibbs. If that goof who is building the '36 below for Kirk Hammet uses it to prevent rust, it must be OK

 

Did anyone mention Picklex?
Someone should have.

 

Gibbs is not an oil. It's a penetrant, the first ever I believe.
It treats the metal and interfere's with the chemical bond between Fe and O2 required to form rust (or so I've been told)

Alot of the master sheetmetal shapers and car customizers swear by it.


rjb

 

Any one know how often gibbs would need to be resprayed? high maintaince stuff or does it last a long time? sounds to good to be true?

I'm looking around the net for some now.......

Does it feel and look wet? or is it wiped off after it penetrates?

I imagine gibbs will give me a true Raw look.

 

WD40 is bad. It will keep the metal clean OK, but if you ever decide to put paint on it will be a nitemare.

WD40 has silicone. Silicone is the enemy.

 

Gibbs will need to be applied fairly regularly to ensure no rust. Let's say a good coat once every couple months. More if the car gets wet a lot, less if it doesn't.

It's a little greasy when you put it on, but just use a clean rag to rub it in and it's fine. Smells nice too.

Now shut up and buy a damn can before I hunt you down and kill you for dragging this damn topic out About $20 from Roadsters.com A can will treat your entire car a few times, I'd say.

 

I found the Gibbs at Roadster.com. I'm still hoping someone has a good "clear coat idea? I do imagine Powder coating may give me a wierd look , i'm not going for. Maybe I can do a TEST piece?

So Its down to a "clear" or "Gibbs" coat..... any clear coat will chip or scratch (A.K.A) RUST. Any other info will still be great. I would Love a Slight Amber Clear coat. I just need to be sure it sticks.
Thanks for the heads up on Gibbs , I'm ordering some and give it a Test on some parts. Hmmm, I could also use it on Guitar amplifier Transformers? Those things love to rust.

I know I'm Beating a Dead Horse, modern Clear coat experience?

 

I have a bodyshop and I've used clear that was designed for wheels on small bare metal pieces I can't remember who makes it but it worked well I also used some adhesion promoter under it.